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bike guys


509lifted

Well-Known Member
Firefighter
Joined
Nov 12, 2011
Messages
997
Age
31
City
chelan washington
Vehicle Year
1984,1992
Transmission
Manual
ok so im going to look at a bike tomorrow its a 83 vt500 ascot with the vtwin and i was wondering if i get it is there a way to upgrade the suspention on these things
 
The rear shocks are easily replaced with something more modern, Progressive Suspension is a good place to start for shocks. Twin rear shocks are super easy to remove and replace.

http://www.progressivesuspension.com

The forks are just plain damper rod variety, but they can also be upgraded. There is a guy who is independant, that could probably help you with the forks, if you took them off and shipped them to him. Jamie Daugherty. He primarily works on Hondas, mostly V-4 Interceptors, but the Ascot forks would be no problem for him to work on.

http://www.daughertymotorsports.com/

Depending on your weight and riding style, you might wish to go with stiffer springs, as the stockers are probably a little soft, and meant for a 150 lb rider.


Here is a direct link to the Progressive page with shocks for the 83 Ascot:

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/prodSearchResults.aspx?yearID=1983&makeID=40&modelID=960
 
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The Ascot was a nice bike. Glad to see you are using your head and just getting a nice older machine. Before blowing a wad of cash on it pull a thorough maintenance on it. Change the front fork oil, go over the electrics, make sure the brakes are up to snuff as stopping is very important. On a ride of that age the exhaust system will probably be the first thing to go when you get it running.

Post pics.
 
When refreshing this older machine, all electrical connectors should be cleaned and sealed with dielectric grease.

Virtually every connector is available, should you need to replace any.

Some go to the extreme and de-pin each plug, then solder over the original crimp connection and repin. Some replace each pin (soldered).

The very minimum is to disconnect/reconnect each connector repeatedly (including single wire bullet type) to scrub a bright contact surface. Seal with dielectric grease.

I use a narrow strip of folded 400 grit and scrub the female spade ones. I roll 400 grit to do the inside bores of the female bullet type.

I agree you should concentrate on the brakes. My minimum is dismount each caliper, fully extend and scrub each piston. Fully seat and re-extend each piston at least twice with bleeder closed, then fully retract pistons and flush out all fluid. Each master should also be purged and flushed with new fluid. Clean the return hole. You'll see cruddy fluid contaminate the new fluid with each piston stroke. You want that to flow clear.

I'd also check the date code on the tires. Replace if over 5 years old.

Old bikes can be a money pit.....but fun to wrench on!
 
thanks guys i will look in to him veefer im 210 and im turning it into a bober after a while but not for 6 months, and panama and earl it is actually clean and runs the thing only has 2200 miles
 
hopefully it's been stored indoors.

check the rubber brake lines for cracking and dry rot, as well as the tires.
 
i went and took a test ride and i gotta say the thing is great for the year and me being 210lbs the suspension didnt sag at all, it dosent run right which i have worked out to dirty carbs or needs to be rejetted cause you can feather the throttle and go but if you try to just gun it it bogs out and tries to die, it does have minnor wear and tear but other than that the bike is great and im gonna cash in some of my bonds and see if he will take a down payment to hold it till i can get both these jobs worked out
 
Doesn't need rejetted.... Just a good thorough cleaning. If Honda does anything it is build bike right... Especially during those years. That bike will take you a lot of miles if you just take good care of it.

Keep the BEST motor oil you can in it. The Honda V-twins of that age were kind of like the v6 Ford motors and have top end lubrication issues. If you do not keep the oil and filter changed REGULARLY they tend to eat rockers and cams.

I have a 750 Saber and a 450 Rebel of similar vintage in the back. One of these days I¡ll do something with them.... Maybe.
 
Gonna go with the dirty carbs theory. Extremely common for bikes which have been stored a long time, and not had the carbs prepped prior to storage.

They'll need a thorough disassembly and cleaning of all the jets and passageways, then probably synchronized once the bike is running better.
 
its gonna need a rejet anyways because im doing different exhaust on it since i dont like the raspy sound up around 5-6k rpms and yea panama i read that, and knowing me i change oil like a crazy person when it comes to my transportation and only use top of the line oil. I really like this bike and already have 300 worth of aftermarket parts on my mind. oh and panama if you dont already know oldbikebarn.com has great prices on parts for these old bikes
 
Oh and check the date code on the tire sidewalls.

If the tires are the same age as the bike, I'll bet they are hard as rocks.

Today's tires are much better for handling and traction than they were 30 years ago.
 
they are in good shape but can you tell me the difference between the performace of a kenda challenger over an s11 or whatever its called
 
kenda = super cheap Taiwanese tires = junk. A $59 tire is $59 for a reason. Spend the extra $30 for a quality tire.

the Bridgestone S11 is definetly a better quality tire. It is not even listed on the Bridgestone website anymore, so I am assuming it is very old and discontinued.

if the tires are over 5 years, I personally would not ride on them. Fresh rubber does a world of good for a motorcycle's handling and braking characteristics.

modern tires, fresh from the oven, have better rubber compounds and carcass construction and tread design than tires of yesteryear, and will offer better braking grip, and cornering, as well as steering feel.

far better than anything that was available back in 1983 (back when the original tires were new), and a shit ton better than old, possibly cracked and hardened tires.

You should be able to swing a set of fresh name brand buns for about $200-250 for the pair


I personally love Michelin tires, and the Pilot Activ would be a great choice for your bike.

You could also possibly move up one tire size front and rear, assuming you have the room inside the front fender, and also where the shaft drive is closest to the rear tire.

your stock tire sizes are 100/90-18 front and 120/80-18 rear.

You could possibly go with a 110/90-18 front and 130/80-18 rear.

http://m.michelinmotorcycle.com/tires/street/pilot-activ.html


The Dunlop GT501 is also a good choice, though they are only available in the stock sizes:

http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/tire-catalog/road/street/gt501/


And in Bridgestone, the BT45 is also an excellent choice:

http://www.bridgestone.com/products/motorcycle_tires/products/battlax/bt45.html
 
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for online tire price comparison, try these for starters:

http://www.jakewilson.com

http://www.swmototires.com

http://www.derbycycles.com/

Lastly, tire pressures are vastly more important on a bike than a car or truck. Be sure they are inflated right to Honda's spec. Underinflated tires on a bike are super dangerous, plus they make the bike handle like a wheelbarrow full of wet cement.

Post up a pic when you get her all cleaned up!
 
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oh, sorry to Post ho, but I just checked SWmoto tires and the Michelin Pilot Activ are on sale right now, 35% off, but only for another week. and free CONUS shipping

but do check the other places listed above, just in case. I'm off to bed, so you're on your own, LOL

they come in H and V speed ratings, H (130MPH)would be more than adequate for the Ascot

the V rated tires (149MPH) are more money. And if your Ascot can do 149, I'll buy it, LOL.

http://www.swmototires.com/Michelin-PILOT-ACTIV-detail.htm?productId=8346106&ez=Michelin&pos=41
 
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