Anyone own a Powersharp chainsaw chain sharpener?

[blue83ranger]

I'm interested in getting the powersharp setup and was wondering if anyone owns one? Does it work pretty good? Worth the money? and do i have to get a different bar to use it? and for anyone who doesn't know it's a low profile chain that comes with a sharpener that you just slide on the end of the bar and push the saw against something and run the chain for about 3 seconds and it sharpens your chain. I've never done a self chain sharpening that was anywhere near as good as a new chain and figured i'd see how people like this setup before i spend the big bucks for it. So, thanks for any info. and here's a link to their site http://www.powersharp.com/

 

[gribly]

I'd just get a chain sharpening kit, one with the special vise and all the tools and files. That doesn't look like it will work half as good or even get the entire chain sharp...

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

A Dremel works great.

 

[Shran]

A Dremel works great.

x2. So do good old fashioned files. Never have been able to figure out why sharpening a chain is such a big deal.

 

[t0x1k]

This way of sharpening is actually horrible. It wears the top of the tooth away allowing it to weaken and possibly break off. A file or a real chain saw sharpener that uses an angle grinding wheel sharpens the semi circular cut out of the tooth.
For the average consumer it may be alright. There is nothing better than doing it the hard way.
I sharpen chain saws pretty much every week and the grinder gives a razor sharp edge.

 

[willievhook]

What kind of saw do you have? I tried to use their "Selector Guide" to try and price check them, and all of those saws are little.
A real chainsaw grinder works awesome, and you can easily find them for $100 or less. But even with just a file, you should be able to get the chain sharper than it was new.
Perhaps the reason you've never gotten a chain, "anywhere near good as new" is because you don't file down the rakes when you file your chain. The rakes determine how much wood the teeth will bite into, the more rake=less cutting....hope this helps

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I'd be suspicious of that setup... sharpening the top of the tooth and it's got that "too good to be true" sound to things (which usually ends up being that it really is too good to be true).

I bought the sharpening setup for a Dremel a LONG time ago. Used it several times and it works alright. But I discovered that when you spend a whole day cutting, the chain will often need sharpened during the day - and if you're out in the middle of nowhere there isn't really any place to plug the dremel in.

So I got a set of good files and learned how to use 'em. If I can find a handy log configured to the right shape to make it easy, I can make a chain razor sharp in just a few minutes with a file and no special guides. If I can't find a handy log to get comfortable on to sharpen it, it tends to take me a little longer, but still in no more than 10 minutes I can sharpen a chain on a 20" bar and knock down the rakes a little. The rakes are actually harder to knock down than it is to sharpen the teeth. I do have a little Oregon guide for that, although the file that came with the guide was about worthless. I bought a 6" Nicholson mill-bastard flat file that works great for it.

 

[blue83ranger]

I mainly use a stihl 015av for the smaller stuff with a 16 inch bar and a husqvarna 55 with a 18 inch bar for the bigger stuff. The stihl's chain and bar are pretty new and that chain is so sharp i have to lift up on the saw because it doesn't have enough power to keep up with the chain. I guess i need to look up step by step instructions on how to do a good sharpenging job. It seems like it would be just common sense but it just never works out as good as a new chain, and that's just a huge waste of money to by chains that often.

 

[willievhook]

That Stihl is small and underpowered. If I were you I would just stick to the rancher for your cutting needs. It's still a relatively small saw and will handle almost any thing you throw at it with a properly sharpened chain.

Do you have any pictures of that Stihl? Those are quite old lol

 

[Shran]

I mainly use a stihl 015av for the smaller stuff with a 16 inch bar and a husqvarna 55 with a 18 inch bar for the bigger stuff. The stihl's chain and bar are pretty new and that chain is so sharp i have to lift up on the saw because it doesn't have enough power to keep up with the chain. I guess i need to look up step by step instructions on how to do a good sharpenging job. It seems like it would be just common sense but it just never works out as good as a new chain, and that's just a huge waste of money to by chains that often.

I think what you said is the best thing anyone can do. FWIW I have a Stihl 011avt that is about the same as what you have.

 

[blue83ranger]

I don't have any pictures of it, but if you want some i could shoot a few, i would just have to send them straight to you (I have dial-up). I did borrow a newer used purchase my dad has, a stihl 028WB with a new bar and chain and power and sound wise that thing is just crazy insane compared to what I use.

 

[willievhook]

I don't have any pictures of it, but if you want some i could shoot a few, i would just have to send them straight to you (I have dial-up). I did borrow a newer used purchase my dad has, a stihl 028WB with a new bar and chain and power and sound wise that thing is just crazy insane compared to what I use.

Oh don't worry about it then, I just remember my grandpa having one like 10 years ago and it looked old then.

Lol, I have an older MS 460 for work. My boss picked up a brand new MS 880 a couple weeks ago, 36 inch bar.....that thing is badass, almost 9 horses'. It only weighs like 30 pounds and costs like 500 less than my truck was haha

 

[Turbo-T]

That thing grinds away the case hardening on the top of the tooth. I've had a Craftsman and a McCulloch with self sharpening chain systems on them. They were a failure. I sold the Chraftsman and ended up giving away the Mac.
My current saw is a 40 year old Homelite with a 20" bar. It's heavy, it's loud, and It'll cut as good as any newer saw. Oh, none of it is plastic either.

 

[Shran]

My current saw is a 40 year old Homelite with a 20" bar. It's heavy, it's loud, and It'll cut as good as any newer saw. Oh, none of it is plastic either.

I used to have a McCulloch that my local saw shop dated to 1961ish...that thing was a beast! Nothing I've had since would even touch it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I used to have an old Mac 10/10. Thing stopped running right and I gave it to a buddy who said he could fix it. Never got the saw back, my buddy got kicked out of his house and I haven't seen him since.

Dad has two Poulan saws, the one has a 16" bar and ran good for awhile, now it will usually start but stalls as soon as you try to cut something. Not sure what to do with it. The other is a "Pro" grade with a 20" bar that works half decent. I haven't really been overly happy with either.

Before those two dad bought a Craftsman with a 20" bar. Ran it for awhile then the bar Vee'd out and the chain was about shot. Went back to Sears and they told him a new bar an chain would be like $150 and he had bought the whole saw for like $170, lol. So it got stuck in the back of the shed and forgotten about for a couple years. I dug it out one day and dad told me I could have it if I could get a bar an chain for it. Called up Oregon and spent a lil time on the phone with them to get a part number for a replacement bar an chain. I <3 that saw, with a sharp chain it's a monster. Which is kinda surprising since it's not a big "pro" grade like a Stihl or Husky.

I keep eying up a new Husky, been looking at the Rancher an such. Perhaps someday when my wallet permits me...