bleeding ABS brakes

[jcap]

1994 B2300 rear anti-lock brakes

The Haynes and internet searches all say there is a bleeder on the abs valve inside the drivers side frame rail. I dont see any conventional bleeder screw on it. There does appear to be a large nut (7/8ths) with a hole in the middle, is that a bleeder? I replaced the steel line going into the valve as well as the master . I bled the master as well as the line going in the ABS valve but cant get any fluid going out of the valve. I had no lights before the repair and now i have a constant brake light as well as abs light. That valve is very expensive, can it be eliminated? I hate to mess with brake engineering! And as my luck would have it I am outside on jack stands and the rain just started!

Thanks for any help!

Yes its my first post, I have been using this great site without joining since i got the truck a few months ago, you guys have already been a wealth of info, again thanks

Jim

 

[jcap]

I did crack open that large nut on the rear ABS valve to see if it was a bleeder and did not get any fluid or air from it, I also cracked the right rear wheel cylinder as well as the left rear and no air or fluid

 

[martin]

Many guys have by-passed it, as have I.

 

[jcap]

Thank you for the reply.
I think I will remove it and see if I can disassemble/clean before I decide to eliminate it. I have not found a new replacement for under $300.00. I was still hoping on an answer regarding the Haynes instructions on bleeding and specifically the statement "the bleeder valve on the rear-wheel anti-lock brake valve". Somebody must have a real shop manual ? Is there a bleeder valve on the RABS valve in a 1994 B2300 ? Anybody?

Thank you
Jim

 

[Mazda]

You need to start your bleed at the master. Loosen the rear tube to the RABS module and bleed that first then move down to the RABS module. The large nut id the bleeder. It will take a lot of pumps from the pedal to get some fluid out of it. Then move to the passenger rear and then the driver rear wheel.

Also that part is only about 160.00 from rock auto. You have to pay a 50.00 core charge but you will get that back when you send in the bad one, taking the price down to 120.00 or so. Part number 122029.

Bryan

 

[cvar]

Info about your RABS: http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes_rwal.htm

 

[jcap]

Thanks for the replies,
Bryan, yes I see the part in Rock auto great find thanks. However, the large nut is NOT a bleeder at all. In fact, if you look at the great diagram in the link from CVAR you will see that large nut retains the spring for the accumulator chamber. There should never be fluid coming out that nut. If there is fluid coming out that nut, the seal on the accumulator piston has failed. There is NO bleeder on that valve. If the plunger/piston of one of the solenoids sticks in the wrong position no fluid will pass through the valve no matter how many times you pump the pedal. The Haynes 1993 thru 2010 Ranger repair manual erroneously mentions a bleeder valve. Maybe that info will save someone from trying to bleed a frozen valve for hours like I did! After doing the research on the system I chose to remove the valve and run a new line from the master right to the rear hose.

Consider this case closed

Bryan, thanks again for the RockAuto part number and Cvar, thanks for the great link.

Jim