Anyone Use Solder Sleeves?


I use them nearly every day. I install used car GPS systems, The finance company doesn't lose cars that way. They work very nicely with a heat gun. I use a micro torch (butane) most of the time because it gets into a smaller space. You need to be really careful with the micro though because you can overheat them and melt through.
 
Awesome to get some more feedback! Hubby uses them sometimes in his job, but wasn't sure how well they'd work to put my whole interior wiring harness back together with. Another thing is he was wondering if a blow dryer would get hot enough or not...so we don't have to try to buy/borrow/rent a heat gun.
 
A bic lighter will work, Just make sure the lighter gets cool between splices.
I don't know about the blow dryer. Maybe one of those really big expensive ones.
 
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Honestly, at $.48 a piece I would say that is a bit overkill. For tail light wiring or engine compartment it would be worth the money but, interior...
I just use a common splice and tape on my own vehicles.
 
Mutant Pony,

Normally I would totally agree with you but...thing is we are having to COMPLETELY rewire the FULL DASH and the WHOLE Fusebox AND the transmission connections, as well as the Bulkhead connector on the interior side...not just a few wires. Hubby does NOT want to have to redo this any time in the near future...that's why the sleeves. And we are getting a bit better deal on them as well, as his employer uses them for their purchases.
 
I do not solder connections, or solder wires as automibiles have very few solder joints, if any. They use crimp connectors and stranded wire. If you solder the stranded wire, it becomes solid wire, and can break due to vibration and flexing. The crimped connector is stronger anyway, and the shrink reinforces the insulation.

I just did a Mahindra tractor that had water damage. Approx 25 wire splices, all crimp and shrink. It doesn't take that long.

Check the links.:)shady

http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2 books/links/sections/406 Solder Sleeves.html

Here's a "poor mans" solder sleeve. I use this method when soldering two conductors together.

http://aeroelectric.com/articles/PM_Solder_Sleeve/PM_Solder_Sleeve.html
 
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I got some sleeves that are crimped on, then throw some heat-shrink on them. They look like the inside of one of those plastic covered dealies you are talking about. Got them at radioshack in a variety pack for fairly cheap$ compared to .48 cents ea. I like them the best out of anything I've used thus far including soldering the wires together like mentioned. And I didn't just start doing this 2 days ago. Just my 2 sense.

Also, if you crimp them(or any crimp style connector) with dykes, it's not the way to do it and it will probably fail. I bought a Snap-on crimper and then a Klein Tools crimper (because I didn't like the snap on).
 
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I NEVER use crimp style butt connectors. Just asking for trouble. A common splice is FAR better.
 
Heck, I must be the oddball.

I only relay on doing a pro job with soldering and heat shrink. Then again I've been re-wiring full sized harnesses for over 15 years LOL.

S-

(yeah...I'm old and set in my ways, but I've yet to see any of my solder joints break or fail--and the stuff I work on? Makes a bumpy car ride seem tame)
 
Yea....butt connectors and scotch locks are a big no no...just asking for trouble. Get a good soldering iron (see Weller), some solder and shrink tube. Never use crimp on connectors.......
 
Yeah, most all wiring in automobiles use crimped connectors, so they must not be worth a damn. Most connectors fail because they were not properly crimped. You can't crimp a connector with a pair of pliers, or hit it with a hammer.

Solid wire is not a good idea in automobiles for the reason I stated previously. Chevrolet tried it in the 70s and it didn't work.

Solid wire, which is what a solder connection becomes, will break much easier than stranded. Plus, stranded wire will carry more current than solid.

A crimped connection is stronger than a soldered connection. Pull on a piece of solder and see what happens. If you will notice splices on high lines, they are crimped connectors.

A wire here and there that is soldered probably won't be a problem. But, if the wiring job is bigger, I use crimped. Much faster, and a better job.:)shady

Ron Francis automotive wiring systems says this:

Tip #45 -Splices are only for when there is no other choice. It should be done properly and with little or no solder. If you add too much solder and make a section of the wire stiff with lead, you will create the same thing as solid wire, which shoud never be used in a vibration filled vehicle.

Tip #47 -If the solder wicks up the wire strands further than the connector itself, the stranded wire is solid, and it will break with vibration. This is why solid core wire is not used on cars.

Tip #48-Only solder large items such as battery cables.

Tip #49-Always crimp the connection, then solder. You want to get air space out, which can trap gasses caused by the solder and cause corrosion.
 
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i gotta agree with shadetree on this,good crimper is a must!
 
I prefer crimping as well, just requires high quality connectors (not cheapo walmart ones) and a good crimping tool. Works awesome, rarely pulls apart or breaks if done properly
 

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