Axles for ranger(Debate)

[Will]

10.25 Sterling is far better because it's a full float axle...the other one is a semi-floater

The 10.25 came in semi-float as well. I would not say the full-float is far better installed in a Ranger. A Ranger isn't heavy enough to hurt either axle. You aren't using these for weight carrying, which is the advantage of a full-float axle. You just need the shafts and gears, which are the same dimensions.

 

[Toreadorranger]

The 10.25 came in semi-float as well. I would not say the full-float is far better installed in a Ranger. A Ranger isn't heavy enough to hurt either axle. You aren't using these for weight carrying, which is the advantage of a full-float axle. You just need the shafts and gears, which are the same dimensions.

I would disagree. ranger sized trucks break 1 ton and larger axles all the time. A FF is a great advantage to a truck even if your not hauling stuff. FF takes all the weight off the shaft allowing only torque to be counted for. It allows the shaft to take more abuse.

 

[Will]

A Ranger puts no weight on the axle.

 

[RangerSVT]

Any axle under a ranger is broke not by being bent (overweight), it is broke by breaking axles, gears, r&p, or carrier pin failures (torque ie-too much power, too much tire/traction)
SVT

 

[Shran]

The 10.25 came in semi-float as well. I would not say the full-float is far better installed in a Ranger. A Ranger isn't heavy enough to hurt either axle. You aren't using these for weight carrying, which is the advantage of a full-float axle. You just need the shafts and gears, which are the same dimensions.

The full floater is an advantage because you can remove the axle shaft without having to pull the diff cover and remove the c-clips. Any axle with c-clips is a disadvantage in an offroad rig.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

So if i got this right, Im hunting for a 99-up f-250(4x4 for both axles) with disc brakes. Do the sterling axles have a D.O.M # like dana or do I have to go by VIN#(to identify). I can always change the bolt pattern or change rims. I need bead locks anyway. but this will be the 9.75? If i go older though I can get the 10.5. If I go older i will have to convert to disc? How much strongre is the 10.5 over the 9.75 anyway? Is it worth converting? Thanks Rod

The 9.75 is an F-150 axle from 97 on up, for trucks with the 5.4L engine. Mine seems strong enough, knocking on wood I haven't broken it yet (I just tow with it though) The 97-03's have a metric 5 lug boltpattern, and the 04+ have a metric 6 lug boltpattern (and not the common one) I think disc brakes came out in '99.

When looking for F-250 axles watch out for the freaky F-250's dressed like an F-150 with 7 lug wheels, the rim choices for them are less than spectacular.

Any axle under a ranger is broke not by being bent (overweight), it is broke by breaking axles, gears, r&p, or carrier pin failures (torque ie-too much power, too much tire/traction)
SVT

You mean something in the axle has to break for an axle to be broken?

I think you would have to be trying awfull hard to break a 3/4 or 1 ton axle in a Ranger, they don't have the weight that the donar truck had to get the traction... and they for sure have nowhere near the power or torque. I think a shock load (a spinning tire suddenly getting a lot of traction under power) is your only hope of breaking one.

 

[4x4junkie]

You limit your wheel selection and the aftermarket for those axles isnt as good as a regular set of 1 tons (8x6.5)

Yeah I guess there's only like ~988,746 wheels available for 8x170mm vs 1,000,000 for 8x6.5" (I think the chances of finding a decent set of wheels remains pretty good

). I thought I saw someone (I forget who... Spidertrax maybe?) that was also making high-steer knuckles that accept the unit-bearing hubs... I guess it really would depend on what the ultimate goal is here (and what the build budget is) whether the older axle would offer more benefit or not. Later axles can be often times be found cheaper than the older ones.

 

[Toreadorranger]

I think you would have to be trying awfull hard to break a 3/4 or 1 ton axle in a Ranger, they don't have the weight that the donar truck had to get the traction... and they for sure have nowhere near the power or torque. I think a shock load (a spinning tire suddenly getting a lot of traction under power) is your only hope of breaking one.

I know of a couple rangers and ranger based buggies on 1 tons that have broke shafts. 1 tons arent these mythical beasts that people seem to think they are.

 

[Will]

The full floater is an advantage because you can remove the axle shaft without having to pull the diff cover and remove the c-clips. Any axle with c-clips is a disadvantage in an offroad rig.

That disadvantage is greatly exaggerated.

In a Ranger I'd rather have a 9.5" GM semifloat than a 10.5" GM full-float. The axle size isn't that much different and the 9.5" won't be dragging on the ground. Since I've not busted a 28-spline 8.8" I'm not going to be to worried about it. The 9.5" would be a huge upgrade in strength and keep the ground clearance.

Breaking a 10.5" shaft--I would like examples of how that was done with a Ranger.

 

[hotrod]

wow, a lot to chew on here. And a 7 lug bolt pattern?? I'm not too worried about bolt patterns as i can always get an adapter from advanced adapters(I think thats what its called) I might have to save up though as a 99-up truck even wrecked still brings alot of $. I think i would better off getting the whole truck then selling or scrapping it later instead of getting just the axles. thanks 4 the info.

 

[4x4junkie]

I'd avoid the 7-lug crap entirely. I'd be surprised if even adapters are available for it.

 

[86ford]

Find a 4wd f350 and part it out. The axles are worth a 1000 bucks in most cases so just part it out and make back what you can.

86

 

[Shran]

That disadvantage is greatly exaggerated.

In a Ranger I'd rather have a 9.5" GM semifloat than a 10.5" GM full-float. The axle size isn't that much different and the 9.5" won't be dragging on the ground. Since I've not busted a 28-spline 8.8" I'm not going to be to worried about it. The 9.5" would be a huge upgrade in strength and keep the ground clearance.

Breaking a 10.5" shaft--I would like examples of how that was done with a Ranger.

I agree with you, for our applications it's no big deal. Most of us are going to be running 37's or smaller so what we have is fine. I guess what I'm getting at is more for those that are running larger than 40" tires where being able to replace a shaft quickly would be an advantage and you need the strength.

 

[Toreadorranger]

That disadvantage is greatly exaggerated.

In a Ranger I'd rather have a 9.5" GM semifloat than a 10.5" GM full-float. The axle size isn't that much different and the 9.5" won't be dragging on the ground. Since I've not busted a 28-spline 8.8" I'm not going to be to worried about it. The 9.5" would be a huge upgrade in strength and keep the ground clearance.

Breaking a 10.5" shaft--I would like examples of how that was done with a Ranger.

Im an overkill type of person, Id rather drag the diff and go overkill with the axle then run something that is just OK. Anything can be broken, buggies that weigh alot less then rangers break one tons. If you are so worried about clearance, shave the diff. A 14 bolt can be shaved down pretty far.

 

[RangerSVT]

Just find a rolled F550 and use those axles....I doubt anyone can would have problems from a dana 110...
SVT