Auto hubs permanantly locked on a '92?

[Alloutofdonuts]

After searching and reading a bunch of 'hub problem' and swap threads I'm going to say that the only option for me is to convert to manual hubs? Is that right?

I'm 99% sure the hubs are junk, there may be another porblem too but I think the hubs are the main problem:spinning/ticking sound and a clunk/bang from the front end, front wheels disengaging, etc.

There is no way to temporarily make the front hubs 'permanantly' lock? I know that sounds but I only use the truck to plow my yard right now and it's not working well with the front popping out...to say the least.

The situation(sob story) is that I'm trying to get by with what I have as $ is too tight right now to do a manual hub swap, but I AM going to do it in the spring or summer.

If making them lock destroys something thats ok as long as it is replaced with the manual hub swap.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Yes you can permanently lock them, you have to take them apart and weld them solid in the locked position, you know have drive flanges instead of hubs. Thats what I did with my old autos when I swapped to manuals for a set of tail spares.

 

[Alloutofdonuts]

Did you have to replace anything else that was effected by the welding when you did the manual swap that wouldn't have needed to be replaced otherwise?

It's just the outer part that gets welded? I mean the part that some times(always on mine)comes off with the wheel, inside that?

Thanks.

EDIT: I can't seem to figure out how it works yet, so I don't want to frig up and weld it in the unlocked position. Having to go to the boneyard to get another one isn't on my top 10 favorite things to do in the winter although I do like to going to junkyards otherwise.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

You have to disassemble the hub itself and weld the metal collar in the locked position.

When you swap to manual hubs from autos you have to change the spindle nuts to the proper ones for manual hubs, the auto nut is different.

 

[Alloutofdonuts]

EDIT:
I think I figured it out, the piece on the right in the pic moves up and down(or in/out on the truck)on the piece on the left. When it's up, or 'in' towards the rotor/bearings, etc. it's locked, is that right or am I way off here?

So if I weld that ring part with the 3 nubs on it on the collar like that it should be locked?

original mssg:
THanks. Is it obvious as to how it's locked and unlocked?

Just to be sure, you're not talking about the cam thing are you ?

Is it this part that moves in/out to lock/unlock that needs to be welded together(sitting on the left of the hub)?

(pic borrowed from fellow TRS member)

 

[Alloutofdonuts]

Bueller?

Anybody confirm or deny if I'm on the right track as far as how to weld the thing to permenantly lock the hubs?

 

[Alloutofdonuts]

Ha! I'm an idiot....and I just messed up one of my hubs, looks like I 'm going to the junkyard to do some shoveling.

Any pics of a welded hub floating around or a little write up? I thought I knew how the hub worked but obviously not

 

[Alloutofdonuts]

nobody?

 

[Sunk]

I did this to one of my manual hubs after it blew up. It's a little different from your autos, but the idea is the same. I just welded the outer piece to one end of the inner piece that fits over the shaft. The part of the hub hat that meshes with the outside of the outer piece was pretty messed up. I just slid this onto the shaft with the welded part toward the outside and put the hat over it. It took some wiggling to get it to sit on there, and I kept one spring behind it to make sure it stayed. I had no problems with it.

 

[Alloutofdonuts]

Cool, thanks Sunk.

Hmmm that's what I was thinking about doing to the other side. I didn't do it right the first time around, but I was wondering how to get the welded part back in with all the guts like that?

But it sounds like you didn't put the guts back except for the spring to keep some tension on it?

I'll give the other side a try...

 

[Sunk]

Yeah that hub was pretty fubar'ed. I think it was run half engaged or something. There was supposed to be a bearing in there and all I found where little chunks of metal. So yeah, I basically took the hub all apart and just use the piece shown with a spring behind to make sure it stays on the shaft. It's kinda hokey, but it works for now and I'll keep it for a spare when I pick up another working hub.

 

[Alloutofdonuts]

Well I took it apart and welded the collar on the outer part of the splined sleeve and put it back in. I didn't put any of the guts back though, I tried at first but I couldn't compress the spring and get the snap ring on too. But realized that it's not going to spin anymore, it should be ok. Basically it's just the splined sleeve and color in the hub now. I took pix but forgot the memory card and my phone doesn't like transfer pic to the computer, but it looks more or less like the pic Sunk posted.

I got another hub from the junkyard, man that wa sa major PITA with 4 ft of hard snow. That one seems to be working for now so I'll wait until it stops working to weld that one up. But the welded one seems to be working fine so far, just plowed the driveway and didn't get stuck once, and no more click click click click bang! It was a learning experience, thanks for all the helps guys!