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Bleeding This Damn Clutch.


Hahnsb2

Well-Known Member
TRS Banner 2010-2011
Joined
Aug 8, 2007
Messages
4,416
Age
36
City
Battle Ground WA
Vehicle Year
88-95
Transmission
Manual
Brand new slave, fairly new MC, I can't get the last little bir of air out of this damn thing. Just ever so slight sponge in the pedal and barely able to go in gear shifting is also a bitch. Unable to find any leaks or see the slave lose any pressure while the pedal is held down. Normally what's worked for me is using a syringe and hooking the line up and forcing brake fluid down, I've tried that several times as well as gravity bleeding and pumping the pedal with the bleeder open and it doesn't get any better. It's almost there but not quite, anyone have any tips?
 
Just installed everything?

Drive the phucker, the '83-92 master cylinder will "self bleed" in
a day or two of normal driving.

attempting to bleed it in the driveway is nothing more than self-torture.
Of course you miught like that squishy sound your head makes
as you continue to bang it against the wall, but...

what's far worse is attempting to bleed a '93-up clutch master
cylinder after it's installed... "hopeless" is the word that springs to mind




AD
 
I sure hope so, I've only put about 50 miles on it so far but I've tried bleeding it a few times in between.
 
Whenever I bleed mine I always run a length of vaccum hose from the bleeder valve into the reservoir then crack the bleeder open and have an assistant pump away until the fluid runs clear when recycling through the hose.

Just make sure the reservoir does'nt run dry. This ALWAYS works for me.




Allen
 
I've also found that a small amount of air left in the line eventually dissipates on it's own if the clutch can still work in the meantime (both on my '90 and '94).

Agreed, just start driving it.
 
When i had the clutch done in my ranger i found out that someone didnt bleed the thing right either.. What me and my buddies ended up doin was liftin the front end with a forklift of all things and then, perhaps because of the angle, it went alright. But we tried jus bleedin it at ground level and got no where, so try bleeding it with the truck's front end lifted off the ground about 2 ft.. this could be a lil difficult with your truck hehehe
 
If it's 4x4 you could always perch the front end on top of a giant boulder!
 
I'd simply pull the master off the firewall and disconnect the slave. You'll need to remove the clutch switch too. Take it all to the bench (after you snake the line out from the truck).

Hang the reservoir up high, then orient the master upside down from how it mounts in the firewall. Have the QD positioned above the master, but below the reservoir.

Use a screwdriver blade to "open" the QD while someone depresses the master, just like you would bleed brakes. Close the QD before the asst. makes the full stroke so it doesn't suck air.

Put it back in and enjoy. Shouldn't need to bleed the slave after that procedure as long as you "snap" the QD back together sharply in one smooth stroke.
 
i unbolt MC from firewall, turn it so the line is at the top (upside down) and hand bleed. Reinstall and all is better
 
When i had the clutch done in my ranger i found out that someone didnt bleed the thing right either.. What me and my buddies ended up doin was liftin the front end with a forklift of all things and then, perhaps because of the angle, it went alright. But we tried jus bleedin it at ground level and got no where, so try bleeding it with the truck's front end lifted off the ground about 2 ft.. this could be a lil difficult with your truck hehehe
Funny you should mention that, I tried parkin both driver side tires on car ramps in an attempt to get the bleeder higher up.
You'll need to remove the clutch switch too.
That was removed long ago :secret:
All interesting ideas in here, I may have to try them if it doesn't self bleed in a few days. Thanks
 
Fucking christ. I was driving to my buddies house, shifting into second I push the clutch, halfway down then BAM straight to the floor, fucking line popped out of the slave! After driving a fucking week and getting all the air out now I have to start all over again. These hydraulic clutches are going to make me snap and kill people someday.
 
try this, its what i did on our 89 and my 94.....

When you get it all put together, open the bleeder screw about a half to a full turn, then slam the pedal to the floor as fast as you can and let up. Then close the bleeder screw, pump the hell out of the pedal for about 20-30 seconds, then crack the bleeeder screw and let it gravity bleed for a few minutes. Close it off, pump the hell out of it again, then open th bleeder and let it gravity bleed. Like i said, it sounds wierd, and ill admit i was skeptical too the first time i heard it., but it works wonders for bleeding a new slave or a new line.
 
If the fitting popped out of the slave and the line is still intact then you shouldn't have a hard time bleeding it when you get it back together. It should stay bled from the master cylinder down to the fitting on the end of the line because it has a valve in it that shuts when you disconnect it and bleeding just the slave is cake. What I would worry about is WHY it popped out.
 

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