Anti-Slosh Module Gone Bonkers

[RonD]

Good read here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/getting-the-fuel-gauge-to-work.140669/

But first.........................
Key OFF and battery cable disconnected any time you are working on electrics

When you have the cluster out you should test the Yellow/White wire on one of the wiring harness plugins, it comes from the sender in the gas tank
It will be the only Yellow/white striped wire
You need a OHM Meter
set for 200 ohms, if it has a selection
Touch the two probe tips together and you should see 0 ohms in the display, Ohm meter is working if so
Put one probe on the yellow/white wire and one probe on a Ground
Ohms don't have polarity and don't need electricity, meter has battery in it used for OHMs testing

Up thru 1988 Ford used senders that show 73ohm EMPTY, and 10 ohms FULL
So if you have a pre-1989 Ranger then you should see Ohms in that range on that wire
And you can rock the truck, to get gas in the tank sloshing around, and you should see the Ohms change, that means sender is working, float is going up and down in the tank

1989 and up use 16 ohms EMPTY and 160 ohms FULL, so opposite and wider range, same tests though

If yellow/white wire shows 0 ohms or under 8 ohms that means its shorted to ground somewhere or sender is

If wire shows no change(no connection) when tested, then wire is disconnected somewhere or sender is

If yellow/white wire tests as OK...........then you can replace or by-pass slosh module

 

[tw205]

Good read here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/getting-the-fuel-gauge-to-work.140669/

But first.........................
Key OFF and battery cable disconnected any time you are working on electrics

When you have the cluster out you should test the Yellow/White wire on one of the wiring harness plugins, it comes from the sender in the gas tank
It will be the only Yellow/white striped wire
You need a OHM Meter
set for 200 ohms, if it has a selection
Touch the two probe tips together and you should see 0 ohms in the display, Ohm meter is working if so
Put one probe on the yellow/white wire and one probe on a Ground
Ohms don't have polarity and don't need electricity, meter has battery in it used for OHMs testing

Up thru 1988 Ford used senders that show 73ohm EMPTY, and 10 ohms FULL
So if you have a pre-1989 Ranger then you should see Ohms in that range on that wire
And you can rock the truck, to get gas in the tank sloshing around, and you should see the Ohms change, that means sender is working, float is going up and down in the tank

1989 and up use 16 ohms EMPTY and 160 ohms FULL, so opposite and wider range, same tests though

If yellow/white wire shows 0 ohms or under 8 ohms that means its shorted to ground somewhere or sender is

If wire shows no change(no connection) when tested, then wire is disconnected somewhere or sender is

If yellow/white wire tests as OK...........then you can replace or by-pass slosh module

It’s an 89. Test was 64.6 slosh around 58.3. How do I bypass. Thanks.

 

[RonD]

Its in the link above, with pictures

 

[tw205]

You are quickly becoming my favorite person. Thank you so much.

 

[helpme]

I didn't have to remove the cluster. Not sure about other rangers.
After removing the 4 screws holding the cluster, I was able to pull it out about 1 inch.
Then tilting the cluster to the right, its accessible right there on the left side between the cluster and the dash.

 

[helpme]

Now, why do they have an anti-slosh module in the first place? None of my other (older) vehicles had one.
The only reason I keep this truck is because it doesn't have to pass emissions anymore. When the catalytic converter became a dog-alytic converter, (it was dogging the engine down), I converted it to a non-alytic converter. And the truck runs like a champ now!
I was planning to buy a used Escape but I've heard they're a real can-of-worms!

 

[RonD]

Now, why do they have an anti-slosh module in the first place? None of my other (older) vehicles had one.
The only reason I keep this truck is because it doesn't have to pass emissions anymore. When the catalytic converter became a dog-alytic converter, (it was dogging the engine down), I converted it to a non-alytic converter. And the truck runs like a champ now!
I was planning to buy a used Escape but I've heard they're a real can-of-worms!

Older metal gas tanks often had baffles inside so fuel didn't/couldn't "slosh" the full length of the tank, so they broke up the big waves
Others had a damper on the float so it couldn't move very fast
And others used a Capacitor or two on the sender wire to stabilize voltage/ohms

 

[helpme]

Thanks Ron. I didn't know that.
So what do you think about those DOHC 3.0's used in the Escape. Are they as bad as they say?
Thanks.

 

[RonD]

Never had a vehicle with the 3.0l Duratec engine, so can't say personally

But from a general look at this engine and the number of them that were used vs the number of complaints, this was a reliable engine

 

[vwnut]

Good read here: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/getting-the-fuel-gauge-to-work.140669/

But first.........................
Key OFF and battery cable disconnected any time you are working on electrics

When you have the cluster out you should test the Yellow/White wire on one of the wiring harness plugins, it comes from the sender in the gas tank
It will be the only Yellow/white striped wire
You need a OHM Meter
set for 200 ohms, if it has a selection
Touch the two probe tips together and you should see 0 ohms in the display, Ohm meter is working if so
Put one probe on the yellow/white wire and one probe on a Ground
Ohms don't have polarity and don't need electricity, meter has battery in it used for OHMs testing

Up thru 1988 Ford used senders that show 73ohm EMPTY, and 10 ohms FULL
So if you have a pre-1989 Ranger then you should see Ohms in that range on that wire
And you can rock the truck, to get gas in the tank sloshing around, and you should see the Ohms change, that means sender is working, float is going up and down in the tank

1989 and up use 16 ohms EMPTY and 160 ohms FULL, so opposite and wider range, same tests though

If yellow/white wire shows 0 ohms or under 8 ohms that means its shorted to ground somewhere or sender is

If wire shows no change(no connection) when tested, then wire is disconnected somewhere or sender is

If yellow/white wire tests as OK...........then you can replace or by-pass slosh module

The reference to the post at the top of the page shows an older module with 5 pins.
Have you ever seen the by pass method on a newer (99) module with 8 pins?