• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Best way to run leaf springs, SAS?


out cast

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
427
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Manual
I have a dana 30 I'm gonna throw under my front end. I hardly ever go wheeling, when I do go wheelin, its light. I only plan on running 33's so I don't need the "get a dana 44" comments. Yes, I'm gonna run leaf springs. The same springs I'm running in the back, STOCK Explorer springs. In my opinion, they flex awesome, less to go wrong, and cheap.

My question is should I run a x-member in front, from side to side, so i can run my springs outboard or make a bracket off of the body mounts?

a pic of what i'm talkin about on both accounts. also, I plan on runnin the shackles in the rear of the springs.

X-member route

attachment.php

CIMG0285.jpg


Bracket Path

Brackets off of body mounts

15272left_front_hanger.jpg


Brackets for Spring Hangers

DSC02590.jpg

DSC02614.jpg


Brackets off of frame

774brian_green_003.jpg
 
I'm currently swapping in a Full Width D60, with a dually rim on the front to keep the tires in "roughly" the same place as stock, and plan to go leaf sprung, and the only problem I can forsee with running the spings on the outside of the frame is the tires will hit when you turn the wheel to a full lock. So, with you running a D30, and regular rims (I don't know how much wider/narrower that axle is from stock, you may run into the same problem. I'm planning on hanging mine directly under the frame, I've been studying the front suspension on my Super Duty to see how it's setup, but never looked to see if there was a crossmember in the front, I'm going to be servicing it tomorrow, so I'll make a note to remember to look.
 
the axle is like an inch wider per side. i know i have to run them outboard to keep the perches on the axle tubes. i'm just curious whether i should run them with a x member. i think i probably will so i can space them out a tad more to center tehm on the tubes but i'm still wanting opinions...
 
Well, I looked on my Super Duty earlier today, and it does have a cross member right behind the front air dam, but it is actually under where the eye of the spring mounts, kind of hard to explain unless you see it. After looking at some of your pictures, I kind of like the looks of the way that last one is setup, with the tube running across. I think that is what I'm going to do, but just bolt my mounts directly to the bottom of the frame, instead of welding.

The Super Duty also has the shackles in the rear, and just has a tube welded through the frame for a bolt to pass through, which I also think I am going to use on my Ranger.

I hope this helped you maybe a little bit, but I want to thank you, cause your pictures just helped me finalize how I'm going to mount my springs! :icon_thumby:
 
explorer rear springs are pretty long for a front axle, but you should be able to make them work.

I went out and measured on my ranger, ranger rear leafs are the same length and it looks like to run rear springs up front (56" long) it would put the front mount about even with the front of the frame or maybe just slightly past, and the rear mount would be way farther back than the body mount. but I don't know where the body mount is on an ex. on my rear springs it was 25.5' from center pin to the front eye and 31 fr center to the back eye, which is 56.5", but my srpings are totally flat.

So with 56" springs up front, your mounts probably wont be in the same place as any of those in the pics you posted.

And I would definitely do a front crossmember, it adds strength and makes it so much easier to get the front mounts in at the same angle and spacing. weld the crossmember to the front mounts before you weld it all to the frame and you'll save yourself alot of measureing and double checking later.

as far as spring spacing, just go with what the axle has.
My springs are like half-way under my frame, but I wanted to make the width as narrow as possible, so I put the leaf mounts as close to the pumpkin as I could on my waggy 44. if you're running a d30 with 33's you'll never need to worry about tires hitting the frame.

95XL - on a full width axle, you're gonna have to run the springs outside of the axle. I don't think there is any way to run them under the frame without welding the spring mount on top of the pumpkin

anyway, good luck on your build
 
95XL - on a full width axle, you're gonna have to run the springs outside of the axle. I don't think there is any way to run them under the frame without welding the spring mount on top of the pumpkin

Yeah, I just went out this morning and took some rough measurements, and by my estimates, to center the spring between the pumpkin and the knuckle, the center of the spring would have to be about 4.5" from the outside of the frame. That shoots my whole idea out the window!

Anyways, rokkrawler, I've heard a lot of guys running front 3/4 ton chevy leaves up front, I believe they are about 44" eye to eye, that is what I'm planning on running. And, the same as what slammer said, good luck on your build.
 
i think the chevy springs, by what i heard, are 53" eye to eye. i'm thinkin of runnin that or a wrangler spring but i'd rather have the springs longer for more flex. 4" aint' much to bitch about i guess i could just run the stock rear springs (they are 57" eye to eye)
 
I guess I can chime in.


I put a HP D44 from a bronco in the front of my 00. I tried two different routes for mounting the springs.

Under the chassis brings the leafs further in, giving room for tight ass turning, and great flex because there's more leverage on the spring, and it has to flex less at the spring, but looks like more at the tire.

My rear hangers are just welded near the tranny x member.

My front at first was two hangers welded straight to the chassis and some bracing in between and along the rest of the chassis. It was pretty stout.

My CURRENT set up is a piece of 3x6 square tube with .250" wall. I knotched it so that it snugs up in the chassis about 3". The front hangers are welded and gussetted to that. It's stout, easy, cheap, and easy, and cheap.

As far as springs go:

I'm runnin the 52 or what ever long inch chebbys you talk about. Mine were the rear of a 3/4 ton 2wd. I pulled the over load leaf and 3 others. This with enxtended shackles is givin me close to 20" of travel.

I started with stock ranger springs, but they went completely flat under the vehicle weight before the chassis even left the jack stands.

The chevy pack is long as hell for front leaves and you can always pull/add leaves for lift etc.

Here's a pic:

l_328d6ce1905a4630a29ced8dbd048122.jpg


I'll tell ya now, this spring set up is soft as hell. This picture is with two buds standing on my step.

l_50f2ef9b18bb455a9677d9b20b6917b5.jpg


Ah just for fun too:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZrm0bqVWQU


Good luck and hit me up with any questions
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top