• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

before tearing into


No, Toyo Kogo transmissions were in early Rangers.

You are thinking of the Tremec/Borg Warner T-5s which were in lots of things, Mustangs, Camaros, S-10s, I think some of the lighter F-series had them.
Oh! Yes, that's why I asked I don't really know. About different Transmissions.
 
More "thinking" before "tearing in"

Any of you use long bolts with the heads cut off turned into the engine block and used as pins to guide the bell into alignment??


He has a trans jack. Do we drop the t-case before or after dropping the trans?

Any other things y'all have employed to make things easier?

Like a 3 ft socket extension for the bellhousing top bolts?
 
Last edited:
I'd pull the top 2 transmission bolt from the engine compartment before raising the truck. I do that on my '04 3.0. Short socket on a flex-head ratchet is easier than 3 feet of extension and swivels.
 
I'd pull the top 2 transmission bolt from the engine compartment before raising the truck. I do that on my '04 3.0. Short socket on a flex-head ratchet is easier than 3 feet of extension and swivels.
Thanks, yes seems like the approach My friend has one of those over the top ladders for working over his big diesel
 
More "thinking" before "tearing in"

Any of you use long bolts with the heads cut off turned into the engine block and used as pins to guide the bell into alignment??


He has a trans jack. Do we drop the t-case before or after dropping the trans?

Any other things y'all have employed to make things easier?

Like a 3 ft socket extension for the bellhousing top bolts?

I don't cut the heads off any bolts. I use all-thread.

I leave the t-case on, but if you don't block the trans correctly it will drop and roll.

I agree with taking the told bolts out from up top. Much easier.
 
I have flex-head ratcheting wrenches, makes getting the top bolts easy from the top.
 
I don't cut the heads off any bolts. I use all-thread.

I leave the t-case on, but if you don't block the trans correctly it will drop and roll.

I agree with taking the told bolts out from up top. Much easier.
40 yrs of HVAC Contracting. Yes, got all thread it's mostly all 3/8 for pipe hanger, 4.0 block is metric, right?
 
Thanks for staying with me on this Gentlemen. I picked up 2, about 4" long, metric 10 X 1.50 if my research for size is correct. Been about 20 years since I've stood inside an engine compartment LOL
 
I am pretty sure the bellhousing bolts on those and most others are metric 12 x 1.75, I had to run a tap through some recently and that was what I used

Just a matter of personal preference but I do all the bellhousing bolts from the bottom with long extensions, and the t-case and trans crossmember removed. Easy access if you let the trans pull the engine down. Tried them from the top many times but I always end up gouging a chunk out of my arm when I do that.

Also personal preference but I don't feel that the slave cylinder disconnect tool is worth a crap. I've bent several of them and they don't push the sleeve in far enough anyway. Small flat screwdriver - work your way around and tap it in.
 
I am pretty sure the bellhousing bolts on those and most others are metric 12 x 1.75, I had to run a tap through some recently and that was what I used

Just a matter of personal preference but I do all the bellhousing bolts from the bottom with long extensions, and the t-case and trans crossmember removed. Easy access if you let the trans pull the engine down. Tried them from the top many times but I always end up gouging a chunk out of my arm when I do that.

Also personal preference but I don't feel that the slave cylinder disconnect tool is worth a crap. I've bent several of them and they don't push the sleeve in far enough anyway. Small flat screwdriver - work your way around and tap it in.
That is a big bolt! But not a big issue it's never going to warm up and it's never going to stop raining anyway
 
Looks like we are going to tackle the project next week! :icon_surprised:
 
Yes, 4.0 block is metric. I had to special order the stuff from Fastenal because nobody around me carries metric all-thread.

The bell bolts should be 10x1.50.
 
He's fighting me about changing out what isn't broke LOL sometimes no amount of explaining why doesn't work. lol
 
He's fighting me about changing out what isn't broke LOL sometimes no amount of explaining why doesn't work. lol
I read that; " what input shaft do you have?" and got worried all over again.

Best way to change the clutch master cylinder, from the wheel well? ( I really haven't looked yet)

Yes, 10 x 1.50 was what I found on the bolt size also, thank you.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top