Almost done with conversion quick wiring

[Big Puddin]

Completing a v8 swap, 03 ranger, 2 wires and timing engine left but stumped. Someone had already done 2 motor swaps by the time I’m doing v8. All I need to know is where black/white wire and red/yellow go. These come from driver inner fender from a wire bundle. I think these were bundled very closely with the large yellow/pale blue stripe wire, the big wire.

And I’m lost on what 2 wires go my alternator. Motor and trans from 82 or so. Just a standard alternator, nothing special. Motor and trans really nothing special, c6, no cam, just alum intake and stock Holley 600 and skip white 1 wire hei. Repro stock 289 mustang exhaust manifolds, will be duals and flow masters or something.

Just a few wires keeping me from full crank and charge. Oh, and making radiator brackets. Thanks if you can help got 2 spare wires black/white stripe and red/yellow stripe I can find where they terminate on motor or accessories, are they my missing alternator wires. Thank you for help.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Your best bet would be to get an EVTM off of ebay for your truck and decode what does what from there.

I have one for mine (vastly different truck than yours) and they are a godsend for electrical.

 

[adsm08]

I agree. Trying to solve an electrical mystery without the right info is like a gay virgin trying to pleas a woman. Ain't gonna happen.

 

[RonD]

Yes, +1 ^^^

Wire colors are of no real value because Ford varied them by model year, but since you have eliminated most engine bay wires you should be able to figure it out, by key on or off power and what doesn't have power that needs it

Alternator wiring is fairly easy to add or trace.

Alternators with built in voltage regulators will have a stud and nut connection on the back, and then a 3 wire connector for regulator.
If you have a separate voltage regulator then eliminate it and get alternator with built in regulator

The stud is called the B+ connection, it is connected directly to Battery Positive via a Fuse rated for alternators maximum output.
In 2003 this Fuse was TWO 12gauge fusible links in parallel on a Black/orange stripe wire(10gauge) that ran from B+ to Power distribution point, where battery positive cable is connected, the smaller of the two Positive battery cables, larger one runs to starter motor

The Yellow/white stripe wire on regulator can be connected to B+ terminal with an 18gauge Fusible link, and on factory wiring it is connected to Black /orange wire where it connects to its fusible links.

The Light Green/red stripe wire at regulator, is the ON/OFF switch for alternator, so important
It comes from the Battery Light in the instrument cluster
Battery light is powered by Fuse 11 in 2003 cab fuse box, 7.5amp
When you turn on the key fuse11 sends 12v power to battery light in dash, that 12v travels to alternator on the light green wire
Alternator is not spinning so is a "ground"
Battery light now has 12v and a "ground" so LIGHTS UP
When you start the engine, this 12v from battery light provides the "startup voltage" the alternator needs to start making its own power
When alternator starts to generate its own power the light green wire is no longer a "ground" so Battery Light on dash goes off
If alternator ever stops working then Battery light will come back on

So light green wire at regulator should have 0volts key off, and 12volts key on

White wire is a short jumper that connects voltage regulator to alternator, this was done internally on later model alternators


So there are 3 main wires for the alternator to work
B+ and Yellow/white need fused connection to battery positive
Green wire needs key on power, if green wire has power all the time the battery will drain in about 2 or 3 hours, so important to make sure this wire has no power key off, lol

2003 charging diagram below

 

[bobbywalter]

Completing a v8 swap, 03 ranger, 2 wires and timing engine left but stumped. Someone had already done 2 motor swaps by the time I’m doing v8. All I need to know is where black/white wire and red/yellow go. These come from driver inner fender from a wire bundle. I think these were bundled very closely with the large yellow/pale blue stripe wire, the big wire.

And I’m lost on what 2 wires go my alternator. Motor and trans from 82 or so. Just a standard alternator, nothing special. Motor and trans really nothing special, c6, no cam, just alum intake and stock Holley 600 and skip white 1 wire hei. Repro stock 289 mustang exhaust manifolds, will be duals and flow masters or something.

Just a few wires keeping me from full crank and charge. Oh, and making radiator brackets. Thanks if you can help got 2 spare wires black/white stripe and red/yellow stripe I can find where they terminate on motor or accessories, are they my missing alternator wires. Thank you for help.

600 holley and c6...why would you use any of the wiring?...just make it an 82 charging system

 

[Big Puddin]

Thanks for the help. I helped a friend out getting some money up, and yard cleanup, and rehab payments for his brother in law. The poor man had drug addictions, tearing his own vehicles, house, and I guess mind to pieces. Helping my buddy out I wound up with a truck a man had done bizarre things to more than once. He’d went from a well educated and wealthy man to an unemployable man who cannot even manage himself any longer.

He’d changed drivetrains in this truck couple times, wire hacking. I had a 351w and c6 laying in a van a sweetgum claimed the roof and windshield and back door integrity. So, I’m just trying to make lemonade with what I have and throw something together to try and make something out of nothing without spending a wad. As my teen continues to go through vehicles quickly, a reasonable sized truck with maybe 170 or so horses should run ok, but not me a bracket racer, and will enable a more modern truck than my daily 97.

I think you’ve given me enough info and I thank you all for sharing great info.