Another Duraspark convert...

[WWard]

Hello All,
I'm new to this site, but have owned my '85 Ranger for about 14 years. The whole time Ive had it I have always had trouble getting it to pass emissions. So for about the past 6 years it has just sat on the side of the house and has been ignored until it became exempt.

When I fired it up a month ago, it ran like a$$...but I expected that. I bought a rebuild kit for the carb since I had noticed a fuel leak from the accelerator pump and did the whole carb fresh again. Still didn't help it run any better, but cured the leak. It would'nt idle at all without feathering the pedal. I ended up having to turn the idle mixture screws out about 5 to 6 turns to make it idle. But the Fumes...( Oh Your God !!! )

Looked around online for info and help to make it run like I remember it used to, and this site seems to be the place that pops up the most.

So reading thru the threads in the 2.8 section I found about the duraspark conversion...hmmm...why not, couldn't run any worse. After 2 weeks of reading all that I could find out about this mod, all the help, issues, technicalities and problems involved, I decided to jump in and start clearing the trash from the engine bay.

I bought all the parts new, except the carb. Couldn't find one that was compatible, and the schmuck at O'Reilly's kept talking about the electronics that would come with the replacment '79 Pinto carb. Couldn't seem to get him to understand that I didn't want all the feedback controls..that was the purpose of this conversion. So anyway decided for now to keep my stock '85 carb and make a metering block. ( At least for now. )

Then the fun began....cutting wires ... bending metal ... drilling holes ... rearranging components ... Got it running and the throttle response felt a bit spunkier. Got it idling, altho very rich and while looking up info to help set the mixture better and set the timing, the engine stalled...I kept digging thru my manual looking for info, then called it a night. Turned the key off and went inside.

The next day I tried to start it and no spark...WTF? I thought maybe my 14 year old Accel Super coil failed so replaced it with an MSD Blaster 2, still no spark. Dig thru the site some more and "now" i find out, "Don't leave the key in the run position for extended periods.." So I replaced the module with a new one and we are happy to be running again. Then I find a fuel leak from the fuel pump....switched that out with an electric fuel pump ( cause I didn't want to dig down in that greasy nasty looking location to replace the mech pump )

All in all the engine bay looks much roomier, truck runs much better now But not great...I still have alot of work to do.

Here is where I stand right now...

I still have an erratic idle after it warms up...surges from 900-1400 rpms. ( But at least it stays idleing for the most part. )

I still need to make a metering block..( don't know if that will help the surging idle. )

The idle mixture screws are about 2 turns out right now..( much bettter than the previous 6 turns. )

I know I need the valve seals. ( but down the road a bit. )
I need to adjust the valve lash.

All in all....much happier with the look and feel after this conversion.
Thanks to everybody involved with posting info to this site. It is greatly appreciated.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Welcome the first thing I suggest is put it on a vacuum guage. It sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. My feedback carb with the metering block still needed about 3 1/2 -4 turns out to run good. The best way to adjust the carb first off turn your idle jets about 2 turns out from lightly seated set the timing at 10-12 dbtdc with the vacuum hose plugged then plug the dizzy into the manifold vac at the tree adjust the idle stop down to about 800 rpm then turn your idle jets out to either the highest vacuum or idle for both then idle it down to 800 rpm again. do that a couple times til it dont budge. I dont know how you did the air bleed for the metering block but I just left the screw for the small port closed because your adjusting the air fuel with the needles, And for the hight run it about 3500 rpm and adjust the air bleed for the best performance. You should get around 17 to 20hg vacuum pressure at an idle and around 20 at 3500 rpm. I think the best thing I did was the valve guide seals and a new muffeler. Oh yea once you get the idle ar screws adjusted check that they are no further than 1/2 turn between then in then back out. Dont worry too much on how far the idle screws are turned out it dont effect mileage much if any you wont have to push the skinny pedal as far down. GL keep us posted either way.

 

[WWard]

Thanks kimcrwbr1...

I did disconnect the vacuum line from the dist. and plugged it while setting the timing. I tried to get as close as I could to 12* with the erratic idle.

I also haven't made the metering block yet, so the original metering solenoid is stilll attached for now.

Also I thought the dist. should get vacuum from the back of the carb ( pic included below ) instead of manifold vacuum off of the tree. If I'm wrong in that respect I will change the routing.

And since you mentioned that on your metering block you just keep the small screw closed since the low speed idle mixture is being set from the idle screws in the front, would there even be a need to drill out for the small air bleed circuit in the first place? Would it work out if I just did the large hole only for the high speed bleed?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

yea move the vacuum for the dizzy to the tree you have it where the pull of is for the choke just plug that port if you dont need it. It goes thru a really small orifice and you wont get a quick responce on the foot feed. That is correct on the metering block you can always add a idle port on it but for now just play with the needles for the highest rpm idle or highest vacuum reading. I found the best way to find and isolate a vacuum leak is with a piece of vacuum hose put one end up to your ear and the other end to the fittings and gaskets. Dont try and clean the PCV they are only a couple of bucks and depending how bad your blow by is put one in from a V-8 so it dont plug as quick and change it regular it will f with you also. You can get the electric choke working also put a pull off back on it I have a choke thermostat for a earlier carb that runs off battery voltage and wired it to the old computer power wire or just tap in off the coil posative so it is switched. I took a small chisel to turn the three snap screws out that hold it on and jus put reg screws there so you can adjust it. I also wired the two vapor solenoids with the choke wire and ran the vacuum to the tree through a vacuum restrictor so it dont affect the idle I hate the smell of fuel coming from under the hood and I notice you put a plate for the egr did you put a high temp gasket there if not use the reg egr gasket that gets real hot there and a possible future vac leak.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Oh yea I is real hard to see did you plug the old vacuum nipple for the vapor system on the back of the egr spacer it is hard to see and easily missed it is on the back of the spacer down below the brake booster hose. Also is your A/C working you can add a throttle solenoid to raise the idle when the compressor kicks on just get one off a older carb with one wire to it and connect it to the compressor power wire.

 

[WWard]

Oh yea I is real hard to see did you plug the old vacuum nipple for the vapor system on the back of the egr spacer it is hard to see and easily missed it is on the back of the spacer down below the brake booster hose.

(( Yes that was plugged from the start. ))



Also is your A/C working you can add a throttle solenoid to raise the idle when the compressor kicks on just get one off a older carb with one wire to it and connect it to the compressor power wire.

(( The A.C. system has gone the way of the trash can. The thing has never been charged or even had a belt on it the whole time I've had it. It was just in my way and useless clutter, so it went bye-bye. ))

I did move the dizzy vacuum line like suggested and turned the idle mixture screws out some more. It does idle smoother now and sits around 850 rpm, but still smells rich.

I still need to fab a metering block to replace that stock solenoid...but I have to move some stuff today and need to drive the truck, so maybe tomorrow I might have time to make something to finish that.

Thanks for your suggestions. I'm sure I'll have some questions later, so I'll be back.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/500837/3 Just in case here is the link for the metering block

 

[SR185]

Oh yea I is real hard to see did you plug the old vacuum nipple for the vapor system on the back of the egr spacer it is hard to see and easily missed it is on the back of the spacer down below the brake booster hose. Also is your A/C working you can add a throttle solenoid to raise the idle when the compressor kicks on just get one off a older carb with one wire to it and connect it to the compressor power wire.

Got a link to that throttle solenoid?

And the re-manufactured 2150 carb I purchased, has a vacuum choke. I was thinking about pulling the electric choke off the original carb. Do you think That would be an improvement?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I was just wondering if you can just notch the valve on the inside of the feedback solenoid so the air will bleed by it to the venturi booster. I dont know if you saw how it works the clicking noise was the valve opening and closing when the computer wanted a lean condition the more air that bleeds by the leaner the mix. On normal carbs the bleed is fixed with the two holes on top of the booster on both sides where the screw is that holds the accelerator pump check valve the be be with the weight.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Got a link to that throttle solenoid?

And the re-manufactured 2150 carb I purchased, has a vacuum choke. I was thinking about pulling the electric choke off the original carb. Do you think That would be an improvement?

Actually I put the choke housing from the stock carb on the one I am using it plugs the vacuum hole in the carb for the choke preheater and am using a choke thermostat from a earlier carb the one off the feedback carb used a pulsing voltage and battery voltage made it open too quick and I figured it would probably burn up quick I just wired it from the old computer power from the 8 wire connector by the coil. switched

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://cgi.ebay.com/Motorcraft-2100...6725091?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories did this work maybe you can find one that works at the bone yard lots of guys use them when they convert there A/C compressor to a air compressor to kick the idle up just search for 70s ford I believe it is called a throttle actuator. It has one wire to it.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

They call it an idle stop solenoid. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...String=search&itemIdentifier=3001_28309_8439_
Rockauto carries them for $15. It's listed under the emissions folder. 79 pinto. Theres one for a 77 Fairmont for $8 but I don't know if it would work the same.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

They call it an idle stop solenoid. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...String=search&itemIdentifier=3001_28309_8439_
Rockauto carries them for $15. It's listed under the emissions folder. 79 pinto. Theres one for a 77 Fairmont for $8 but I don't know if it would work the same.

I`m not sure if it will fit on the old throttle motor bracket you still might need to get the bracket I have one here with the bracket for $10 plus $7 shipping just send it to my paypal account with your address and I can ship tomorrow I`m in WA message me for my paypal account and your address. I am putting a water pump in a 1994 lebaron 3.0 for a friend in trade for tools I hope he has alot of tools.

 

[dangerranger83]

One thing that is still iffy to me is the exact contruction of the metering block. I have the info. and the pics that were given from another write-up but is it really that simple or is there something else?

As for the throttle solenoid, my dads carb he got from the JY had an A/C on it, came off an 80 Fairmont and is exactly as you are all describing it (which btw has the 1.08 venturi carb).

 

[WWard]

Well, I finally got around to making myself a metering block. In fact a couple of them.
I looked around for some material that would be strong enough ( in my mind...I do tend to live in the "overkill" arena when making things ), I looked for one of those nylon type cutting boards, but they seemed to be too thin for what I wanted. Then I thought maybe a chunk of that plastic type counter top, ( the kind where the sinks are molded in to the counter as one piece. But couldn't find any scraps anywhere.
So I decided to mix up some of fiberglass resin and make a thick block that I could drill easily...but I think I didn't wait long enough to let it fully cure before I got everything dremelled out and mounted...'cause a few days later I noticed it was all split.That didn't work.
So then I decided to buy a couple of those JB Weld putty sticks and mixed them together. I stuck the screw for the high speed bleed screw in the the soft putty and formed it into a thick triangular block and let that sit over night. The next day I used the gasket as a template and drew the shape I needed, then sanded it down on my disc sander. I used some larger washers under the screws to spread the load a bit better when I mounted it to the carb. Works like a charm now.

Even with the choke fully open on cold start it idles around 650-700 rpm. My vacumm gauge shows around 19-20 in hg when warmed up.

So I'm happier now, and getting closer to running even better than I remember.

I have also noticed a sticking throttle pedal and thought that maybe it was the cable. But just yesterday I noticed that the throttle valve rod running thru the carb has a slight wiggle and sometime binds, as well as shows signs of fuel leakage. So this carb is failing...but it will do for now.

I don't want to spend a bunch of money on a Holley or a rebuilt carb right now because I'm really leaning more towards wanting to do a 289/302 swap with a c4/c5 auto.

We will see.....but this setup will work for now.