At a cross roads

[4x4junkie]

Yeah the Duff drop arm should be fine with the Superlift kit (I have a Rancho arm on mine, a buddy runs a SJ #FA400 arm on his).

As for the Stonecrusher being "superior" to the Superlift (K-link), that may be debatable... As I mentioned, I don't have personal experience with the SC setup, however just by simply looking at it's geometry, it definitely is not "balanced" like the Superlift kit is.
With the SC setup, the driver side wheel will have some toe-in & out bumpsteer inflicted upon it (this due to the d-side's tierod pivot being moved up & down by the p-side linkage) while the p-side itself will have little-to-no toe change. I strongly suspect this is why the SC setup continues to gather some bumpsteer complaints.
The K-link OTOH, while also not ideal geometrically, at least both sides are balanced so that what little bumpsteer it does have tends to be cancelled out by both sides working in unison.

The only practical way to have 'perfect' geometry is with a crossover setup of some sort. However the complexity of it goes way up with a crossover, and to get the proper clearance with the 4WD diff in the way, you most likely would have to put some bends in the linkage (reducing it's strength to some degree). This would have to be weighed with what your needs or requirements are for it (jumping and/or other high-speed use, for example).

 

[FritzTKatt]

Got a call back from Chris at duff yesterday. Their coils are 350-525ppi progressive.

Hopefully by next week I'll have the kit ordered.

Now to see if Anthony can get back to me, or if I'm going with the superrunner.

EDIT: he did actually. says they don't do TTB's anymore because of people selling/swapping them. So they would have problems.

 

[brinker88]

Surprised I havent seen this thread yet. If you really want to make your TTB D35 survive with mild to moderate beatings I would suggest:

1.) C-clip eliminator
2.) 5-760X joints with full circle clips or caps tacked on.
3.) 37780 Warn Jeep hubs (HD version of the ford ranger warn hubs)
4.) Steering. Whether it be K-link or Stonecrusher (I have stonecrusher)
5.) extended radius arms with joints instead of bushings (Joints last longer on the trail and will flex better)
6.) Skyjacker or JD Pivot brackets (This is a MUST with a flexy suspension)

If you want some good ideas on where to go, take a look through Junkie's build or my build to get some ideas on custom applications. If you want to look @ the JD kit installed, take a look at Wizkids build.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Made my choice, now to cough up the loot.

I'm going full JD and superrunner (stonecrusher not available, and I'm not going to fab on my DD).

Already have 37780's, after basic training, more likely after Marine Combat Training I'll regear the whole truck to 4.10. Can do a c-clip eliminator then.

Maybe I'll have time for U-joints. Should make time... I plan to clearance the beams and inside the yokes anyway. Maybe if I can, I'll borrow a car and make some gussets on my beams at work.

 

[4x4junkie]

I would suggest 4.88 gears if you're thinking of 35" tires (4.0L). 4.10s are barely adequate for even 33" tires (what I have on my Ranger) though they would be ideal for 31s.

I also have been in the "fabbing on my DD" boat before. It sucks, but there are ways to do it if you plan everything out well.
Often what I did was get spare parts from a junkyard and then do all my fab work on those, then when done it's only a matter of swapping said parts over to the truck, making it a fairly quick job. If something doesn't fit or you make a mistake, you still have your stock (unmodded) parts to fall back on while you try to correct whatever issue it is you had on the modded parts. Downside is you end up with all your old stock parts laying around afterward. Certainly the borrowing of a car does help immensely if you can do so.

Be sure to get the dual-use coil buckets if you order the JD kit (not sure if the kit automatically comes with them or not). This will allow you to swap to different coils in the future (early Bronco/F-150 or XJ/ZJ Cherokee coils), as JD's standard buckets lock you into having to use stiff RBV-specific TTB coils.

Surprised I havent seen this thread yet. If you really want to make your TTB D35 survive with mild to moderate beatings I would suggest:

1.) C-clip eliminator
2.) 5-760X joints with full circle clips or caps tacked on.
3.) 37780 Warn Jeep hubs (HD version of the ford ranger warn hubs)
4.) Steering. Whether it be K-link or Stonecrusher (I have stonecrusher)
5.) extended radius arms with joints instead of bushings (Joints last longer on the trail and will flex better)
6.) Skyjacker or JD Pivot brackets (This is a MUST with a flexy suspension)

If you want some good ideas on where to go, take a look through Junkie's build or my build to get some ideas on custom applications. If you want to look @ the JD kit installed, take a look at Wizkids build.

Good list.

I will add that I've had no real complaints with the factory style bushings on my arms. However I finally did replace them (along with the pivot bushings) a few months ago after about 8 years of use.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Ordered the super runner 1134 last night.

Will hopefully be able to order the JD parts on monday.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Forgot about my damn spending limit incase of identity theft... had to wait until today to be able to order my kit. Chris said it should ship tomorrow. So maybe wednesday I'll have it?

Have to wait until early Feb to get my steering linkage. Everyone is out of them...

I'm curious to see how much "drop" the duff pitman arm has. If it's anywhere close to what's needed, I may very well just put it on and see how it goes. I know I'll be way too excited to put my shiny new things on my dirty rusty truck.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Well, got my kit in today.

Taking off work on friday to put the rear springs in, and maybe throw the trans crossmember in. Still have to wait for the steering linkage, so I won't be doing the front end. Although it is so damn tempting to put it on and see what happens. But who would've guessed the pitman arm is the same as a 4" style...

Not sure if I could do the coil buckets and radius arms, but leave my old 4" RC springs in (yeah, the shocks wouldn't be quite right either) without losing my alignment...

 

[racer1044]

Im at the same point as you with my truck. I cannot decide on which direction to go. Ill be keeping an eye on this thread hope to see some more updates soon. Maybe it will actually help me make up my damn mind...lol

 

[FritzTKatt]

I went duff stage 3 and superrunner. The duff parts are sitting in the garage, superlift has to make parts for me, won't get here till early february.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Got my superrunner early, yesterday.

Mini-rant... Duff... why the hell would you send me blue everything, but leaf springs and u-bolts? Not that I needed them, but also not provide the instructions for the leaf springs. Also did not include leaf spring bolts (had to go buy some, 3 of the 4 had to get cut off). The plate the u-bolts attach to doesn't fit over the nut holding the spring pack together. Had to grind the nut down. New shackles and hangers would be excellent, along with shock mounts. However, those parts are available from them at extra cost.

Otherwise I like the parts and quality. Still beats the RC kit (which will be for sale when I'm done)

More: coil buckets didn't line up quite right and had to torch the rivet holes out some to get it to line up. Transmission crossmember and radius arm brackets fit well. Radius arms are BEEFY. Haven't put them, or the driver side coil bucket in yet. All 4 shocks I received are the same part number, the rear shocks listed on the website are supposed to be different parts.

Since I put the truck on blocks, the front diff decided to leak, so now I get to undo that and see why it failed. Hopefully it won't be anything but the cover seal.

 

[racer1044]

Any updates? And as far as gearing goes its def not ideal but I DD 34x9.50 super swampers with 3.73 gears. It is a PITA sometimes but on flat ground I can cruise in 5th gear no problem. The clutch doesn't like it when I take off on a hill but for now it works.

 

[FritzTKatt]

Everything is together. Truck's at the shop for alignment on thursday (expecting hard rain tomorrow, so better to not drive out of whack).

The rear was pretty easy. Painted the springs blue, had to cut out all but 1 of the old spring bolts. If I was to do it again, I'd have new hangers, shackles, and shock studs ready to install, pull the bed and put it all in. Screw messing around under there.

The front pretty much dropped right out because I had the 4" lift on there before, impact gun made quick work of it. Coil buckets came out easy. Watch out drilling the driver side for the dual-shock mount, the ABS controller (at least it seems like it'd be that) is damn near on top of where the bolts need to go. Also the clutch line is just at the end of where the bolt is. You have to use a wrench on the spring retainer, because the Duff buckets are closed at the top... but they also have a provision for a positive coil retainer clip. It's 1/8x5/8" or so held in with 3/8" gr5 bolts. I trust that more than those damn triangle tabs on stock buckets. Buy the replacement lower buckets for the $50?, they seem a hell of a lot better.

The tranny crossmember drops right out, and the Duff bolts right in, everything is easily accessible. Lining up the trans and the bolt holes for it in the crossmember was a PITA though, and you can only get an open-end on those bolts. Radius arms don't seem like they would fit over the stock sway-bar brackets. I left them out.

Steering took some effort to get off with a pickle fork, but the super runner went right in and works amazing. It's just right with the 5.5" lift and "4 inch" pitman arm. BTW, the one Duff sent me is the exact same dimensions as the one RC gave for a 4" lift.

Why are all the shocks the same part number? I don't know (it was 8114 IIRC). What the hell are these little things that are rolled tube, like a wear-spacer for a bushing, but have hammered ends and a U cut into the hammered section? I got a couple for each shock. And lots of wear-spacers of different sizes.

Wire brushed most of the front end and sprayed with rustoleum rust converter primer, then their stock semi-gloss blue. From a distance, it matches the JD blue pretty good. Even sprayed most of the wheel well plastic for the hell of it. After I get it back from the alignment I'll probably do the steering system.

Overall, great kit. Not that hard to install, but those little things added up to a lot of time. Works as advertised, can't wait to test it out. Maybe if I get the chance I'll do a fork-lift flex test for pictures. But certainly will post up some pictures of it all.

 

[4.0B2]

PICS NOW!!! lol.

 

[FritzTKatt]

No can do... she won't be back until tomorrow.

So anxious to go off road now.