It went great. Just be sure to apply pb blaster on all nuts (tie-rod, lower ball joints) and pinch bolts, and let it sit for several days (apply it a couple times or more... the more the better, and the longer it sits on there the better). Have a pipe to put over your ratchet to break the nuts loose. Loosen the tie-rod end nut first (after you remove cotter pin). Pinch bolt next. The last nut you loosen is the lower ball joint (after you remove the cotter pin). Don't use a pickle fork to break the ball joints or tie-rods loose. All you have to do is loosen the nuts, flip them around (so the castlelated part is facing down), make it flush with the tip, and hit it with a dead blow hammer. They will come loose after a few wacks, and you won't damage the dust boots. You'll want to string the tie-rods up, out of the way while you work. Be careful with the pinch bolts on the upper ball joint though. Put a little bit of heat on the pinch area, and they should come loose no problem. Remove the pinch bolt. When the pinch bots are out, pop the alignment bushing out of the upper ball joint with a screw driver (mark it first if you have an aftermarket bushing, so you know how it goes in. My stock bushing only went in one way). Turn the spindle to get to the lower ball joint, loosen the nut, flip the nut, whack it many times on the top, and the ball joint will come lose. Now you have the spindle loose (ball joints are in the the assembly with the spindle). You're going to need a ball joint C tool (kinda looks like a c-clamp), which you can buy for about 35-40 bucks at harbor freight (or borrow at an auto parts store). I popped the old ball joints out using this tool on the floor. You will need the pipe and the ratchet. I prefer this over a breaker bar. The ball joint will literally pop when it is loose (takes a little grunt). Then it will smoothly come out. If you buy the harbor freight ball joint tool, you have to remove the lower ball joint first, then the upper one (the upper one has a snap ring on it btw, remove it with a screw driver and pliers). When you install them, you install the upper first, then the lower. The lower one just gets pressed in, there is no snap ring that goes on it. When you put the upper one in, be sure to put the snap ring on it. Be sure you know when the ball joint is in all the way, check several times, because you will damage it if you keep tightening. When you put the spindle back on the truck (make sure dust boots are on the ball joints), finger tighten the lower ball joint nut. Then put in the alignment bushing on the upper ball joint and put the pinch bolt in, loosely tighten it (like finger tight, just make sure it's started into the threads). Then, put a bottle jack underneath the lower ball joint, and put some slight pressure on it (to keep it from moving while you tighten the nut. Then, using a ratcheting torque wrench, tighten the lower ball joint to 35 ft lbs. Then, tighten the upper pinch bolt (on the upper ball joint) to 85-100ft lbs. Go back to the lower ball joint, tighten the nut to 104 ft lbs. Tighten it a little more if you have to, to make the nut line up with the cotter pin hole. Tap the cotter pin in and bend the ends of it. Put the tie-rod back on, torque it 51ft lbs, a little tighter if needed to line up the cotter pin hole. Tap cotter pin in and bend the ends of it. Put your grease fittings on, grease them... Enjoy your new ball joints.
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