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Back from the DEAD ( Runs, Not very far... )


Bleed the brakes good then at the master cylinder have someone push on the pedal as you bleed the fittings going out, first one then the other until the light goes out and quickly tighten it. Dont let up pressure on the pedal until the fitting is snug.
 
sounds scary to me!
brakes are alright, and will probably outlive the truck

Bought oil press sending unit ($5) (the 'light' version, not the 'gauge' version, because i just have a dummy light)
got to install it though. i did peek around to find it but have not located it around the fuel pump. I will pull it into the garage and take of the driver tire and peek around more though :)

Oah and here is kindof a sad question.

Oil is getting from the pcv to inside the air filter area on top of the carb. like white foamy oil. does that mean i have coolant getting into my oil? i should change the oil and also buy a new pcv valve.
 
If the oil is good just change the PCV and the breather filter in the air filter housing. It sounds like a clogged PCV valve blowby is more than it can handle. You can put one in from a larger V-8 if you still have excessive blowby with the stock PCV. Most of the blowby on my engine was valve guide seals you can change them without pulling the heads. You just need air pressure to hold the valves shut while you pull the springs and change the seals.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2-8_valve-seal.html
 
If the oil is good just change the PCV and the breather filter in the air filter housing. It sounds like a clogged PCV valve blowby is more than it can handle. You can put one in from a larger V-8 if you still have excessive blowby with the stock PCV. Most of the blowby on my engine was valve guide seals you can change them without pulling the heads. You just need air pressure to hold the valves shut while you pull the springs and change the seals.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2-8_valve-seal.html
I'm going to do an oil change, the oil is from the winter and has 1,000 miles on it, but i've been topping it off since the truck leaks a little oil and burns a little. (//edit wow, well if i've been topping it off, i shouldn't have to change the oil ever ;) - )
New pcv valve is $4 but they have to order it, one more store to check on if they have it in stock, otherwise i will order it. For now i just pointed the breather tube down < only stating this if there is something tremendously bad about that, maybe lower intake temperatures >

Those valve guide seals make more sense now, thanks for letting me know. I'll look into doing that (rockauto has them for ~ $1.57ea or a $16 kit. if i buy the parts ill do it eventually ;) )

I really need to degrease the pig to really pinpoint my leak. I know the engine is leaking from the front seal by the fan and probably valve cover gaskets

Got my tach today, hopefully ill install it this weekend.
ugh, i need my multimeter.
for the RED (battery voltage) should i tap into a fuse?

and can i tap into one of the wires on the headlight switch to get the light to come on automatically when i turn on my lights?
I sort of want to use a switch. May I connect it to the same 12v source from the fusebox or wherever i get power from and use that also to turn on the light?
 
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Tach installed, got some help from a buddy and made it easy ill do a few good photos of it later

I think i am getting interference though. I got 12v with key-on from the 'power windows' block in the fusebox, and i grounded the tack under by the pedals. bad idea? from 55mph onward it just stays around 3k even if i get upto 70mph, 3k is the highest - hence i think i am getting interference. I should test with a ground wire all the way to the battery.
 
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