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before tearing into


The master is no fun any way you cut it. With a decent extension set and a swivel it isn't bad unbolting it, getting the line fished out is the hard part.
 
The master is no fun any way you cut it. With a decent extension set and a swivel it isn't bad unbolting it, getting the line fished out is the hard part.
The clutch works very well on this truck even though the transmissions is noisy. RockAuto had the pre bled set at half the price of the other stores so if the connector is the same, may just change the slave.

I can't help but Wonder with all the backyard engineering people do somebody hasn't come up with a old style old school replacement with lever and external slave cylinder like the older Fords lol
 
I've never seen an external slave setup made for the M5OD. That would require a lot of cutting on the bell.
 
I've never seen an external slave setup made for the M5OD. That would require a lot of cutting on the bell.
Lol it would for sure lol,
 
Goodies arrived, lol
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Connect the MC line to the prefilled/bled SC before bringing the Bell tight to the engine?
 
Well we are going to do it!! Hopefully by Saturday I'll be driving around in the new old truck with a new old but newer M50D!

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That doesn't look too bad for a PA truck.
 
Connect the MC line to the prefilled/bled SC before bringing the Bell tight to the engine?

I never do it that way. That line is usually the last thing I do, then I pump the pedal until it starts getting hard, go another 25 times, and crack the bleeder and have someone put it down one last time, just to be safe.

It's not that I don't trust the to be pre-bled properly, I just always assume that disconnecting it and reconnecting it lets a little bit of air back in at the coupler.
 
First report, first discovery, top BH bolts... NOT there lol. That alone speaks volumes..
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8mm 12-point on the front draft drive shaft t-case flange, OMG only one bad head took us two hours +- the other three came right out!
 
Yeah, those front shaft 12 points can be a beach. 5/16" and 8mm are interchangeable. I can't remember which is slightly smaller but sometimes that can help with rounded heads. I also invested in 3/8" drive socket type easy outs [for rounded bolts].
 
Yeah, those front shaft 12 points can be a beach. 5/16" and 8mm are interchangeable. I can't remember which is slightly smaller but sometimes that can help with rounded heads. I also invested in 3/8" drive socket type easy outs [for rounded bolts].
Lol have a set, from Irwin, used the 12 mm for my other truck's pinch bolts on the upper ball joint camber bushings. but don't have the smaller sockets,. But he's old school and wailed on it with air chisel & drill.
 
Okay I'm bad I posted a question separate from this thread sorry.

Anyhow the transmission is up in place couple bolts holding it against the engine

I spent the day routing the new clutch hydraulics OMG.

The old transmission sounds like a washing machine if you just turn the input shaft and it seems not to have any fluid whatsoever.

I'm totally amazed that the input shaft spline went into the old clutch disc on the first push forward! I will never understand how that happened!

Hank and I are both old but he was once a line mechanic at a Ford dealership and did hundreds of Transmissions, over the years. Let's say he asserted his answer when I questioned him on it LOL. he's not worried because it wouldn't have drawn together. Me ever the pessimist, still doesn't believe it lol

Even the engine shim/plate went into place just by pushing it up there!

Took some pics!
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