best performing brakes

[--weezl--]

The pedal isn't soft, it feels normal, and it doesn't seem like fluid is getting back around the piston, because it will hold the brakes just as strong, for like 10-15 minutes (never tried longer than that) my f150's pedal would slowly sink to the floor, while waiting at a red-light, which us for sure a master issue...

 

[jrpdash9]

thats odd. on my ranger the pedal will sink for about a inch then it gets a medium hard. (like hard but that kinda hard were you can feel the brakes) the only time it ever went to the floor was when ether my calipers weren't working or my brake cylinders in the drum

 

[--weezl--]

i suppose a brake bleed wouldn't be a bad idea, but i honestly don't think that's the issue...

 

[jrpdash9]

ya a good bleed always helps alittle

 

[barrys]

Just random feedback...
If you glazed up the rotors and drums and you go off to get them turned -- which everyone's recommending -- then you'll need to get new pads and shoes again. You can try sanding them down to fresh material. But:
1. I've heard that doesn't always work because of some kind of chemical composition change in the pad material after they're heated.
2. Tough to keep them perfectly flat when sanding -- for the pads, I tape sandpaper grit side up to thick glass.
3. That dust has tons of asbestos so mask up.

My indy mechanic who I totally trust won't do a brake job without turning the rotors/drums unless they need to be replaced. I know it's more money in his pocket. But, I've heard that advice so many times I believe it.

You asked what EBC's are. It's a popular brand of aftermarket brake parts with a good reputation and performance upgrade optoins like the drilling and slotting of disks others recommend.

 

[ronclark]

i suppose a brake bleed wouldn't be a bad idea, but i honestly don't think that's the issue...

Any luck yet on your brakes?

 

[--weezl--]

Nah, haven't looked at it really in a few days... I'm not going to worry abou the brakes for a while... I'll replace the disks and pads at the sane time, next time around, maybe look into the ebc's I've got to do an uca here pretty quick, so I'll check pad life when I do that...

They do work right now, just not as good as I hoped they would...

New pads and rotors should make a big difference, if it was just a glazing issue..

 

[grey]

Another thing to check that wont cost you anything, is check that your pads/shoes arent sticking in the guides/against the backing plate. When you are resurfacing or replacing your rotors and replacing your pads, make sure your shim is cleaned of all rust and a thin layer of antiseize is used on it. The pads should move relatively freely so that when your caliper squeezes, both pads act on the rotor. It might seem like something so obvious, but ive seen it happen all too often...one side wears faster than the other.

Same thing goes for the rear. Add a thin layer of antisieze on the backing plate where the shoe rubs(but not on the friction material!) If your shoes stick then you dont get the self acting servo action going fully and that means not full braking power either.

Another disadvantage of not having proper lube on these areas is if they do stick, they will drag, thus glazing everything....and not to mention breaking your wallet with poor fuel mileage, and prematurely worn parts

 

[barrys]

I already do apply the anti-seize grease to the pins and the guides. But, I've heard some suggest that this grease actually picks up dirt/brake dust and actually ends up being worse over time. Confusing...

 

[--weezl--]

i've got antiseize all over everything, and everything gets washed before being re-installed, i don't wrry about it collecting crap