bleeding brakes

[swynx]

No this is not a how to bleed my brakes.

Was trying to bleed them today. But all the brake bleeders were rusted. On 3 of 4 wheel ive had to pull out the brake bleeder and clean out the hole. Then it would bleed. But only after i pulled the screw out so far that it just let in air around the threads.

Bought some more brake fluid and 4 new bleeders. Should I completely drain the old fluid out? I had alot of dark rusted looking fluids coming out. Even with the new fluid.

On the back i had to remove the screw and push the metal in all the way then something popped and fluid started draining. I have yet to open it up and check it out.

Any suggestions.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yes to draining all the old fluid out. Brake fluid likes water and absorbs it from the air causing rust in the lines.

Richard

 

[Road Angels]

I know you dont want to hear this but if you got rust coming out, after the intial flow then things need to get replaced, some of the rust will be from around the bleeder valve witch you would expect with rusted valves but any thing after that is not good, if your lining are close to being shot then may as well dive in, sometimes, draining the mud out will cause them to leak, cause the crap is keeping them sealed up, my 86 the fluids are like glue I know if I change it out its going to leak after wards, its really a flip of a coin, well do you feel lucky, well do you. hope this gives some in sight

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'd rather find a leak than have a line blow out.

Richard

 

[swynx]

Pedal touches the floor when trying to stop. So I don't really have a choice. After I ran about a 1/4 of a large bottle threw each wheel they stopped putting out rust. All of the bleeders were rusted shut pretty good. I had no idea that brake fluid attracted water. Any thing I could add in with the brake fluid while I empty the lines to aid in anything?

 

[snake]

Not really. Just use the proper DOT (probably DOT3) and flush it good. Then add it to your maintenance list, flush it every 5 years or so. I usually flush it when I do my radiator maintenance about every 5.

 

[bmerr98]

As long as you're in there you might think about replacing wheel cylinders and any flex hoses too. Pretty inexpensive and definitely prone to the elements under there.

 

[exbass94]

I flush my brake fluid every few years as regular maintenance.
Always use a fresh, unopened bottle of brake fluid. Never use a bottle that's been sitting for a few months with the seal broken, even if it had the cap on it. Once a bottle is opened, it starts absorbing moisture. Open a fresh bottle, use what you need to use, and dispose of the rest.

 

[97RangerXLT]

x2 on the wheel cylinders. they are so cheap that I put them as part of the brake job. I hate doing rear brakes and it is worth the extra 20 bucks for a pair of wheel cylinders to not have to tear into the brakes again in a year or so due to a leaking wheel cylinder. I would imagine that if you have that much rust on the bleeder valves, the wheel cylinders are probably pitted internally as well.

flex hoses I usually inspect and if they are not dry rotted or the metal hardware on them is not rusted, and there are no other issues with the brakes (just a pad/ shoe change) I leave them alone. but if they are original to the truck, it might be worth it, especially with the issues you are having.

AJ

 

[cvar]

Some good Brake Fluid info: http://www.aa1car.com/library/bfluid.htm

 

[swynx]

I flush my brake fluid every few years as regular maintenance.
Always use a fresh, unopened bottle of brake fluid. Never use a bottle that's been sitting for a few months with the seal broken, even if it had the cap on it. Once a bottle is opened, it starts absorbing moisture. Open a fresh bottle, use what you need to use, and dispose of the rest.

This explains the rust. The previous owner had a bottle of stop brake fluid under the hood for atleast the last 2 years. All the letters and what not had deteriorated off the bottle it was under there so long. When I got the truck I went to use it but noticed it looked like vanilla oil and water. I haven't bought any thing for the rear brakes yet.

Thanks for the help

 

[Road Angels]

The system its self will take on water cause there is a vent in the master cylinder cap,and parts condense in hot to cold climate changes witch makes for h20, some shops do a litmus test for water in the fluid when you buy a large bottle of fluid there is a large air gap at the top, there not vacuumed sealed or the bottle would be sucked in, as long as the bottle is kept warm and dry then there ok to use for topping off, if you have ever done any bleeding with a pressure bleed you know your not going to dump out the gallon of fluid for every job

 

[tmcalavy]

Best way to flush one is to put it on blocks, open all four wheel drains and keep fresh fluid in it until gravity does the job for you...keep a container under each wheel of course to catch the flush junk. Takes some patience but it's the only way to get all the crud out...use store fresh fluid. When you get good, clean fluid at each wheel, start closing the wheel drains just like when you bleed it...right pass. rear, drivers rear, pass. front, drivers front. From what you describe tho, I'd go through each wheel first and replace the rusty sheet...all of it...if you kill somebody on the road cause you can't stop you'll be paying for the rest of your life...in more ways than one.

 

[Andy D]

Yah your 94 is likely to have crunchy brake lines. Mine did. Brake lines are fairly easy to replace. For a novice it, is prolly best to start out with pre made lengths and unions, (couplings) You just gotta do them end to end. 3/16 brake lines are cheap and pretty easy to work with. find both ends and cut the lines off flush with the fitting. Now, you can use a 6 point socket, instead getting a premium quality line wrench , because a cheap one is a waste. In order not to mess up the ABS, you have to keep the MC full, so buy a couple qts of DOT3 . By the time you get the system tight, it will be gravity bled.