Any experience w/ Rust-Oleum "2-in-1" SANDABLE Primer?

[fixizin]

Thin voids? Spot putty. Comes in a tube. Usually used for filling in pinholes and small divots as a close to last step.

Yeah I got a tube of that (red-color, Bondo brand), practiced a little on a piece of rough-surface wood... not convinced it gets into all the tiny voids, even when smeared with a Bondo flexible spreader... more practice needed.

 

[sgtsandman]

OK, lastly, how to strip WAX before getting into da Priming and da Filling, i.e. right now I've got the whole hood slathered in Meguiar's carnauba wax, but obviously I need to get every last bit of it out of the pits and voids, and even from the "good" areas, before the sanding and priming... MINERAL SPIRITS??

Dawn dish soap generally is a good way to go in order to strip everything off along with a fine scrub pad. There are different grades of scrubbing pads, fine is usually white but the color does tend to vary with them. Don't use green (medium) of red (coarse).

 

[Shran]

Yeah but, Rust-o brand self-etching primer, right on the bare metal, should be compatible with follow-on coats of Rust-o sandable primer, yes/no?

Should be. Where I had the most problems was applying paint right over etch primer, or where I had many layers of other primer over the top of the etch primer, but had sanded through those.

I haven't been able to confirm this but I think all etch primers are not created equally. I have used the Rustoleum stuff you're talking about and whatever is in it, is pretty weak. They also make "high build" etch primer. I would think both of those are intended towards the average guy that doesn't have a paint degree.

I used Nason, NAPA and one other brand when I was paint my truck. Those are all "professional" grade products and you have to be very careful not to sand through subsequent layers and then spray base coat over that spot... it'll bubble up. You can never use any base coat or lacquer/enamel directly over it either...it'll bubble. You have to cover it completely with primer and preferably epoxy or other 2k primer... I even had problems with cheap spray can primers bubbling.

The pro grade stuff is actually very irritating to use. From what I read a lot of people don't even use it anymore and will do epoxy right on bare metal. A lot of primers & paints are actually OK to spray on bare metal, just have to read the tech data sheets, and look to see if it is DTM (direct to metal) compatible.

For your purposes though I think what you intend to do will be just fine.