• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Been studying lockers.... Air or Elock?


PanamaExpat

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 28, 2011
Messages
1,076
City
Panama City, Rep. of Panama
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
OK guys... I know many of you out there have them. It also looks as if the torque style (Aussie) lockers fall far short and can actually be more of a bother than a help. I read all about the Ected and it isn't really a TRUE locker but more of a fancy limited slip kind of thing. So that more or less brought me to two makes of lockers. The ARB air locker and the Eaton Elocker. Since I am in a very wet and humid mud crusted type of environment which do you think would be most reliable and longest living of the two beasts? I was kind of hoping to plant a pair into the 94 B4000 that is in pieces in the garage but no matter which ones you look at they are VERY pricey. So it may become next year's rainy season's project unless someone has a set that they wouldn't mind getting rid of kind of cheap.

My impression is that if you combine a pair of lockers and a doubler you can sit and spin all 4 wheels in the mud hole while sinking to the axles.
 
Last edited:
My detroit does great, no problems on/off road. No experience with manual lockers, heard good things though.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic
 
Air would likely last longer in your environment, since electronics don't seem to like water for some odd reason... Although realistically they are meant to be used in water and such. If I had to choose, it'd be air.

I have a LockRight from Richmond gear in my truck, it's the "aussie" style as you chose to describe it. For an experienced driver, the only thing you'll notice is you can't turn as sharp, and the ratchet-jump/pop during low speed turns. If you're going around the town, you might get a pop at every turn. Usually during my daily drive I don't get a single pop, but sometimes I'll get quite a few. When it does happen, it still catches me off guard and I think "****, what did I just break?" When say, navigating a parking lot, I'll get a jumping feeling with light pops.

Out on the highway, it's not even there.

Off-road, it's like going from 2x to 4x all over again. I love it.

And I never had trouble sitting and spinning 2 wheels in a mud hole, so why not spin all 4? Really a locker is for when a tire is lifted/has no traction, and the other does have traction. If you drive straight into deep enough mud, ain't nothing going to help.
 
I have lunchbox lockers front and rear. Popping always happens when turning in a drive or onto another road, but I've had no troubles. Got a Detroit locker in the Mustang and never had issues.

I used arbs in a jeep and they were awesome but installation was much more intense and expensive. (although since I was doing air, I did a lot more than lockers).

I would only spend the money on arbs if I was building Dana 60s and running 40s.

Although for me, cost/performance is a huge consideration.
 
E-Lockers S U C K !!! Stay far far away.


ARB's are awsome. The few drawbacks to them are, you have to buy a compressor, wire it up, plumb it in, ect. Also, they are open when you loose air (unless you get the new big $$ comp ones) so if you break a hose or compressor fails, the are just like a open diff!!! Dont think it dosent happen, i have personally seen three ARB failures.


Simplicity,Durability,Reliability DETROIT DETROIT DETROIT!!!! Bolt it in, forget about it. They work everytime, peroid.
I have seen 1 detroit "fail" we decided the axle broke, and the locker let go due to the axle failure. (35 spline chromo D60).
 
Last edited:
Id just go with a conventinal detroit locker


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2
 
I like my ected. But with my truck the LSD is used much more than the locker, even offroad. It does fully lock though. And no more expensive than an ARB. My only complaint is they don't have one for a 9" for when that inevitably happens down the road.

If the ratcheting and ECTED are out of the question, I would probably go with the ARB so I could have onboard air as well. In the end something in the system is electrically controlled, no matter which way you go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yukon Grizzly locker or Zip locker.
 
You always have the OX cable operated locker which has some pretty amazing reviews as well.
 
I've heard really good stuff about OXLockers. They're cable actuated and are supposed to be damn near bullet proof. I don't own one but I plan on getting one for my 9" if they ever make one. I have a Detroit in a rear D-44 right now and it's doing just fine. I don't have any complaints.
 
what kind of budget do you have, and what axles are you putting them in? I would stick detroit in the back for reliability, and a selectable (ARB) in the front. It would be easier on parts and more reliable. I run a spool out back and a detroit up front,but mine never sees pavement.
 
Detroit for simplicity. But realistically it'll come down to what axle you have. Post your axle size here to more accurately help you.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I have 3.27 ratio D35 TTB front and Ford 8.8 rear. The 1994 B4000 comes with the 31 spline axles if I am correct. If all the research I am doing os coming up correct Eaton doesn't make an Elocker for the D35. Summit doesn't have them listed anyhow.

I am going to Google the Detroits but I don't think they fit my axles either.

I am wondering however how an Aussie Locker would do in the front with the Warn Manual hubs and then go Elocker or ARB in the rear?
 
I Have ARBs F&R on my BII. I much prefer the selectable lockers with it still seeing the street a fair amount (I have a Detroit in the rear on my Ranger, it is a PITA somewhat to live with on the street with a stickshift, although less so if you have an automatic).

An ARB's reliability is almost entirely dependent on care that goes into the installation. If the lines are placed so they aren't vulnerable to snags by branches, melted by the exhaust, etc., there shouldn't be much to worry about (up front, mine runs up above the axle beam under the engine crossmember where it snakes it's way through the pivot bracket into the engine compartment. It would take a freak incident for something to get up in there and rip it out. The rear line is bundled in with the stiff parking brake cables so anything ripping it off would have to rip out the p-brake cables too).


Something you'll probably want to do often since you say you're in a humid environment is make sure water doesn't collect inside the compressor tank. Otherwise it can slowly accumulate and corrode the inside (on mine I left one of the fittings just barely loose enough that the tank air charge would dissipate after about 2-3 days. Any water inside evaporates back into the air as the pressure very slowly diminishes).


All Ranger (and your Mazda) 8.8" axles (the FX4 Torsen L/S model excepted) have 28 spline axles. Probably goes without saying, but you'll almost certainly want to get rid of those 3.27 gears for something better too.
 
Last edited:
I've been wanting to try the Spartan locker. The price is right and they are guaranteed. I love my grizzly locker.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top