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Best oil?


Synthetic oil can loosen up shit that may be hiding a leak in a high mileage engine. I've never seen it personally but have read about it quite a bit. Take it for what its worth.

Fram is no doubt at the bottom of the quality list.

At the top are brands like s
Wix, Bosch, Purolator, from what I've read,

I think the motocraft is made by Purolator to Ford's specs. Great filters. Should be the best choice IMO. It's what I use. Fords like motocraft. That's why everyone suggests motocraft plugs. They work how they're supposed to because they're designed to work in these vehicles. Its not a generic aftermarket part made to work in multiple vehicles


Just my $0.02

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One thing to consider about full synthetic, switching to full synthetic after the engine has some miles on it will frequently result in the engine using oil.
 
One thing to consider about full synthetic, switching to full synthetic after the engine has some miles on it will frequently result in the engine using oil.

true, i lose a little oil, maybe half a quart to a full quart every 6000 miles, mainly from the rear main, but its been that way even when i was using motorcraft, its just not that big a deal that im willing to go throught the throuble of changing it lol
 
Well tomorrow I am dropping in my motor which has new head gaskets valve cover gaskets oil pan gasket and tomorrow will have a new rear main seal (as long as I can figure out how to get it in without pulling apart the motor) so does this mean synthetic would be a good choice for me? I didn't replace the rings or anything I just did a top end rebuild and new oil pan gasket

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I generally use whatever is on sale. Last change I used Valvoline high mileage 10w30. Next go around I'll probably grab a synthetic jug. I was a little low on funds to do it last time.
 
Are trying to start a damn riot in here?

riot-460x276.jpg
 
Mobil1 10w-30 full synthetic oil and FL-820S Motorcraft filter every 4500 to 5000 miles. Motorcraft filters use a silicone anti drain back valve instead of a cheap cardboard one.
 
always run valvoline or castrol syn, semi syn, or conventional depending on vehicle. also run napa gold filters (made by wix) because the price is good and they are easy to find never lived in a place where anyone carried wix filters (that i could find anyway). Stay away from fram they are junk and not very effective (might as well run some sand in engine if you run fram).
 
Used oil analysis is the only way to know for sure. Blackstone Labs, costs about $25.
www.blackstone-labs.com

I've gotten used oil analysis done on several different oils on several of my family's vehicles and Pennzoil Platinum synthetic has consistently been the best. Lot of people here mentioned Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, which is a great oil for the money.

www.bobistheoilguy.com will tell you more than you ever wanted to know about oil.
 
Used oil analysis is the only way to know for sure. Blackstone Labs, costs about $25.
www.blackstone-labs.com

I've gotten used oil analysis done on several different oils on several of my family's vehicles and Pennzoil Platinum synthetic has consistently been the best. Lot of people here mentioned Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, which is a great oil for the money.

www.bobistheoilguy.com will tell you more than you ever wanted to know about oil.

Johnny, BobistheOilGuy was stated earlier in this thread.

I use Motorcraft filters, FL-1A. The 3.0L & MAYBE the 2.5L can also use the larger filter, as opposed to the 3600 series.

I did not know that about the drain back. Purolater is also a good filter.
 
Mobil1 10w-30 full synthetic oil and FL-820S Motorcraft filter every 4500 to 5000 miles. Motorcraft filters use a silicone anti drain back valve instead of a cheap cardboard one.

I have never seen any oil filter with a cardboard anti-drainback valve. You're thinking of cardboard end caps, which is a different part of the filter. Cheap filters use a nitrile rubber anti-drainback valve, better ones use a silicone valve. I think the Motorcraft FL-1A has a nitrile one IIRC. The FL-820S used on the 4.0 SOHC definitely has a silicone valve (in fact, the "S" at the end of the part number stands for silicone -- indicating it has a silicone ADBV).
 
always run valvoline or castrol syn, semi syn, or conventional depending on vehicle. also run napa gold filters (made by wix) because the price is good and they are easy to find never lived in a place where anyone carried wix filters (that i could find anyway). Stay away from fram they are junk and not very effective (might as well run some sand in engine if you run fram).

Fram is the one of, if not the biggest filter manufacturers in the US. There are millions of vehicles on the road right now with Fram filters installed. Strangely, there is no epidemic of engines seizing on every street corner. :rolleyes:

That being said, there are better filters out there for the money and I don't use Fram.
 
My parents use fram on their caravans. None have seemed to last more than 190k miles without major engine issues.

I keep telling them go not use fram, but it is what it is.

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i run pennzoil myself, lately its the synthetic blend. 5w30 weight. in all 3 vehicles, my ranger with 166k, the S-blazer with 220K on the engine (190 on the chassis, long story) and the daughters '05 suzuki reno 4cyl with 160K+ on it. filters are the purolator "gold" can, forget the name, its between their base filter and the top of the line filter. i used to run a/c in the blazer and motorcraft in the ranger, but after hearing that the a/c's made for walmart (with the "E" after the number=P52E) were cheaper made and could cause a issue, i had to wonder if there is a "walmart" version of the motorcraft filter also that could be bad news....so i switched to purolator and use that brand on all 3 in the "fleet". only had the suzuki a year now, its first oil change i ran a k&n from autozone- 15 dollar oil filter! ive been to the bobistheoilguy site, but its kinda like information overload, just confuses me more. pick a good oil, and a good filter,run the recomended viscosity, change it when it needs it, have a good cooling system that gets the engine to proper temperature and chances are you will be fine...ive heard people swear off pennzoil before, something about "parafin content". but thats all my dad ever ran. (and still does) and hes not the best one for changing oil when it should be done. and he's never had a oil related engine issue.
 

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