Axle flange bolt rounded

[avid]

Hi guys. I barely started to remove my transmission last fall and one of the 8 axle-flange bolts on the rear drive shaft rounded off. I've tried everything I can think of to get it off: heat, gear-wrench socket, filing the rounded-head down to 6-point, pipe-wrench, liquid wrench, etc.,. The only method I haven't tried yet is welding a new nut on it.

The only thing I can think is maybe I didn't heat it up enough using only propane, but then I was starting to worry about a plastic-looking seal on the back part of the flange. Any suggestions for how to remove this?

I should add there isn't a ton of room around the bolt head so not enough room to get my giant pipewrench on it.

 

[tw205]

I've has good a luck with these.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-Pack-Bolt-Extractor-Set/1003021030?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-LIA_TOL_218_Mechanic-Automotive-Tools-_-1003021030-_-local-_-0-_-0&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1drYyLyuhAMVEDjUAR1jHwHUEAQYAiABEgKZx_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Bgunner]

I was going to suggest the same tool only I have a Craftsman set.

 

[Curious Hound]

You'll probably get more heat with MAPP gas. I've heard that heating it up and applying a candle can draw the wax into the joint and assist with the removal. I have not had success with that method when I tried it. Honestly, my go-to at this point would be to weld a nut into it. But not everyone has a welder. You might need to seek help from someone better equipped.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

A cold chisel. Work around the perimeter in a counterclockwise direction. You're trying to peel the outside edge off without actually peeling the outside edge off...

 

[Curious Hound]

A cold chisel. Work around the perimeter in a counterclockwise direction. You're trying to peel the outside edge off without actually peeling the outside edge off...

Can't believe I forgot to recommend that. I usually have good success with it. I got a rusty screw off of a transfer case shift motor contacts cover that way a couple weeks ago. The security torx hole was messed up and the head of the screw was such a shallow dome that vice grips wouldn't grab it. Took me almost an hour to get that one tiny screw out.

 

[JoshT]

I'm amazed that you are having trouble with an axle flange bolt. Every one of them I've touched has turned loose. Took some force, but turned loose. I probably just jinxed myself on the donor Explorer.

Good luck with it and hope you get it soon.

 

[Curious Hound]

I’ve had to fight a couple of those at the junk yard.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Driveshaft bolts get yellow locktite from Ford. The stuff that says “must use heat to remove” and yeah, a propane torch won’t do. I’ve had decent luck most of the time getting them out without rounding them, but I have had to take a MAPP torch or real torch to it. Be careful and direct the heat away from the plastic. Could also use like a plumbers shield or something to help keep heat away from it.

 

[RobbieD]

A cold chisel. Work around the perimeter in a counterclockwise direction.

I usually have good success with it.

+ 1 - I would try that, too, as it's worked for me in a lot of stripped bolt head situations.

Use a sharp chisel to raise a burr on the bolt flange, then wail on it with a blunter chisel.

 

[SenorNoob]

If it comes to it, you should be able to cut the head completely off. Then just pull the driveshaft and get a small pipe wrench on what's left of the bolt.

Definitely save that as a last resort though..

 

[avid]

A cold chisel. Work around the perimeter in a counterclockwise direction. You're trying to peel the outside edge off without actually peeling the outside edge off...

I don't quite get what you mean by this. Would I be trying to fix the rounding, or is this trying to break the bolt loose from rust? Sorry for the dumb question.

Driveshaft bolts get yellow locktite from Ford. The stuff that says “must use heat to remove” and yeah, a propane torch won’t do. I’ve had decent luck most of the time getting them out without rounding them, but I have had to take a MAPP torch or real torch to it. Be careful and direct the heat away from the plastic. Could also use like a plumbers shield or something to help keep heat away from it.

This is what I was wondering, really, if some variety of industrial locktite would be on one or more of these bolts. This is what it seems like. The thing just does not want to break loose. I'll try MAPP gas.

If it comes to it, you should be able to cut the head completely off. Then just pull the driveshaft and get a small pipe wrench on what's left of the bolt.

Definitely save that as a last resort though..

I was wondering this too. I'd like to have this as a fail-safe because in all honesty I feel like I'm close. I'll try the MAPP gas to heat it and if that's still a no-go maybe' I'll just cut the head off.

Thanks everyone for your time and adivice. I'll update. When I get that off the plan is to drop the transmission and rebuild it or replace with rebuilt.

 

[Curious Hound]

I don't quite get what you mean by this. Would I be trying to fix the rounding, or is this trying to break the bolt loose from rust? Sorry for the dumb question.

It’s not a dumb question. The idea is to have the chisel dig in to what’s left of the bolt head almost at a tangent and use the hammer and chisel to try to rotate the bolt. I tried to stage a demo in this photo.

 

[RobbieD]

^^^ EXACTLY!

Your stripped bolt is flanged, which helps.

Here's a pic I grabbed off the web of a stripped oil drain plug that's been extracted by chisel. See how a "nub" has been worked into the flange?

Using care in the angle and placing of the chisel is important, and once you get the hang of it it does work very well.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Sometimes giving the head of the bolt a couple sharp raps with a hammer can shock loosen rust welded bolts. But you need access which you don't have.