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Always Rich What 2 Do?


Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
17
City
tallahassee Fl.
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
My code reader says always rich! I was told it could be because of a bad ECT sender to my ECU. Could a bad ECT cause "always rich" code, should I get a code for ECT sender if its bad? This stuff is all new to me so any suggestions will be checked, tried and appreciated!
HELP!:bawling:
Everything is new or checked out, the ECT is just about the only thing I havnt touched yet! and 42 is the only code I get "engine running"
 
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I havnt checked this thread in a couple a' days. Geuss nobody had anything to say about my problem. I changed the ECT sender, 42 (always rich) is still there yes I did reset my ECU! I've done everything I can think of except changing my fuel pressure regulator, Someone said might be too much fuel pressure so when the wife gives me the O-K i'll go get one and throw that at it! I also have a cold air intake so the IAT is in the air tube after the MAS, That bugs me for some reason? Might try a 43 kohm resistor instead of the IAT sensor!
Someone say something and let me know what you think I should look at.
 
ok, throwing parts at it isn't the best way at it. I didn't see your post as I was working most of the weekend.

what all have you changed? the oxygen sensor is what tells the engine that it is running rich or lean, if you haven't changed it it might be worth the $40. Did it do this before you put on the intake?

Check your fuel pressure before you go throwing a fuel pressure regulator at it, all you should need is a tire pressure gage (one of the round gage types would be best, DON'T use a digital gage or one of the pencil types as it will be ruined).
 
If I may, how do you check the fuel pressure with a regular tire gauge? I'd like to try that too.
 
plug it into the shrader valve on the fuel rail.

If it was me, first thing I'd do is go buy some MAF cleaner, clean the maf and go from there. If the o2 sensor is more than 80k miles old, I'd change that too. Also, please don't use a resistor in place of the IAT unless just to test it. All you'll do is create a problem. A quick test on the FPR is to simply pull the vacuum line off of it and see if there is fuel in the line. If so, it needs to be replaced. otherwise try as Scott suggested and put a gauge on it and get some readings.

One other thing i would do is move that IAT out of the intake tube and mount it as close to the filter as possible. The reading is probably quite a bit hotter in the tube than it is outside near the filter. good luck.
 
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Checkin in!

Been few days but I'm back! I cleaned the MAS, 02 sensor is new also has new ECT sender, new gas cap-just fer kicks. new plugs & wires, new thermostat-195. cold air intake is in there IAT in tube just after MAS. The EGR system is gone! EGR eliminator wired to ECU. It has a very free flow exhaust (Thrush Glass Pack) resonator tip and no Cat, niehbors love it!
The thing runs GREAT but I get the CEL on sometimes, only code is 42(always Rich) I clear the ECU everytime I change something followed by a good 20 mile ride to allow ECU to relearn, When the CEL comes on I Read codes, 42 just wont stop teasin my brain! I put black tape over the CEL, still bugs me when I peel the tape back to see light on though!
I pulled the plugs today just to see, they were all a nice light grey & clean, looked fine to me, no sign of rich.
Oh yea! What should the fuel pressure be? I can check that easily!
Please Throw ME som'ore ideas to try
 
we gave you some ideas! try them. haha. check the fuel pressure!
 
I'm fooling with some rough idle issues and want to check the fuel pressure too, but that valve on the fuel rail has a check valve that is recessed too far in to use a bicycle/car pressure gauge. What are you guys using?
 
I use a dedicated fuel pressure gauge. The shrader valve is way too big for a tire gauge, I picked up my pressure tester from auto zone for $40. You can get a nicer more featured kit for a little more money.


Start with that, also try bench testing your 02 sensors, see if they're reading right.


hook a multi meter up to the black wire and the casing of the o2 sensor. You should be getting around 0.05-0v. Now take a propane torch and put it directly over the tip of the sensor, this will remove the oxygen from the sensor tip and you SHOULD be getting a reading of about 0.9v. If you don't get these readings, your o2 sensors are bad and need to be replaced.
 
i use a 10 dollar fuel pressure gauge from harbor freight, works just fine.
 

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