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Barnfind starter won't engage.


No change.

Just a single CLACK at the fender relay and a clack at the solenoid but no starter turn-over.

Starter is ALL new-manufacture - not a rebuild w/ clean copper connection.
Fender relay is new w/ clean copper connections.
Battery is +14
Got +12 down the red cable to the starter solenoid.
Got good ground from starter casing to Battery (-) post.

Relay clacks and the solenoid clicks. No turnover. UGH.

Any more ideas?
 
Do you have power on both sides of the solenoid when you try to start it if not you have a bad solenoid
 
have u tried bypassing everything in the starter system all together, try runnin +12v from the positive side of the battery to the starter side on the starter mounted solenoid. if the causes the starter to engage then odds are ur jumper wire connecting the 2 sides of the starter mounted solenoid is not there or functioning properly, check this out and let us know the results
 
I'm gonna do this next.

I did see some corrosion at the engine/neg cable connection on the driver side of the engine block.

But I took my jumper cable (black ends) and grabbed the starter case and the neg. batt terminal to simulate a ground.

No change.

So can I rule out a bad ground at least?
 
Q: What is the other large lug connector for on the starter? Is it a negative or ground? Cause there's nothing going to it.

Does this look like your starter? Is your solenoid hooked to your starter?
STR-2825.jpg
 
That's the one. Large red batt+ cable going to the large high post and a smaller red cable going to the blade connector. I have a good ground going thru the casing to the motor then thru a black cable to the neg batt terminal.

I even ran a jumper cable from the starter casing to the neg batt with no change. Just CLICK at the relay and solenoid.

Q: If the starter has full-time 12v red power, and the casing is gounded, why doesn't it spin all the time? Does the solenoid make the starter power-up as well as kick out the cog?
 
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Check that smaller red cable connector on the starter. If it corrodes up it will cause a no-crank condition. I had to cut off the connector on my old 3.8L Sable starter and wire in a clean one on an extension to reach.
 
Well if you have power all the way down to the starter, that kinda negates my other option. This 92 I have does the clack once in a while due to corrosion at the battery terminal. I got power everywhere but have to whack the terminal a lil, if I cant readily clean it at the moments, But since you have 12 volts to the starter...nevermind.
 
Here's the few pictures of the brush replacement. With all your problems... who knows. This could still be a possible reason it's not working right.


Eyelet that came off of the starter cable when I wiggled it.
P2160341.jpg


Before I tore it apart. Looks alright... WRONG.
P2170251.jpg



Here's my brushes when I pulled them out. All the wear is clearly visible. Borg Warner has a nice shiny replacement for this whole thing $21.99 (I found my receipt last night) from O'reilly's.
P2180262.jpg



The wire here was so badly corroded that when I pulled it out, the damn thing frayed all to hell and was only being held together by two or three strands.
P2180259.jpg


This shiny wire right here is what replaced the wire above.
P2180264.jpg
 
mine did the same thing. take a piece of wire from neg. side batt. and attach it to the motor some were. i bet it turns over
 
I didnt see where you had tried the starter without it bolted to the motor. Have somebody crawl under the truck and hold the starter and turn key to start. If it works then you may have the wrong starter. Is your truck auto or manual?
 
Manual. I4.

COuld it be slamming against the forward face of the flywheel and not engaging but jamming?

I really had the impression the starter solenoid would click hard but not that the motor was turning in any way.
 
mine did the same thing. take a piece of wire from neg. side batt. and attach it to the motor some were. i bet it turns over


Did this. Clamped my jumper cable to the starter casing and the other clamp to the neg batt terminal. Basically jumping over the ground connection at the driver side block.

Same thing. CLACK at the relay and click at the solenoid. No crank.

Proves to me the negative ground connection good from the starter casing thru to the battery neg. terminal.
 
I know you said that it is a new starter but you may want to take it off and take it to the parts house and let them test is there or if you have a jump box you can clamp the negative to the housing and touch the positive to the hot side of the starter and it should spin if it don't the starter is stuck
 

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