Any TFI Experts?? Having IM difficulties . . .

[kpbrogdon]

If I had the option, I would just do the Duraspark conversion, get a little 4 barrel and be done with it but unfortunately we have IM testing in Anchorage and the best I could do is get a seasonal pass . . . it passes all of the visual and functional but fails at the tailpipe.

I have an 84 B2 and I 'rebuilt' the 2.8 over the Summer (hone job, new rings, valve grind and other head fixes, etc). I have everything back together and running but it won't pass IM and I'm not sure what more I can do.

I rebuilt the 2150 and I'm pretty confident that the carb should be in good shape (the rebuild went well, no surprises, very simple carb) - it initially ran like crap but I replaced the 02 sensor which helped a lot . . . but not enough.

I have the timing set at 10 btdc (with the spout disconnected) and have the idle mixture screws out about 2 full turns.

I also replaced the stock coil with one from MSD - new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, stock distributor (seems fine).

I did a compression check just to make sure that everything was sound internally and all cylinders where between 170 and 180.

Does anyone have any suggestions, hints, stories on how they got theirs to pass, ?? - anything that might lead me to a solution to getting a feedback carb/TFI setup to pass emissions? The smog jockey thinks it's a timing issue but there really isn't too much I can do there since the mighty 1984 computer is controlling that . . . I was thinking of maybe getting an MSD ignition box to see if that would help it burn cleaner but I'd rather not toss a couple (more) hundred dollars at a problem if it isn't going to work.

Thanks for anything - Kirk

 

[enginepaul]

Pull codes first.

 

[dangerranger83]

Your computer controls the advancing of the timing.

Another guy on here had problems passing emissions with his 2.8, replaced everything and it came down to having to put a new CAT on it and he passed with flying colors.

 

[kpbrogdon]

Engine codes

Pull codes first.

Thanks - Completely forgot about the diagnostic codes . . .

On the EOER (Running) - I cleared the codes a few times and these keep coming up.

13
23
24
25
31
32
33
34
58
77

On the Engine off, I'm getting

23
24

I do have the idle set pretty high to keep it running . . . 31-34 seem to suggest that the EGR is bad

 

[kimcrwbr1]

fist thing first

start with ISC motor that controls idle without that working other codes seemed to come up for me the computer controls the idle do you have a manual. back off of the idle screw and see if it takes control. I take it you got it timed correct 10 DBTDC check for proper grounds and for 5 volts in to all the sensors throttle position, egr position ect I could never get rid of code 31 is a bitch my email is kimcrwbr1@aol.com I went through every wire and control so can walk you through it. Erase hard and on demand codes as you go to confirm proper operation. the throttle motor and position sensor need to work together for everything else. Also is your egr clean and working I could go on and on so start and fix codes in order I am going duraspark as soon as I get the parts in my 83 ranger so email me with Qs it is all real fresh in my mind Kim

 

[kimcrwbr1]

codes

23 idle too high
24 air charge tem out of range in the filter can is your tube that adds warm air from the exhaust connected and is the door working properly it pulls air from around the manifold till it gets warm then it closes and brings in ambient air also clean or replace the sensor you can check it`s resistance for proper values. air charge and engine temp effect idle alot. Kim

 

[kimcrwbr1]

test

what part of the test did you fail the idle or running speed

 

[Eric Kropp]

Two full turns out would fail my Ranger at Idle for sure. Did yours fail at the high or the low.

Eric

 

[kpbrogdon]

It failed both - I'm sure I can lean it out enough to pass the idle test once I get everything else figured out (famous last words).

On the cold air intake valve in the air cleaner (#24) - where should the vacuum source come from for that? I currently have it connected to the outlet at the bottom of the air horn on the carb but it doesn't seem to draw anything - I guessed when I bolted everything up and have never been sure if that was correct or if I should route it directly to manifold vacuum.

Appreciate the responses,

Kirk

 

[Eric Kropp]

Does your truck still have the vacuum diagram on the front by the radiator? They are available from Autozone online. They are not real easy to follow, but it can be done. I would think the first thing you should do is be absolutely certain your vacuum line routing and connections are right. I don't have any experience pulling codes, but I would also think that would be the ticket. I need to "get over that hump" and learn to do that.

Eric

 

[dangerranger83]

How old do the vehicles have to be in Alaska before they are exempt from emissions? My state doesnt do it, some states are 25 years and older and Cali. I think its 35 years and older.

 

[kpbrogdon]

I wish - Here they just made a straight cut off of anything 1968 and newer . . . It wouldn't bother me if they just made everybody pass a tailpipe test but why should they care what I have under the hood so long as it runs clean? Why should I have to keep an ignition system that has killed numerous people by it's inopportune failures?

But I digress . . .

Eric - I do still have the vacuum diagram (although the pink, orange and red lines have faded and kind of look the same now). Everything is connected correctly - I think the line to the air cleaner just says 'carb' but I'll double check tonight when I get home.

Kirk

 

[kimcrwbr1]

vacuum

Yea the air door works on manifold vacuum when cold pulls from around the exhaust manifold. check that you have vacuum at the vacuum motor or door and that the door opens then unplug it to see if it closes. ther should be a vacuum diagram under the hood. the regulator i guess its called is the little round metal thingon the bottom of the air cleaner controls the door and shuts the vacuum off when warm

 

[Eric Kropp]

There is at least one vacuum line that connects to the front of the carb. more on some carbs. like mine from California. I think there is a line that connects to something called an altitude compensator or something like that and mine has a second line that connects right near the drivers side idle/air mixture screw. I think you might want to look at the cat/conv too. I think what ever is causing the low fail is probably causing the high fail. Cat/conv. could cause both. I am in the same boat as you, as far as emissions. In California it has to do with when the car is made not how old it becomes. I think it is all vehicles 1977 and newer have to be working the way they did when they left the factory.
With a fresh engine, yours should pass smog nicely once you get bug out of it.

Eric

 

[kimcrwbr1]

must of got er goin

just wonderin if you got it dialed in what did you find out Kim