Article needed on lowering 1998+ Rangers

[Jim Oaks]

We need an article on lowering 1998 and new Rangers.

Anyone have anything?

 

[mjonesjr]

BUMP!

There are more and more lowered guys on here, there has to be something someone has on this.

 

[Casper98]

I think I might have a couple pics still from when I did mine. What kind of info are you looking for?

 

[mjonesjr]

A how-to.

 

[Hazmat Ranger]

I have some feelers out to various people with the newer truck. I will see what comes in and start to put together an article. I will shoot it to you mjonesjr for review. I have also started a thread in the lowrider section to get some feedback.

 

[mjonesjr]

Thanks! We need more info on lowered trucks.

 

[RedRocket2000]

Article Needed On Lowering

Well, if you have a 98+ Ranger that you want to lower, I suggest you do what I did; start by getting 2" lowering springs for the front from DJM (around $99), then get lowering shocks. You will also need cam bolts to correct front camber to properly align your truck. (I paid around $35.) That's all you really need for the front. For a 4" drop in the rear: shocks, a welder, and a plasma makes things really easy.Start by removing the rear axle from the truck. Mark your spring perches exactly 180 degrees from their current location on the top, and cut your perches off. Be Very careful positioning them back in place on the bottom of the axle and re-weld them in place. Put the axle back in and that's a clean 2" 4" drop. Their should only be 1/2 " difference of ride height front to rear.

 

[RedRocket2000]

Additional Info On Lowering

I forgot to say you should be very careful when unloading your coil springs on the front because they hold some but not a lot of tension even with front suspension hanging. Also, a fairly large pry bar for stubborn parts is pretty helpful. Remember to have it aligned ($50-100) when you're all done because tires aren't very cheap to replace all the time. Oh, and so you know, don't align it just yet if you wanted to go even lower, you can also replace your upper and lower control arms, and put drop spindles on the front to go really low, the only thing is you're going to need to modify the fenders for tire fitment. As for the back end, if you've done an axle flip, you can now install blocks to go lower, but your drive line angle will change dramatically, and you may even need to shorten it. (For those of you mini truckers who have had a tailshaft housing break, you know why.) The only way to correct the pinion angle is to use wedges and shim under the axle if your blocks aren't engineered to maintain correct pinion angle.

 

[Casper98]

I'll start working on a write up tonight if I have time, been busy with school and work.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Nobody has anything more to contribute to this?

Photos?

 

[Casper98]

I posted some pics a while ago I thought Hazmat was working on something

 

[Fx4wannabe01]

I may be doing my second DJM 4/5 soon...I suppose I could whip something up when it happens.

 

[mjonesjr]

Hazmat, did you get your article we discussed done and in?

 

[Casper98]

just found this not sure if it helps any
http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/0909tr_2005_ford_ranger_buildup/index.html

 

[frankserrano]

just found this not sure if it helps any
http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/0909tr_2005_ford_ranger_buildup/index.html

that's a really good, complete write-up on a lot of buildup options. good find, casper, that should help a lot of guys out.