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Back from the DEAD ( Runs, Not very far... )


Be warned as the D28 has weak shafts and very weak ujoint ears and it could break one of those so dont drive her to long on dry pavement.
 
I don't think 4wd is even working. But yeah I did look for some dry pavement today. I Wish there was some,it is all snow.

what are the reasons that 4wd is not working? I have auto hubs.
 
That could be the reason. The auto hubs arent working not allowing for your 4wd to work. Put a set of manual hubs on her. Theres ways to test it but Im not sure though.
 
Need to go to a junkyard!
Definitely need some manual hubs.

Maybe they just need to be taken apart and played with :\

^//edit http://www.aa1car.com/library/4wd_locking_hubs.htm Lots of hub information.

Anyway, I would rather have manual hubs.

What vehicles could the manual hubs be pulled from ? Jeeps of sorts also have a similar dana setup ? hubs for d30 and 35 work for my truck?
 
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Another problem.
got a sort of 'sticky' brakes issue. The rears are locing up. Maybe just the driver side. It started doing that when it was really cold outside ( -3°F, with 20mph wind) and it hasn't recovered. Water in the line or drums suspect?

and no I haven't been using the ebrake even though I love ebrakes :( I want to use it but i'm afraid it will stick and won't release sort of like my brake trouble.


Cliffs: when driving and then stopping, the brake light is on the dash, and I slow down, and when I take off it feels boggy, and I think I hear some screechig on driver rear drum.
let me know what i'm in for, a brake job I guess?
I know the booster is topped off, I'll double check it tomorrow. But I should flush the brake fluid out. It's old and likely watery.

//edit
I checked fluid. It's at like 3/4ths or half. I'll chk tomorrow when I can see and on level ground. I hope it isn't leaking though! How else would I lose brake fluid?
 
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I would bleed the brakes and change them all the way around, including the rotors and drums and inspect the lines.
 
Driver shoe is shot. broken to pieces.
Removed the wheels finally and found the axle seals are crap too. going to replace those and pads soon. already have the pads. Need to figure out which axles i have ( 3.5blah 4.1???) hopefully the tag has that on the pumpkin. I'll swap out the seals and change both shoes.

I guess i have the 8in brakes because the 10" drum brakes shoes are like double the width! they're crazy big

I learned today ( always check parts at the parts store, my friend taught me!)
 
You are changing the drums also correct if not you will be back there in short order. I allways either turn or change the drums whenever putting new shoes on.
 
wasn't planning on it. I will atleast price it out but my friend will yell at me if I do ;) he doesn't want me to do anything but what's necessary. I don't have a grinder but maybe i'll check the shop in town and see what they would want to get them ground. Shoes are $20 (cheap unrivited kind)
I know I should do it, and also the front discs.

Thank you. I will probably just get them turned. Thanks for the idea.

Is it possible to weld the rear differential? This one wheel wonder is pissing me off. I don't care about tire wear. 240 guys do it all the time.
 
Update//

I have done some work
Brakes all around (got rear drums ground for $11.50, Old timer named George was cool to talk with) , rear axle seals, removed headliner, new starter ($45), new gas tank ( well, marine 5gal tank in box mounted ), Mirrors, general cleaning, and a whole lotta driving.
Got 24mpg one night on about a 40mile trip, but I'm thinking the wind was behind me because now im getting ~17. Trying to figure out of this truck likes 87 or 89w ethanol.

I'm having idle issues, once and a while ill idle down a hill and it will just sputter and die.

Oah yeah, I figured out the cluster, says 18,100mi right now. I'm hoping its only rolled over 1 time = 118k? or did it roll over twice, i mean its a 84..... 218k?

______
Dunno It was cold out and I took some documentation
kind of a
How to change an axle seal ?

71603768.jpg

Oah noes
18084127.jpg

Jack car up like crazy
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Remove wheels + drums
May need to give em a wack with something

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Grab the bolts off the differential and leave the top one and drain it off
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I had all the bolts off and then i gave it a whack and it started draining.


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Heres the pinion whatever you have to remove because its in the way/connected to the axles
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Remove the screw that holds it in place and slide it out toward the differential opening if you can.


66062819.jpg

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I do like cleaning up parts with my bench grinder, but i ended up ordering a rebuild kit. I did 'delete' my rear e-brake because it was sticky from where it goes from the spring on the frame near the rear to each brake. a little silly yes, but whatever.
 
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Dont know how to do the rest?? Just put the new seals in and assemble in reverse order.
 
I would bleed the brakes and change them all the way around, including the rotors and drums and inspect the lines.
I suggest new rear wheel cylinders while your at it along with hardware and the master cylinder is probably due to be changed also especially if the oil is real black in the reservor. Blast the lines with high pressure air good run a little oil thru and blast them again until the oil comes out clean then hook them up to the calipers and cylinders. I just depends how far you want to go.
 
I suggest new rear wheel cylinders while your at it along with hardware and the master cylinder is probably due to be changed also especially if the oil is real black in the reservor. Blast the lines with high pressure air good run a little oil thru and blast them again until the oil comes out clean then hook them up to the calipers and cylinders. I just depends how far you want to go.

Yeah one side blew so i needed a new one :) they bolt in easy, but be careful with those brake line nuts... they are easy to mess up
 
That oil light is pretty annoying ! make it stop!
 

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