Belt routing for 3.0 with Power steering and A/C compressor delete.

[bhgl]

Howdy folks,

I've got an ongoing project that involves deleting these two engine driven pumps, and replacing them with Electric driven ones. No need to discuss the merits of it, but needless to say its happening.

I'll be starting first with the power steering pump, and retaining the A/C compressor for at least a little while, if time and money work out however I'll also be deleting the A/C compressor sometime this year, so I'd like to figure out routing so I can get some belts ordered up and start the fab work that'll go into mounting things.

I'd REALLY love to avoid using dummy pulleys, as the room from the deletes is going to be essential in me actually being able to mount these remote accessories.

1. Power Steering delete only. I'm mainly concerned with the belt coming down from the AC compressor to the main crank pulley. To my eye in vehicle and in diagram, it looks like it'll rub against the tensioner as you can see from my terrible diagram.

Am I missing something? I know the ribbed side of belts can run on smooth pulleys like idler and tensioners, but I just can't think of a way to get this to work with existing pulley locations short of it clearing the idler?

.

2. AC and Powersteering delete:

The only way I can see this working with stock locations is by using a double sided ridged belt, which who knows if they make them in the length I need. I could delete the Idler pulley and just have the tensioner (With a ridged pulley) using the following routing.

Question is, am I missing something? Am I just a part away from being able to use standard single-sided belts?

If anyone has any ideas let me know!

 

[Curious Hound]

In your second drawing, you have reversed the rotation of the water pump. Don't think that's going to work very well.

For both scenarios, I would use the original routing and just add an idler on the bracket where the power steering pump was.

 

[bhgl]

In your second drawing, you have reversed the rotation of the water pump. Don't think that's going to work very well.

For both scenarios, I would use the original routing and just add an idler on the bracket where the power steering pump was.

Ah shit your right on that one, thanks for pointing that out for me!

I'd like to avoid using idlers as I really do need the room in the engine bay afforded by the deletes to fit the compressor and power steering, unless I mount them remotely in the bed (really don't want to do that) or somewhere under a fender, which may not be possible for the pump itself.

 

[RobbieD]

If anyone has any ideas let me know!

It's hard to visualize possible modifications, without having the hardware to look at. ( or rather . . . "to stare at and ponder" )

But . . .

If the alternator mount could be modified to allow "some" adjustment, you could possibly eliminate: the power steering pump, A/C compressor, idler pulley, and the belt tensioner pulley.

It would be crankshaft > water pump > alternator, with belt tension via adjusting the alternator. Just like the stuff outta the sixties.


Besides rotation direction, also keep in mind that you'll need to keep sufficient "wrap" of the belt around the pullies, to minimize slippage.

Interesting project; good luck!

 

[bhgl]

It's hard to visualize possible modifications, without having the hardware to look at. ( or rather . . . "to stare at and ponder" )

But . . .

If the alternator mount could be modified to allow "some" adjustment, you could possibly eliminate: the power steering pump, A/C compressor, idler pulley, and the belt tensioner pulley.

It would be crankshaft > water pump > alternator, with belt tension via adjusting the alternator. Just like the stuff outta the sixties.


Besides rotation direction, also keep in mind that you'll need to keep sufficient "wrap" of the belt around the pullies, to minimize slippage.

Interesting project; good luck!

I was thinking about posting pictures of the remote pump and compressor and then I realized that they probably wouldn't factor in too much, but you're very right about it being hard to visualize without standing in infront of the engine bay.

But I think you've given one of the best suggestions yet! I think with the alternator-as-tensioner idea I'll be able to get sufficient wrap on the water pump, I'll have to check clearance on the left side of the engine though especially if the alternator style tensioner displaces the alternator significantly.

 

[bhgl]

In your second drawing, you have reversed the rotation of the water pump. Don't think that's going to work very well.

For both scenarios, I would use the original routing and just add an idler on the bracket where the power steering pump was.

Further to this, now I'm wondering if I could build a reverse impeller'd water pump. Since no one sells a reverse water pump for this motor, I'm curious if it could be as simple as flipping/replacing the impeller and going from there. Seems like it'd be the easiest way to delete the AC/Powersteering pump.

 

[Curious Hound]

Moving the alternator over to "somewhere between the vacated PS pump and AC compressor location" would clean things up nicely and probably negate the need for any idlers other than the tensioner.

 

[pentode]

Moving the alternator over to "somewhere between the vacated PS pump and AC compressor location" would clean things up nicely and probably negate the need for any idlers other than the tensioner.

Elegant!

 

[bhgl]

Moving the alternator over to "somewhere between the vacated PS pump and AC compressor location" would clean things up nicely and probably negate the need for any idlers other than the tensioner.View attachment 113933

I like this, may actually be quite a bit simpler so do, the alternator would also be closer to the battery, and there could still be enough space to mount the electrified components. Mounting would be much simpler as I some of the old bracketry to mount up the alternator as well.

I imagine it may still work if I were to keep the AC clutch in the short term.