Are the front bumper mounts strong enough

[vigness]

Needing to flat tow an '03FX4. I'll be pulling it with various big truck via the pintle hitch. The uber the valance bolt ons are WAY to low. Thinking about just pulling the bumper and replace it with some wide channel and add tow tabs. Are the front bumper mount holes strong enough for that, ar do I need to use and also use some side mount to the main frame rails?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The bumper mounting bolt holes (IMO) are strong enough. When I flat towed my race truck it's what I used for attachment points for a home built tow bar.
Dont forget to use a pair of chains from the toad to the tow truck.

 

[19Walt93]

If you're going to flat tow an automatic make sure you pull the driveshaft first.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you're going to flat tow an automatic make sure you pull the driveshaft first.

Good point. My truck is 4x4 5-speed standard and I put the transfer case in neutral when towing.

 

[vigness]

The transfer case is not a manual, but I have options.

Pay the dealership $100 for five minutes work to go in and enable flat tow in the 4x4 module, or make my Shifster MK2.

There is a neutral spot in the control between 4H and 4L. There is a procedure to put it there through the 4x4 module if it's enabled. ( You can do it from the dash on the newer trucks! ) My second is my Shifster MK2. I didn't like the idea of having to either crawl under, or cut a big hole in the floor to reach down. Have the pieces to make a shaft adapter to take the place of the shift motor that brings the control handle up through the floor for easy access.

 

[pjtoledo]

If you're going to flat tow an automatic make sure you pull the driveshaft first.

a point to ponder.....
pulling the rear drive shaft works fine with a 2wd or with PVH or manual front hubs.
what about the live front hubs models from 2000/1 on?
the front driveshaft is still driving the chain inside the tcase. is the splash lubing good enough for the chain and it's gear on the output shaft?

 

[vigness]

The front drive line is live from the hubs all the time on the 03 FX4, it's only connected / disconnected at the transfer case. Another reason that it will be a one year or so project.

I have a 98 4x2 that already has the disconnect drive line, tow bar pints, etc on it, but it needs some engine work. Going to have to post just to see if somebody near Kansas City can work on it.

 

[Curious Hound]

dealership $100 for five minutes work to go in and enable flat tow in the 4x4 module

Pretty sure that will be more than $100 and way more than 5 minutes. The shift module looks for combinations of contacts in the gearbox on the shift motor to determine the shift positions. There may not be a specific designed combination to tell the module where to stop the shift motor for neutral. Then the module would have to be programmed or the circuitry changed to look for neutral.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The transfer case is not a manual, but I have options.

Pay the dealership $100 for five minutes work to go in and enable flat tow in the 4x4 module, or make my Shifster MK2.

There is a neutral spot in the control between 4H and 4L. There is a procedure to put it there through the 4x4 module if it's enabled. ( You can do it from the dash on the newer trucks! ) My second is my Shifster MK2. I didn't like the idea of having to either crawl under, or cut a big hole in the floor to reach down. Have the pieces to make a shaft adapter to take the place of the shift motor that brings the control handle up through the floor for easy access.

I drilled a detent on my shifster like you plan. It's a simple mod and works well. Slipping under the truck isnt bad but have never had to do it in mud.

 

[19Walt93]

The transfer case is not a manual, but I have options.

Pay the dealership $100 for five minutes work to go in and enable flat tow in the 4x4 module, or make my Shifster MK2.

There is a neutral spot in the control between 4H and 4L. There is a procedure to put it there through the 4x4 module if it's enabled. ( You can do it from the dash on the newer trucks! ) My second is my Shifster MK2. I didn't like the idea of having to either crawl under, or cut a big hole in the floor to reach down. Have the pieces to make a shaft adapter to take the place of the shift motor that brings the control handle up through the floor for easy access.

Ford used to offer a neutral tow kit, it was basically just an indicator light and the module got reprogrammed so you could select neutral.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Pull the front shaft to

 

[don4331]

Ford used to offer a neutral tow kit, it was basically just an indicator light and the module got reprogrammed so you could select neutral.

But Ford shafted the developer and got hauled into court and lost. So, they can't legally reprogram the older Rangers. (or so the story goes).

I should have been more clear - if you only remove the rear driveshaft but leave the front axle connected:

If the transfer case isn't in "neutral" the pump isn't spinning and it would a short time before the spinning front driveshaft killed the rear output shaft.​

I have a BW1350 case split open on floor beside me, and there is definitely space between the high and low engagement points on the planetary (to prevent locking in both), but I can't find the spot where once you have pulled transfer case into 4 hi, that the front axle would disconnect on its way to 4 low (but things might be flexing just enough without the rear cover on...)​

The '19+ ones can be programmed for neutral as it is transfer case from different supplier, i.e. not Borg-Warner

 

[pjtoledo]

neutral is in the front of the tcase. it's actually just the "gap" between where the input shaft is disconnected from the output shaft in high range
and before the planetary is engaged between the input & output shafts to enable low range.
the rear driveshaft always spins the output shaft, where the pump is.
with live front hubs the front driveshaft is always spinning the chain and it's drive gear on the output shaft.
so if both driveshafts are turning, the chains drive gear really isn't spinning against the output shaft because they're both going the same speed.

 

[vigness]

It's literally a six to ten step process to enable the flat tow in the 4x4 control module, and most of those are just navigating to the right menu and selecting the correct vehicle. I have the the instructions for the NGS, the NGS+, and the WDS programmers. I just can't get to it via ForSCAN.

There are guys on the RV forums doing it electronically and with the Shifster for '98 on up 4x4 with no problem.

My Shisfter MK2 will have a flex extension on it to bring the control up into the cab, and the more I get pissed at the dealership, the more I'm looking at it vs. the reprogram. This is the dealer that tried to tell me the PCV valve on her Edge was part of the valve cover and I had to buy and have them install the whole thing, instead of fessing up it's the little $3 twist in valve.

 

[pjtoledo]

But Ford shafted the developer and got hauled into court and lost. So, they can't legally reprogram the older Rangers. (or so the story goes).

I should have been more clear - if you only remove the rear driveshaft but leave the front axle connected:

If the transfer case isn't in "neutral" the pump isn't spinning and it would a short time before the spinning front driveshaft killed the rear output shaft.​

I have a BW1350 case split open on floor beside me, and there is definitely space between the high and low engagement points on the planetary (to prevent locking in both), but I can't find the spot where once you have pulled transfer case into 4 hi, that the front axle would disconnect on its way to 4 low (but things might be flexing just enough without the rear cover on...)​

The '19+ ones can be programmed for neutral as it is transfer case from different supplier, i.e. not Borg-Warner

when I was checking out the innards of a 1354 the neutral gap was quite small. that was last year, I'd have to look it over again.
the front axle disconnecting is completely separate from HI/Low range. it's done by a gear sliding on the output shaft near the rear that couples the output shaft to the chain drive gear.
that funny looking cam thing operates both shift forks as needed either separately 4hi, or together 4lo