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B3000 won't start


Guanfy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2019
Messages
221
City
Crawfordville, Florida
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
Stock
Total Drop
Stock
Tire Size
15in
Recently acquired a new to me 1994 B3000 with 168k on it. Previous owner blew a head gasket and had it torn down to the heads when I made the purchase. 3 months later... I've rebuilt the engine from the block up and replaced the warped and cracked heads along with the bad head gaskets. The truck will now turn over, fire, but not start. I never pulled the distributor during this process nor messed with the timing chain. As far as I can tell the fuel pump is working and spark is happening. Compression seems good as well. Any suggestions on where to go from here?
 
Do 50/50 test

Spray fuel into the intake and try to start engine
1. If it starts OK but then dies, spark/timing is OK but injectors are not opening or no fuel at the injectors, or bad fuel :)

2. If it doesn't start up or backfires then spark timing is not right or weak spark
50/50, instant results on what to check

Since you've never heard engine run you don't know what previous owner has done before you got it, so don't "assume' gasoline in the tank is good or that spark timing is right


You can crank the engine a few times then pull out 1 spark plug, it should be WET with fuel, if injectors are working and there is fuel pressure, smell it, is it gasoline :), light it, it should burn easily if its gas
 
Last edited:
That's a place to start. By intake you mean the big inlet on the plenum right?
 
So update. Turns out the spark plugs were most likely one post out of position on the distributor. I moved them, seated them and the truck fired right up. Unfortunately right around engine temp the driver's side freeze plug blew out so.... The plug is very rusted and I think was failing before I got the truck. I'll replace that and see what happens. Thank you for your help.
 
Good work :)


You can use the rubber expansion plugs in place of freeze plugs(core plugs), much easier to install in tight spots
 
I am going to try and use the brass ones if possible. I'll buy the rubber expanders as a backup. Everything I am reading is saying that they are more temporary in nature and are more prone to popping out.
 
Never found that to be the case in my use of those

But for sure go with what you have used before, brass won't rust, but they can also pop out, in my experience, but only happened twice in 40 years so not a deal breakers, lol
I use steel now if engine is out and I am replacing all of them, then paint them, if you change coolant every 2 years then rusting out from the inside is not an issue, if you don't then they may only last 20 years, or 25, like your 1994 core plug did


The rubber plugs are strictly for easier installs in tight spots
 
Ron,

Thanks for the sage advice. I'll probably buy some rubber expanders and some brass tomorrow so that when I try to do the replacement I can go with what I can actually use.
 

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