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Bleed the clutch problems (Need Help ASAP)


rypp77

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2008
Messages
17
City
Houston
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
96 Ranger 2.3, 5 speed

I put in a new clutch, flywheel, slave, master, trans line. Everything is together, but I can't get the clutch to disengage all the way. I have bleed the clutch like brakes, with no luck. I have bleed the clutch by popping the pedal, no luck.

I had a friend pump the pedal and I can hear air from the trans line. I can see air coming out when its is being press.

This is the second trans line I have placed on it.
The first one (the original factory), kept popping out when I press in the clutch.
The second, got it from the dealership, I can hear air and see air coming out when I pull fluid about the connector.

I'm running out of things I can do to fix this, this has been a two month project getting my truck back on the road.

I'm about to sell the damn thing as parts if I don't get it running.
 
These things do have the potential to be a PITA to bleed properly.

I've found two ways that work. Pumping the pedal like they say in the book almost never works.

1. Wait overnight. Fill the clutch fluid reservoir, pump the pedal a couple of times, then wait overnight with everything tightened up. Sometimes a few hours will work. I don't understand it, but somehow it worked for me. Come back, and it works.

2. Use suction. Instead of pumping the pedal, hook up a vacuum pump to the bleed screw. Pull a vacuum, then crack open the bleed screw, and close it again. That should work.
 
Still need to know if I should be hearing air escaping from the connecter and trans line.

I will try to find a vacumn line to see if I can get it work.
 
Air from the trans / slave connection isn't good. That connection should be sealed tight, or air will also suck back in when you release the pedal.

When I replaced my clutch master, I bought one that was pre-bled.
 
Sounds like you arent getting a good seal in your slave connection. Pull the line out and check the bore for scoring on the o-ring sealing surface....also check the o-ring on the fitting to make sure you didnt chop it. Once you figure out how to solve the leak issue, you need to unbolt the master from the fire wall and tip it slightly upwards and pump it by hand, the design traps air in the master that will never come out unless you angle it upwards to allow the bubbles to escape. I also take a clear tube and run it from the bleeder up into the reseviour and pump a million times till i see no bubbles in the tube.
 
I was having the same problem.....I couldn't get the air out for the life of me :( I ended up taking the adapter for filling up footballs, basketballs, for my air compressor and regulated it around 30 PSI. I had a spare clutch resevoir lid so I poked a tiny hole in it, enough that the adapter nozzle just fit snug, and held a rag on top...I stuck that lid on, and the hose into it and had someone open the bleeder screw for me...squeezed air through, and then had them shut the screw...did that a couple times after pumping it, and repeating, and I have a stiff pedal again! :) it is a very PITA, I did the same thing you did...took a month at least trying to figure out. good luck hoping it works out for ya :)
 
You should not hear air of see fluid or air coming out of the quick connect coupling at the transmission slave connector. Your problem is there.
Uncouple the connector and inspect that O ring. I would replace it even if it looks good, but you may have a tiny nick in it. Also, the white plastic sleeve that locks the connector in place. If it looks chewed up, replace it. Go to the Precision Clutch website as I think they sell the O ring and plastic sleeve. I suspect your plastic sleeve or O ring is not working right and you have a leak there. You will never bleed the system if you have a leak at the "quick connect" coupler, as the service manual calls it. If all else fails, the entire pressure hose can be purchased. It will have a new O ring and plastic ring. But that means removing the master cylinder to tap out the roll pin to get the top end of the hose off, and that means bleeding the master, not an easy or fun job. If you were going to replace the pressure hose, then I suggest buy a new master. Its only about 45 bucks. Bench bleed like it is shown on the Utube video put up by Perfection Clutch and you will have it licked.
 
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