Any one tried this? Home Brew Borg Warner 1354 elec to manual conversion.

[kid_crash]

Has any one here tried this setup? Looks pretty simple. I'm thinking about giving this a whirl on my '01 Ranger. The only question I've got, is if my 4x4 control module is not functioning, will I still have indicator lights telling me what range I'm in? Also, will shifting into neutral, and depressing the brake still allow me to shift into low range.
Any input is appreciated.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1160665-ranger-4wd-manual-shift-conversion.html

 

[RonD]

With the shift motor removed there would be no indicator lights, the contacts for those are in that housing, thats how the Module tells if shift is successful.

Google: shiftster

Manual conversion, but you have to get under vehicle to use it, also no lights.

Often wondered if you couldn't use two of these, one on the transfer case and the other mounted inside with cable attached between the two, they would be synchronized and the pull out turn would lock them in the right places, or should, lol.

 

[kid_crash]

Yeah I'm not crazy about the shiftster set up. I'm thinking of just trying a new control module. The more I think of it the more I'm leaning towards keeping it original. I'll keep my eyes open for a manual transfer case set up, once I get my funds built up a bit.

 

[Scamp73]

That shiftster is awesome. I'm not sure the price yet. Keep one of those in your tool box in the back just in case the shift motor fails. It only takes 5 minutes and a 10mm socket to remove the shift motor.

 

[bobbywalter]

the shiftster (if you can find one) is great for emergency situations.



but, theres loads of guys in fullsize trucks that just use a right angle drill drive with small square tube up through the floor with a long bolt to turn it. see that ice fishing often because of the corrosion here in the rustbelt makes old pos trucks wiring disasters. the hole is larger in the floor with a little rubber boot from the ones i have seen that are said to work best, they go out of gear on rough trails, i can see where a hose to the drive could help with that. i keep one around for the b2 just in case i find it necessary to do. way easier to find an e shift case then a manual for rbv. but i do have a rbv manual case if i need it for the b2. but that is only if the case in it explodes or i need a doubler.


they go on the triangle shaft like an engineered match. locked down with a strap to the mount holes and the drive part simply ground flatish on two sides with a set bolt to hold the square tube. so it is a mod that can be built with only a drill and hand tools by anyone. i cant believe there is not 15000 gogoolz pages on it

i would make a lock plate and maybe run the hose as an intermediate shaft if i find this necessary to do. i sure as hell wont buy a new motor or controller or dick with bad wiring if mine...or rather WHEN mine fails.. but the guys i have talked with said they did stay in 4 hi and low pretty good on flat ground with just the hillbilly fix.. i have had issues with that myself, maybe its a wear issue.

and if you need a light to know what range your in....you dont need to do this mod.