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Best locker/limited slip for the money?


Dave18

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 31, 2011
Messages
69
City
Littleton, Colorado
Transmission
Manual
Hi all,
I have a 2002 Mazda B3000 with RWD and the "dual sport" off road suspension. I don't plan to use the truck off road very much, but I like to be able to do simple trails and the truck has to be capable of getting me to trailheads...

Anyway I was thinking the best way to increase the off road performance of the two wheel drive would be to install a limited slip or locking diff. From basic research, I've gathered that the best for off road is an actual locker like the ARB air locker or Eaton's "e-Locker," but I can't justify spending $800-$1000 with college next year.

I've also gathered that autolockers like the detroit lockers are cheaper and work well off road, but I can't afford to lose any street capability, which is 95% of my driving!


This leaves me with limited slip- will this actually help off road? I would imagine its better than nothing... Anyway I'm pretty new to this but I'm very interested in the way vehicles work. Do any of you experienced types have advice on how to increase off road capability on a budget? Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
I would go limited slip. And then add about 4 ounces of friction modifier or whatever its called. Add that and the limited slip is noticeably more catchier. Add a little bit of brake pressure in sticky situations and it acts just as good as a locker.
 
I would go limited slip. And then add about 4 ounces of friction modifier or whatever its called. Add that and the limited slip is noticeably more catchier. Add a little bit of brake pressure in sticky situations and it acts just as good as a locker.

A limited slip without friction modifier will grab harder than one with it...

Friction modifier is added to stop it from chattering around corners so soccer mom's don't bitch.
 
I would go limited slip. And then add about 4 ounces of friction modifier or whatever its called. Add that and the limited slip is noticeably more catchier. Add a little bit of brake pressure in sticky situations and it acts just as good as a locker.

You have no idea what you're talking about, and are providing the OP with false information.

Get a lockright, I ran one in my daily driver, its cheap and effective. A limited slip can never be compared to a locker, limited slips are just that, they still slip. And friction modifier has nothing to do with adding friction, it in fact reduces the way the clutches grab to eliminate noise.
 
An LSD is better than nothing but still nearly useless off-road. I would go with a Lock-Right. I've daily driven locked vehicles for 4 years now and wouldn't go back to open or LSD.
 
apparently im talkin out of my ass, sorry guys. But let me explain, i rebuilt my lsd clutch pack last summer and filled it with royal purple 75W140 which already has the friction modifier in it. After a couple thousand miles of break in i was unhappy about how piss poor the LS grabbed. So i was talkin with a buddy of mine and he said to add "this" (in this case i cant remember what "this" was.) and sure as shit after adding it i was surprised as to how well the LS grabbed now. So i took it out and started testing it off road. seemed to be the right amount of grab and right amount let loose. well i ended up stuck in a drift and had both wheels spinning until i hit dirt with the left and then the LS let go and was just spinning the right, so out of curiosity i used a little bit of brake pressure and got both wheels spinning one diggin in dirt and the other in snow. so just sayin from my experiences LS has worked really well for me. Sorry for any inconvinience and false statements from my first post.
 
Assuming that you don't have a trac loc in it now (which would complicate things, because you would have to swap out the carrier in order to upgrade the differential), short of welding the thing, your two cheapest options are going to be a lock right, or a mini spool.

Personally, I prefer spools over locking differentials in rear axle applications. They are more predictable, cheaper, simpler, and have fewer parts to break or wear out.

They offer mini spools for 28 spline 8.8 applications that allow you to retain the c-clip style axle retention, but installing a set of c-clip eliminators isn't a bad idea (Installing c-clip eliminators would also allow you to run a full spool instead of a mini spool. However, I don't know of anyone who makes 8.8 full spools for 28 spline shafts, and the installation is more coplicated).

If you go with the Lock Right, you can keep the c-clip style axle retention, but again, it would also work with a set of c-clip eliminators.

Cost wise, figure on between $60 and $100 for a mini spool, around $150 for a set of decent c-clip eliminators, and between $300 and $400 for a lock right.

A drop in mini spool that allows you to keep your c-clip axle retention will certainly be the cheapest option - the entire upgrade should run you less than $100.


-Hans
 
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Weld it and be done with it.
 
Cheapest would be welding, but I went with my homemade limited slip: I added an extra used side gear [ not sure of terminology ] washer to my conventional rear. When fresh it's pretty close to a locker. And you can do it to the front as well.

Richard
 
I suggest a Powertrax No-slip. Very street-able and very worth the money off road.

If you can't pipe up the extra $150 or so, get the Powertrax Lock-Rite. But b/c it is cheaper you will loose some of its streetabiltiy and there will be more noises etc. Not much but there is a difference in the two models noticability in daily driving.

Most will suggest a Lock-Rite, welding the spiders, or swapping a L/S carrier in. Those are your cheapest options.
 
i love my Aussie's that i've ran..

so my vote is for Aussie.. or Lock-rite. b/c of the money involved and they are both good lockers.
 
First off, thanks for the help! Like I said I'm new so my learning curve is through the roof right now!
Just to clarify, the main purpose of the truck is for street and highway driving. I can't really install anything that would affect the street characteristics of the truck. Another thing I forgot to mention is that I live in Colorado, so snow can be a problem in the winter. I heard that lockers are "low side finders" on snow and ice, which was one reason I was looking to limited slip.

I checked the axle codes, and I have a 7.5" open axle with gear ratio 3.73. I know this is the smaller axle Ford offers in the Ranger, so would it be able to take a true locker? I'd rather get stuck than break an axle...

So far it sounds like the main options are the "Powertrax No-Slip," (pending street capability), or a limited slip of some kind. (pending off-road capability)
 
Having had both, I'll take a Lock-Right over the No-Slip. Last I checked the No-Slip isn't even made for the 7.5. Any locker or limited slip will spin both tires on snow and ice, I would rather have that than spinning one tire and not moving. Not to mention open diffs are very unpredictable in snow and ice.
 
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The 7.5" has limited parts availability.

There are no selectable lockers for a 7.5", so that's out. (cost was already out anyways)

Aussie (lunchbox locker) doesn't make one for the 7.5" either, that one has decent street manners.

However, they do make a variety of limited slips, and some very good ones. Detroit makes a "tru-trac" differential, which is a very high end torsen limited slip for a little under $500. Probably the best option for the money. Won't wear out like chutches, is tighter than clutches and will stay tighter over time, and really only at most $200 more than even a actual locker (Powertrax Lock-right - about $350). A new clutch l/s will still run at least $250-$300, not including another clutch pack to tighten it up.

If you don't have the money for a full-on selectable (and consequently an axle swap), my vote is for the Detroit Tru-trac.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-92272-7-5-true-trac-differential.html
 

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