Barnfind starter won't engage.

[JackLikesTrucks]

Hello. Found a 1994 Ranger in great shape in a barn in central Ohio and snagged it for $400. It had a starter issue and the guy just let it sit.

Engine turns by hand, starter and the black fender mounted relay is brand new.

Clutch in, hit the key and we feel and hear the loud CLACK at the relay and also feel and hear the solenoid at the starter engage. Voltmeter drops a few points while holding the key to START. Battery is a good one I had and its at full charge.

Here's the thing: I doubt the starter motor is turning on at all. Just the solenoid.

Any ideas? Could I have a bad relay? Could he have installed the relay wires wrong?

 

[Insanejughead]

Take your starter out and replace the brushes. It's a $22 fix from O'reilly's and it takes not even an hour. Besides being easy, it's a hell of a good insurance for a long time in the future.


I had to do that to mine and I took a few pictures of it too. I'll get them on here when I get back home.

Simple steps. 1. Take starter out of truck completely. 2. Unscrew the four screws from the back plate of the starter (don't lose all the internals once you do, they're a pain to get back in place) 3. Slide out the worn out brush assembly and pop in the new one. 4. Put the end plate back on and put the four screws back in the right spots. 5. Reinstall starter.

(Btw, it helps to disconnect the battery. There's alot of juice going to that one wire on the solenoid)

 

[Will]

Did you test the starter before installing it?

The relay on the fender isn't neccesary. I don't know why it's there. Jump around it and try it.

 

[martin]

check the ground on the motor.

 

[Insanejughead]

Hmm... I missed that you said it was a new starter when I read that.


Talking about grounds... Check the copper eyelet on the end of the starter cable. Mine also had corroded down so far that it broke when I unbolted it to get the starter out.

 

[smokey]

New doesn't mean good. I have got several bad rebuilt starters.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'd vote for battery cables... or at least corrosion somewhere...

 

[Insanejughead]

New doesn't mean good. I have got several bad rebuilt starters.

Hmm... Ouch.


What did you do when you found out it was rebuilt shittily?




JackLikesTrucks, would you still want pictures of my brush replacement?

 

[JackLikesTrucks]

Sure, insanejughead. I have another starter that could use some brushes. THANKS.

I'll look for corrosion somewhere. But she has a clean install of a all-new-manufacture starter with clean copper.

I'll have to check ALL my grounds. I made bare metal ground when I checked the fender relay. Didn't help.

Q: What does it mean when the solenoid at the starter kicks but still no motor running? It did this with both the old and the all-new starter. (Or in other words, the new starter didn't change a thing).

Q: What is the other large lug connector for on the starter? Is it a negative or ground? Cause there's nothing going to it.

 

[JamesC]

don't take this the wrong way but how is the battery?

 

[alaskan155]

do the windshield wipers work, if not check the engine ground, the big fat wire the runs from the battery to the framerail, then to the engine block(still check it if they do, but from what ive seen the wipers wont work unless they are grounded to the engine)

the starter is real basic, try lightly sanding the area the starter ataches to, and check the positive wire going down to the starter, the small wire on the silonoid goes to the top post on the silinod, then check the ground cable that goes to the block, u can also use a screw driver to jump the silinod, and use a hammer to tap the starter a few times to free it up(if you havent removed it yet)

 

[Earl43P]

Q: What is the other large lug connector for on the starter? Is it a negative or ground? Cause there's nothing going to it.

That's your problem, right there. Large terminal on starter should be 12v, all the time. It comes straight from the + Bat Terminal, big red cable. No 12v there, no starter operation. Sounds like a bad cable. Cheap fix.

 

[86ford]

[/COLOR]


That's your problem, right there. Large terminal on starter should be 12v, all the time. It comes straight from the + Bat Terminal, big red cable. No 12v there, no starter operation. Sounds like a bad cable. Cheap fix.

It sounds like your starter is hooked up incorrectly. IF I remember correctly that starter is a 1 wire starter (should be if your solenoid is on the fender). If the solenoid makes a loud CLACK then you have your positive wire grounded out to something.

PM me if you have questions in the event I dont see this thread again.
I am on the west side of Cleveland were are you from?

86

 

[feellnfroggy]

if it has been sittin, it could still look new. TAP(dont bash) it with a hammer and see if its froze up. I used to have to do that on some old mustangs w/6 mos old starters.

also if the starter was grounded out then a wire would be melted. If the solenoid is juiced then so is the starter. A loose ground is a whole different matter though and entirely possible.

 

[86ford]

if it has been sittin, it could still look new. TAP(dont bash) it with a hammer and see if its froze up. I used to have to do that on some old mustangs w/6 mos old starters.

also if the starter was grounded out then a wire would be melted. If the solenoid is juiced then so is the starter. A loose ground is a whole different matter though and entirely possible.

IF he (or someone else) hooked the starter up incorrectly it will make a loud clack. Just because the solenoid is getting power does not mean the starter is. I have seen the mounting tab on the wire will break off the starter and arc out, the solenoid was getting power but the starter was not.

86