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Balls....


It may just be me looking at this the wrong way but the rims dont fit the drum center hub every wheel Ive looked at the center hub is a close fit that rim hole looks way big for drum hub hopefully Ive explained this right lol

The center hole doenst matter on these type of wheels. These use the lug nuts to center the wheel, thats why they have a taper. On some vehicles, like 97-03 F-150's, the center hole in the wheel is used to center the wheel on the axle/hub. Thats why they have a flat faced washer on the lug nut, it only needs to hold in, not center.
 
It may just be me looking at this the wrong way but the rims dont fit the drum center hub every wheel Ive looked at the center hub is a close fit that rim hole looks way big for drum hub hopefully Ive explained this right lol

I would think that as long as the right lug nuts were used, the wheel should self center even if that center hole is not the same size. He did say these are Jeep wheels so that could explain the difference.

I still say it looks like a case of loose lug nuts. Combined with the above.
 
my front drivers side wheel on my s15 did kinda the same thing after a night of wheeling 12kms up the mountain.. it started vibrating and i could feel it in the floor, when i stopped to check it out all 5 lug nuts were loose and roughly a 1/4 inch from the rim so the rim was flopping around.. i borrowed a 3/4 inch tire iron from a guy and got them as tight as i could.. got off the dirt and onto the pavement it was fine till about halfway home (roughly a 12km drive on pavement, half that so about 6kms) it got sooo bad that i didnt want to chance the wheel coming off again. so i called my sister's house (they came wheeling with me but got home before i did) and my sister's boyfriend came out with some tools and i tighten them up again when i got home...

luckily the tire didnt fall but it was close..:icon_bounceblue:
 
Once my dad got the idea into his head that my lug nuts were worn out, but the ones off his buddies 83 that was on its way to the junk yard were in better shape, grabbed them and told me to put them on (I was about 14 or 15 at the time).

then we took it up to the farm to drive up and down the lane a bit. Went up, drove up and down the lane a few times, ok, no problem, came back, right at the bottom of the hill we hear "ting ting ting". 100 feet later we turn into the drive and loose a wheel. So its sitting in the drive, one corner on the flat side of the rim (just the luck of how it landed), no plates, no inspection, no insurance, no registration, 4 inches off the road.
 
Just give the studs a sharp whack or two with a hammer, they should pop right out the back. I would suggest that you support the truck really well (jackstands, block the wheels, etc) to put the new studs in. And I'd get a couple grade 8 washers the right size. Jam the new stud in as much as you can, then stick the washers on (I have four I use) then thread on the lug nut backwards (flat side to the washers) and start cranking with a breaker bar till it pulls the stud all the way in.
 
when pulling the studs into place DO as instructed above and use a conventional lugnut backwards.

BUT there's some other things else you want to do as well...

Before pulling the new stud into place smear the knurled shank
with some JB weld, And while actually pulling into place putting a
couple of flat washers between the nut and the axle flange will
make the job go FAR easier

what the washers do is reduce friction and you can better "Feel" when the stud is bottoming out.

DO NOT use an air gun to pull the studs ito position, use a four way lug wrench
and do it by hand.

AD
 
DO NOT use an air gun to pull the studs ito position, use a four way lug wrench
and do it by hand.

AD

+1

I learned that one the hard way.
 
The other key to this job is to remember exactly what the car felt like so you will you feel it sooner tighten it before it does damage.
 
I still am not sure exactly what caused it, I'm going to pop the tire off of the rim tomorrow and see if any thing looks weird. I always torque down to spec. I've watched my cousin run the lugs in with an impact to "tight enough" and then drive off only to loose his tire and have to replace the new disc brake he just put on. What ever it was I got the studs out fine and was able to get the new ones in relatively easy.
 
Why are you removing the tire from the rim? This wasn't caused by a tire issue.
 
Well the wheel is no good, but the tire is probably still usable. Since the wheel is not hubcentric, I would bet it was not centered and the taper of lugnuts caught just the edge of the wheels. Not common, but I have seen it enough to know it does happen. One reason for comming to this conclusion is since he makes reference to the tire having issues. I would guess the wheels have not been on the truck that long. It would only have been a matter of time before wheel shifted and cause the lug nuts to back off.
 
IMG_0611.jpg

Looking at this picture, I have a question for you. What the heck caused the wear on the rim outside of the bolt patern? Right where the rim starts to turn into the spokes. Was it that loose that the nuts caused that? From what I can see it is worn way outside of where the nuts would have rubbed into it. Did you put the nuts on with washers under them to drive it home?

If I were you I would be looking at all the other rims also. I believe there is a difference in the taper of a stock ranger lug nut in relation to one on a Jeep.
If the taper is not the same angle you won't get the same amount of surface area for the nut to seat against.

My Father had the same problem years ago when he put ford rims on a Jeep.
Wheel came loose because bevel for the nut to seat in was different.

You better do some close inspection on the good wheels or it will be happening again.

I forgot you said "three of my four jeep wheels are shot". Is there more to this story you haven't told us yet?
 
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