Axle flange bolt rounded

[avid]

Gotcha! Makes perfect sense. Thanks for illustrating and explaining.

 

[Josh B]

I've seen a bolt welded onto a broken one with a torch and brought it right out of there. Of course giving due time for necessary steps to cool prior to proceeding

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I've seen a bolt welded onto a broken one with a torch and brought it right out of there. Of course giving due time for necessary steps to cool prior to proceeding

So far I haven’t had much luck with welding a nut on. I have been able to weld something on or blob it up enough to grab with vice grips or a small pipe wrench

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I've read to weld a washer on first, then weld a nut to the washer.

 

[Josh B]

So far I haven’t had much luck with welding a nut on. I have been able to weld something on or blob it up enough to grab with vice grips or a small pipe wrench

No sir, This was a bolt, with a un-distorted head, held in place with a channel-lock pliers and torch heat-welded onto the stuck one(I believe he got it white hot where it joined prior to letting it cool to a level water could be added to the equation), while we were sitting there eating lunch at a job I was on. Before we got done with lunch it was fixed

 

[Curious Hound]

I’ve used the “weld a nut on” method many times with good results. Most recently was a screw in the turbo housing on my Superduty. The screw started out with an 8mm 12-point head which got rounded off. The first nut I welded on didn’t hold. The second one held great and the offending screw backed right out.

 

[19Walt93]

I'd get something like what TW205 recommended, then heat the flange where the bolt threads in to loosen the locktite and turn the bolt out with a breaker bar of impact wrench. I don't think the hammer and chisel method will work good on a locktited bolt.

 

[Curious Hound]

I'd get something like what TW205 recommended, then heat the flange where the bolt threads in to loosen the locktite and turn the bolt out with a breaker bar of impact wrench. I don't think the hammer and chisel method will work good on a locktited bolt.

I think it’s already rounded. He’s going to need something to grab it that the breaker bar can attach to.

 

[19Walt93]

I think it’s already rounded. He’s going to need something to grab it that the breaker bar can attach to.

That's where the tool TW205 recommended comes in- it's like an extenal version of an easy out.

 

[Curious Hound]

That's where the tool TW205 recommended comes in- it's like an extenal version of an easy out.

If one of those will fit and grab, it’s a good option to try. There just isn’t much room for any bulky tool where that bolt head is. I’ve had trouble trying to get a 3/8”drive socket on those bolts.

 

[SenorNoob]

First ones I came across, had to buy a good 12-point boxed wrench. Then roll the truck for every one to get wrench over a jack to break them loose.

 

[JoshT]

I guess I'm just lucky with those bolts. The donor explorer is a former Ohio rust bucket. Who knows when or if the driveshaft bolts have ever been out. Breaker bar, no heat, and all bolts on front and rear broke loose. Still a PITA to get them and the driveshafts out, but the bolts turned loose with some persuasion..

 

[RobbieD]

I hate the driveshaft flange bolts, too. Each time I have to mess with them, I go through my collection of 12mm 12-point box ends to find the one that fits the bolts the tightest, and I use a floor jack handle to slip over the wrench as a cheater bar.

Unfortunately, the older you get, the less "ass" that you have.

 

[Curious Hound]

Unfortunately, the older you get, the less "ass" that you have.

My bathroom scale seems to argue that point.

 

[RobbieD]

My bathroom scale seems to argue that point.

There's a distinct difference; "ass" the verb is how much force to move an object, and "ASS" the noun is what makes bathroom scales scream, cry and beg for mercy.