B2 doesn't run right

[Brownie Mobile]

Im about to take a sledge to my B2 cause its making me very angry, i cant drive it without it dieing i cant tune it properly. heres my problem my B2 runs like a piece of **** its got only 101k on it. I've tried many times to tune the carb it doesnt work every single method i find that people use for tuning the mixture does not work, no matter how much i mess with it it never is right. I can solve the dieing with turning up the idle but its too high. Im definitely not getting anything out of this truck theres no power what so ever and theres no difference really between half throttle and full throttle. Heres what it feels like to me, its spraying enough gas in the engine but its not getting all that can be had from the gas, everytime i look up how to tune these carbs its just stupid they tell you to listen till its right thats impossible, because its not right when it sounds right. What do i do why does my B2 hate me ?

 

[509lifted]

i had the same symptoms as ur saying and it was my tfi after i chaned it the truck ran great no need to keep the gas peddal press in but i let it go all the way untill i couldnt move it two feet without it dying

 

[PetesPonies]

First carburetors do not spray fuel into the engine. Atmospheric pressure pushes the fuel into the venturi when the pressure is less in the venturi. You nee3d to draw air through the venturi which is hour glass shaped, in order to create this lower pressure. Now that is how a carb works in simple terms. Problem is, your carb isn't so simple. because it is a feedback carburetor. Which means, there is a computer that controls how much fuel "may" flow during this conditions I mentioned. They can be tricky to adjust because of this. Your best bet is to do away with the computer. Run a Duraspark ignition system and a sTAND ALONE CARBURETOR. There is a lot of informaTION ON THIS SITE ABOUT DOING JUST THAT.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you are running the computer all the sensors and vacuum lines have to be correct. Do not run it with the IAT in the air filter housing disconnected keep it plugged in and set it to the side when adjusting the carb. First off disconnect the battery negative for at least half an hour. Make sure everything is plugged in and all the vacuum lines are correct. Turn the idle air screws out 3 1/2 turn from lightly seated position and start the engine and let it come up to temp first. The idle stop screw by the throttle linkage should not be holding the throttle open the idle control motor should be controlling the idle speed. Unplug the idle speed motor and turn the idle air out for the highest rpm possible anywhere between 3 and 4 1/2 turns adjust them both a couple of times until the rpm only drops when you turn them in. Plug the idle motor back in and the motor should idle down to around 675-700 rpm. Double check the idle stop screw is not touching the throttle lever turn it in until the rmp rises then back out so the idle motor (computer) is controlling the idle. To set the curb idle turn the key to off the idle motor should fully extend unplug the idle motor and start the motor this is your curb idle. Adjust the position of the idle motor to around 1100 rpm lock it down and plug the idle motor back in it should idle down. Then to adjust the choke or high idle if you havent messed with it it should be ok but the adjust screw is on the bottom of the choke assy pointing back toward the firewall. When the engine is cold press the pedal once to the floor and start it. Use that screw to adjust the idle speed around 1200 rpm or wherever you want it but you want the choke to be fully open when the engine is around 140 degrees usually around 5 minutes if it is fairly cold out. The computer has to have all its inputs or it will go goffy on you never run it with any of the smog disconnected. Allways reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 1/2 an hour if you run it with any sensor disconnected. GL

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you have messed with the timing you will want to set it to 10 DBTDC with the spout wire disconnected lock it down and then adjust the carb again.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

im thinking im gonna do what 509 did eventually but, there was a recall on my B2 and it said they adjusted the timing to 6 degrees btdc should i keep it at that or do the 10 degrees like you said? Also i took pictures of several unconnected connectors on my B2 that i will post on here when i get home, also they have no where to go as far as i know. Im also going to do everything you said when i get home so ill post up here tonight or tomorrow.
Edit: i meant pete, switiching it over to duraspark which is something ive been thinking of for a long time now, i just didnt know it was the problem behind lack of power.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Sometimes just resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery for 1/2 and hour will do it make sure everything is plugged in before you start it. run it 20 mins and then pull the codes. If it is just a ect or act sensor they will bothe send the computer into limp mode and make it run like ass. You will definitely need to adjust the carb since you messed with it but for the initial setting just turn the air fuel screws on the base of the carb out 3 1/2 turns from lightly seated that should get you good enough to pull the codes. Start the engine and run it for 20 minutes to fully warm the engine up. I forgot you will want to erase the memory also with the key off enguage the code reader and turn the key on do not start it. when the reader starts giving you codes turn off the reader that will erase the memory then disconnect the batt - for 1/2 an hour to reset the computer. then run it for 20 mins at medium speeds and when the engine is still hot pull the codes KOER and write down the numbers as they flash. what you want to see is 11-1-11 if you get a pass code then it is more than likely a mechanical issue. You can pull the codes with a test light or a VOM (analog) look in the tech library here on how to pull the codes. EEC IV diagnostics.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

i dont have a code reader so i cant realy do that, but with the tuning like you said i got it WAY better so it will do until i put a duraspark in there or i was thinking MSD since i cant find duraspark in any of my local junk yards. Whats your oppinions on MSD ignitions?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Really not necessary for the 2.8 either the duraspark dizzy and module or you can use the HEI 4 wire module for cheap also. It uses the duraspark dizzy and real easy to wire up. The main thing is you have a mechanical advance the TFI dizzy is more than likely your main problem. You can pull the codes with a simple test light and a jumper wire.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Just hook a test light up where the VOM is and connect the jumper to enguage the test. Then turn the key on and count the flashes and write them down.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

Its been raining so i havent had a chance to go and check the codes but i do have a new problem now. Yesterday i pulled back into my parking spot after lunch and there was smoke coming from the hood coming straight out of the carb. Does this mean its too lean? i used the above posted method for tuning so idk what it is as it sits its probaly 2.5 -3 turns from lightly seated which is where the rpm just started going down, idk what the problem is and i dont really want to drive too much in case im burning my valves.

 

[PetesPonies]

Could mean your needle and seat are leaking. This allows the fuel level to get too high in the bowl. When you turn the engine off, fuels drips into the venturi. Everything is warm in there, it turns to vapor and exits out the top of the carb. This would effect your running too, especially at low fuel need situations. Shouldn't notice it much accelerating, but cruising and idling you would.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

I dont think its that ive gotta say this thing coasts and idles like a champ ( compared to what it was before kimcrwbr helped me )

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Have you changed the pcv valve sounds like blowby. Was the engine running at the time. If fuel is dripping in the intake manifold when the engine is turned off it will vaporize making it look like smoke but explosive in nature. A carb rebuild couldnt hurt make sure you do a wet float adjustment. If the float valve has a small leak when you stop it the pressure in the fuel line from the pump to the carb will flood the engine until the pressure drops. If I touch the throttle after stopping the engine when it is hot it makes for a hard start.