Big Block Drift Truck - Pic Heavy

[bba952]

Just wanted to start a thread to document my new project. Its a 1991 Ranger Custom 2wd. The plan is to lower it, gut as much as possible, 4 link, put a stock 460 c.i. move the firewall back and engine back around 12 inches, and full roll cage. My only rule is that I want to keep the stock short bed.

The day I went to pick it up

 

[bba952]

Removing the engine

 

[bba952]

Gutted the interior and the frame, grafted a c notch kit for a Silverado to the frame, removed rear window, and started removing the leaf spring perches.

 

[bba952]

Found the rust! I cut out the firewall, inner fenders and core support. ended up making a new core support from some 1in pipe i had laying around.
i also took of the cab to clean the 30 years of dirt and power steering flied from the frame, and painted it flat black. decided to radius the fenders so i wouldn't have to worry about tire rubbing.

 

[bba952]

The axle is a 8.8 with a 3.08 gear. decided to just weld it, paint it and see how long it will last. and i gutted the hood, doors and painted the fenders.

 

[Blmpkn]

F*ck yes.

 

[SenorNoob]

You gonna leave any of the original structure or just rely on the cage?

 

[bba952]

You gonna leave any of the original structure or just rely on the cage?

Just relying on the cage. The cab was only a couple hundred pounds before i cut anything and there isnt any side protection in the doors.

 

[bba952]

Gave myself another rule, the only body work i will do will be with a hammer grinder and welder. ive been welding since 2013 and welding thin rusted metal never looks good. plus the truck purpose is to drift and do dumb stuff so no reason to make it look perfect, just want it water tight.

Flat black spray paint job

 

[bba952]

Not much done today. I cut off the spring perches and shock mounts from the rear axle to make room for the 4-link setup.

 

[bba952]

Here is the engine that will be put into the ranger. its an old Ford 7.5l (460) engine i pulled from my F350. it was still running good, but i had built a carbureted 466 cubic inch to put in the F350.

It didnt need machine work so i just replaced the bearings, opened the oil passages, replaced freeze plugs, installed ARP main and head studs, melling stage 2 cam, and a new coat of paint. i will be using the stock efi heads and manifold, but i will be putting a carburetor on top of this motor too.

 

[bba952]

Finished gutting the doors and spraying with primer

 

[SenorNoob]

You leaving the stock latch and using the outer handle or gonna Dukes of Hazard it?

 

[bba952]

You leaving the stock latch and using the outer handle or gonna Dukes of Hazard it?

For now, I’m keeping the stock latch and outer handle. One of the last steps is installing Lexan windows on the doors and rear. I want them to slide up and down for ventilation, but I’m still figuring out the best way to build the sliding mechanism. Anyone here done sliding Lexan windows on a drift or race build? Looking for ideas or tips!

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

For now, I’m keeping the stock latch and outer handle. One of the last steps is installing Lexan windows on the doors and rear. I want them to slide up and down for ventilation, but I’m still figuring out the best way to build the sliding mechanism. Anyone here done sliding Lexan windows on a drift or race build? Looking for ideas or tips!

I seen a guy at an event that used old seat belts. Latched it to hold them up. Then unlatch to lower. He even left the slide adjustment where he could just vent them. Looked cool and easy. Had it riveted to the bottom of the window and the bottom of the door. Wrapped over the top of the window frame.