AJE Ranger K-Member Who's Done It!?

[Yotaismygame]

Frames are only riveted together so yeah they are pretty flexible. Especially without the cab and bed bolted to them. Thanks for the update.

 

[bobbywalter]

Few Updates: Went back to the track and ran a 12.33 at 120mph. I think the way the truck sits I could get that down to 11.5 or slower. Need a little better starts and more wastegate spring to hold boost on the top end. Keep in mind this is on street tires and a manual.

Also finally got a decent front sway bar under this thing. Turns out explorer bars or newer ranger bars will not work. Found this out the hard way. I do not recommended buying from SDtrucksprings. They took almost a month to get me the explorer bar that didn't fit and also sent the wrong mounts with it. Now I'm trying to return it but they take days to respond.

Ended up ordering the Belltech 5445 bar 1.25" from Summit and even though it was a drop ship item still got it in four days!. Fits almost perfect and you'll just need end links. I used some off amazon for a dodge ram. They are almost perfect too. Kina pricey though. They could be maybe half inch shorter. Which would be easy to do. Just shorten the sleeve and grab a shorter bolt.

I do have a complaint with the AJE mounts on the LCA. They're too narrow. To get the end links to be verticle I would need to cut them off and move them out about an inch. This was an issue with the stock sway bar also. Someday ill get around too that.
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120 traps...? damn.

what are you about 3400 pounds?

that thing will go low 11s trapping 120s....how far do you have to drive it out of the hole or do you have to pedal everywhere?

radical fun i would wager.

 

[Yotaismygame]

120 traps...? damn.

what are you about 3400 pounds?

that thing will go low 11s trapping 120s....how far do you have to drive it out of the hole or do you have to pedal everywhere?

radical fun i would wager.

Yeah 3400 ish. With my street tires and probably the lake of track prep for the night I race makes it difficult. It's all in my 60ft. Last time out I went 12.00 with a 2.06ft 122mph on borrowed drag radials. Made three passes and everyone was faster then the last. With more time and practice I could do better for sure. This was on 16psi too but my setup produces a lot of back pressure and it falls to 14psi pretty quick. I think I have a boost leak after making a new charge pipe, moving the WG and adding a 4 port boost controller. Running a 7lb spring with a 4 port should net me a solid 16psi and it wasnt. It's funny on the track I want more power but I'm near the end of the capabilities of this little s366. But on the street I have to turn it down or ramp in power pretty late. Otherwise its spin city.

 

[tubbyb23]

I just ordered this kit for mine. We'll see how it goes

Well, I have things mostly installed. It's a lot of work to say the least. I changed to a manual rack(flaming river) strange brakes with fox v8 spindles. The strut Tower brace is the toughest thing for me to get lined up. I think I'm going to Learn to hate that thing. I'm currently working on getting the 302 back in, which I'm sure I'm going to have to relocate the trans and exhaust, as I'm sure these mounts will not be in the same place as the last ones. Hopefully, I don't need to have the driveshaft remade. Heres a link to my YouTube videos.

 

[clippii]

Big update,

Now that it's no longer winter, been making some good progress these last 3 weeks.

Got the rear rims in, 15x14's for the rear and will probably be 15x7's in the front. Tire's still on backorder for the last 6 months. ugh.

Continued boxing and welding the frame as well, got all the sections put in place and welded some temporary cross bars in place before I welded everything in completely. Beveled the edges of the frame and plate so the bead lays inside making for a cleaner finished product when ground down.

Welded on the top half of the frame before flipping it over to weld the bottom side

Underside;

Then came the fun part of grinding all welds flush so that once its painted you'll never know it wasn't supposed to be this way. No one will ever see it, but I'll know.

Motor in background getting a coat of paint, have to still paint the timing cover, it's cast aluminum and was not taking the paint I was using very well. Will most likely need to throw some etching primer on it first.

Then came the AJE part. Phew Finally! Fully mocked up minus outer tire rods and strut brace. Plan on dropping the cab on very soon and will square everything up once that is done.

Still didn't drill these rear holes as its kind of still a mystery where they go exactly but I think I'm just gonna go with my sharpie marks and call it good. Nothing pre existing on my 93 frame to give me any reference.

Also the AJE kit comes with grade 5 hardware, but I'm going to swap out everything for grade 8 zinc coated, I've got a mixture of some of it now just for mock up.

Next up was this front strut hoop mount. My frame from the factory is completely boxed in in this front section making it basically impossible to get a wrench or anything back there to get the nut in place. Those bolts are just in place with no nuts, but I think I can run a carriage bolt on a 1/4x1x3" plate the other way around and put a nut on the outside.

This next part is my own doing, as I boxed everything in I had to drill some access holes to get a wrench, a socket, crows foot wrench, everything in the toolbox to gain access to the back of the hardware without completely turning my nice new plate into swiss cheese. I'll plug these up with some rubber/plastic plugs eventually to keep big debris from getting in.

pass side, also side note; Milwaukee Dozer Hole Saws are as round as an egg. 0/10 purchase

Front spindle mocked up with the race craft 2" drop spindles.

That's most of the useful pictures and updates I have for now. Will post again once the cab is down and hopefully the motor goes in for the first time.

Thanks for reading!

 

[Lefty]

Big update,

Now that it's no longer winter, been making some good progress these last 3 weeks.

Got the rear rims in, 15x14's for the rear and will probably be 15x7's in the front. Tire's still on backorder for the last 6 months. ugh.

View attachment 110416


Continued boxing and welding the frame as well, got all the sections put in place and welded some temporary cross bars in place before I welded everything in completely. Beveled the edges of the frame and plate so the bead lays inside making for a cleaner finished product when ground down.

View attachment 110417View attachment 110418

Welded on the top half of the frame before flipping it over to weld the bottom side

View attachment 110425
View attachment 110422View attachment 110421

Underside;

View attachment 110419

Then came the fun part of grinding all welds flush so that once its painted you'll never know it wasn't supposed to be this way. No one will ever see it, but I'll know.

View attachment 110420
View attachment 110426
View attachment 110424
View attachment 110423

Motor in background getting a coat of paint, have to still paint the timing cover, it's cast aluminum and was not taking the paint I was using very well. Will most likely need to throw some etching primer on it first.

View attachment 110427

Then came the AJE part. Phew Finally! Fully mocked up minus outer tire rods and strut brace. Plan on dropping the cab on very soon and will square everything up once that is done.

View attachment 110428

Still didn't drill these rear holes as its kind of still a mystery where they go exactly but I think I'm just gonna go with my sharpie marks and call it good. Nothing pre existing on my 93 frame to give me any reference.

Also the AJE kit comes with grade 5 hardware, but I'm going to swap out everything for grade 8 zinc coated, I've got a mixture of some of it now just for mock up.

View attachment 110429

Next up was this front strut hoop mount. My frame from the factory is completely boxed in in this front section making it basically impossible to get a wrench or anything back there to get the nut in place. Those bolts are just in place with no nuts, but I think I can run a carriage bolt on a 1/4x1x3" plate the other way around and put a nut on the outside.

View attachment 110430

This next part is my own doing, as I boxed everything in I had to drill some access holes to get a wrench, a socket, crows foot wrench, everything in the toolbox to gain access to the back of the hardware without completely turning my nice new plate into swiss cheese. I'll plug these up with some rubber/plastic plugs eventually to keep big debris from getting in.

View attachment 110431

pass side, also side note; Milwaukee Dozer Hole Saws are as round as an egg. 0/10 purchase

View attachment 110432

Front spindle mocked up with the race craft 2" drop spindles.

View attachment 110433
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That's most of the useful pictures and updates I have for now. Will post again once the cab is down and hopefully the motor goes in for the first time.

Thanks for reading!

A most amazing build! Wonderful work!

Perhaps too, all this hard work is also something of a tribute to these little trucks and how special they really are.

 

[tubbyb23]

Didn’t really want to share so much but being this info is not the internet yet I can take you guys along for the ride so future people have some kind of idea of what to do.

Taking out the engine crossmember ended up being harder than i thought. You’ll definitely want a plasma cutter or a torch. From the outside it looked like just some rivets and and couple welds needed cut. Turns out it’s also welded on the inside where you can’t see. After lots of banging with a sledge hammer and head scratching I ended up just taking chunks out until I saw that weld then ultimately cut the whole thing out. I might not of had to take all the rivets out like I did. Hoping to mock up the K-member today and I’ll know more then.

Talking with AJE who really hasn’t been very helpful it’s recommended I use a mustang master cylinder. It’s slightly shorter . Went ahead and ordered that. View attachment 59896View attachment 59897View attachment 59898

I see that you did remove that second crossmember that would be directly under the V8 transmission. Did you have to read support the frame somehow? I'm talking about the one right under the firewall Factory setup

 

[JoshT]

@Yotaismygame, @tubbyb23, @clippii, @others...

No posts in a while, how are the builds going and rigs running?

I'm curious about components used for this kit. It was mentioned previously that SN95 steering rack and Fox tierods are a good fit. SN95 spindles are required, that's what I'd be using anyway since I was already planning for the cobra brake swap with the beams. Recently it was said that you can retain Ranger and maybe Explorer anti-sway bars.

I know that the AJE kit is supplied with a-arms and struts. Can standard off the shelf or aftermarket Fox/SN95 arms and struts be used? Particularly thinking along the lines of aftermarket high steer arms.

I've got too many projects going on, and I'm particularly fond of the Ranger's TIB suspension. That said, I can't help but think about possibilities using one of these crossmembers offers.

 

[tubbyb23]

@Yotaismygame, @tubbyb23, @clippii, @others...

No posts in a while, how are the builds going and rigs running?

I'm curious about components used for this kit. It was mentioned previously that SN95 steering rack and Fox tierods are a good fit. SN95 spindles are required, that's what I'd be using anyway since I was already planning for the cobra brake swap with the beams. Recently it was said that you can retain Ranger and maybe Explorer anti-sway bars.

I know that the AJE kit is supplied with a-arms and struts. Can standard off the shelf or aftermarket Fox/SN95 arms and struts be used? Particularly thinking along the lines of aftermarket high steer arms.

I've got too many projects going on, and I'm particularly fond of the Ranger's TIB suspension. That said, I can't help but think about possibilities using one of these crossmembers offers.

I can't answer 100% correctly, but I know Jim at aje said they offer two different kits for the Ranger kit 1 sn95 and kit 2 is based on Fox body platform . Therefore, I would imagine the arms would correspond. I did use the factory Ranger sway bar

 

[Lefty]

No work right now. This is my busy season. The Ranger is hard at work

 

[Yotaismygame]

If I were to do it again I’d do my own mustang 2 setup. I thought the AJE would be less work and I doubt it was. Trucks been fine, don’t drive it enough. Need to do some minor stuff unrelated to the AJE kit.

 

[Tshern]

I finally put my AJE under my 87 ranger (331 stroker, c4 full man reverse VB, have new fuel injection to put on also). Only issue I had was after cutting the factory crossmember the frame sprung apart a TON. Also the strut tower brace has to be manhandled into position.

What are you guys doing for brakes and Steering (is there a knuckle kit you guy used or fab'd together? I found that you can fit some brembo's from a Cadillac with an adapter for the front mustang brakes. I have an explorer 8.8 with drums so I'll have to buy something for the back. My truck was factory no power brakes, steering and radio delete, I'm going manual steering but not sure I want to do manual brakes.

I ordered a fox rack, the sn95 rack I had was way too wide. Anything else I should look for and do?

Truck has 52k original miles

was running this but no provision for IAC. Went back to Carb but just picked up a Aces EFI kit

 

[Tshern]

A little- I bought my awning (it's awesome working under it), got my shocks installed (went with QA1...another story), installed the warspeed alternator bracket and got exactly one (!) wiring circuit done before the heat told me I had to quit.

Tore my shoulder up, so I've hired a young guy to help on weekends (starting Saturday). I'm about twenty-thirty hours of labor from starting, tuning and driving.

BTW- I wanted to share an embarassing (but transparent) moment of ignorance with the world:

I'm using a 84 Ranger manual master cylinder, Wilwood adj proportioning valve, PBR twin piston (regular old Mustang) front and GM single piston rear discs. More than enough to stop a 2800 lb vehicle with sticky rear tires.
First thing, I bleed the MC. Then the brakes. I'm noticing the pedal is not really getting any better, so I get another human to help, old-school style. Nope- same thing. Troubleshooting brakes. Great- here we go.
I isolate the MC. Pedal is rock solid. Add the rear brakes, pedal is fine. As soon as I add the front PBRs, little/no pedal resistance. WTH? I call Wilwood- is my MC too small, I ask? Surely, they say. You need a 1-1/16" bore, $400 MC.

Okay....on a hunch I call (imo) the best tech support group around at Maximum Motorsports- the LAST thing the guy says before we hang up is...."I've heard you can put those PBRs on the wrong sides". As he's telling me this, I'm rotating cell phone through space (as if it were the caliper)...uh-oh. Let me go look. Yep- the bleeder screw is on the bottom (supposed to be on top...duh).
Swap sides, done. Good brake pedal now.
At least I didn't blow $400 to find out it was a mistake I made.

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Gotta be 20* cooler under here
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Rear of the truck is done (other than a competent welder finishing my tacks)
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QA1 Pro, double adjustable. I can do pretty much anything with these- add a sway bar and go to Barber Motorsports or run it at the dragstrip.

Til next time.

What rear shock mount is that above your 9 inch?

 

[Tshern]

I was hoping my thread necromancy would resurrect this thread.

 

[Curious Hound]

I was hoping my thread necromancy would resurrect this thread.

Patience. Some of us are here every day. Others have higher priorities. He’ll be around shortly. If you want more action, you might want to start your own thread. That would help you organize your own questions and answers and help document your build instead of having your thoughts piggybacked into somebody else’s thread.