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advice for first time gear install


mazdamama

Well-Known Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
285
Age
35
City
reno/sparks Nevada
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
im considering doing a gear install on my dana 44 and 9 inch, but i have never done gears before, and ive heard that the 9 inch is a good axle to start with. i am realy looking for suggestions, like if theres any good install movies i should buy and watch, what special tools will i probably need to buy, and anything else anyone thinks i should know. i have the money and i will most likely be doing this multiple times so i think it would be best if i leared how to do this myself rather than keep paying other people to do it.
 
well that depends, do you want to do it right? or backyard style? new gears or used gears? and also this is going to be very expensive if you're buying all the tools.

get overhaul kits for each axle

you need- a 0-1" micrometer, pinion depth gauge, backlash gauge, rotary file, impact gun, big hammer, large drift punch, seal puller, 2 jaw gear puller, beam style INCH LB torque wrench. i can't think of anything else right now

i don't feel like explaining every detail at the moment.. but i can answer questions
 
In easy terms, find a friend with all the tools to help you, thats the chepest way, its only the cost of a case of beer, like what I'm doing only my friend is my brother-in-law.
 
randys ring a pinion has a good dvd on gear install. Covers all brands. Also some good videos on you tube. You could watch the you tube vids and get an idea what it will take to do it right. I did mine but I have access to a industrial machine shop so I had most of the tools needed.
 
Because the chunk comes out in the 9" it makes it easy to do on a bench, the 44 will be a bit of a bear. You will need to buy a second set of carrier bearings of identical type and radius out the mounting surface of the bearings so they will slide off and on the carrier with ease. This is an ol trick that a racer taught me years ago. Some people put the shims outside of the carrier bearings I like to see thim between the carrier and the bearing
 
well that depends, do you want to do it right? or backyard style? new gears or used gears? and also this is going to be very expensive if you're buying all the tools.

get overhaul kits for each axle

you need- a 0-1" micrometer, pinion depth gauge, backlash gauge, rotary file, impact gun, big hammer, large drift punch, seal puller, 2 jaw gear puller, beam style INCH LB torque wrench. i can't think of anything else right now

i don't feel like explaining every detail at the moment.. but i can answer questions

well, im not sure if im going to go with new or used gears yet, will it be much harder to get accurate measurements with used gears? also, what do i need the drift punch and rotay file for? is the drift punch for removing bearings or something?
i allready have a torque wrench and micrometer, can anyone tell me a good place to look for the rest of the tools.
i was also wondering if anyone can tell me why the guy at the driveline shop told me that the lowest gear ratio i could use was 5.13 even though i see 5.89 and some ratios in the 6.s on ebay?
 
you can get all the tools you need fairly cheap at harbor freight. the main tools you need are Dial Indicator, digital caliper, and a brass drift, bearing splitter, and You will also want a torque wrench, ft lb and in lb. The 9" is a little easier because you can work with the 3rd member on the bench but thats not really why its considered easier. Its easier because you dont have to make a set of setup bearings for it, you just move the bearing race ajusters, and the pinion gets bolted into the pinion support and depth is set by putting shims between it and the 3rd member.

On the Dana44 however i agree with rockwerks, you need to purchase a second set of NEW carrier bearings and take a dremel or roto tool and bore it out till they slide on an off of the carrier fairly easy, however do not make it a loose fit. Making setup races for the pinion isnt really nessesary because they are easy to knock out, however you will probably want another setup bearing for the pinion because the first bearing that goes on has shims between it and the gear face.

the most important thing of all is to keep and REMEMBER... write down how many shims are in the current carrier, and in the pinion races because that will give you your starting point.
 
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and to answer your question on why he told you 5.13 is the lowest, is because that is the lowest available for the D44
 
well, im not sure if im going to go with new or used gears yet, will it be much harder to get accurate measurements with used gears? also, what do i need the drift punch and rotay file for? is the drift punch for removing bearings or something?
i allready have a torque wrench and micrometer, can anyone tell me a good place to look for the rest of the tools.
i was also wondering if anyone can tell me why the guy at the driveline shop told me that the lowest gear ratio i could use was 5.13 even though i see 5.89 and some ratios in the 6.s on ebay?

the punch is for stubborn center pins, and bearing races. i would recommend installing the new races with a BRASS drift.

used gears are ok, BUT you absolutely MUST accurately measure backlash and pinion depth before you take them apart, then when you put them in your case you need to have the exact same measurements (through adjustment) or they will whine/growl. also you have to get a ring and pinion out of the same diff, they are wear mated together.

the rotary file is for what was mentioned above. to file down the inside of another set of bearings so you can set your pinion depth without having to press on and off your final bearings and potentially damage them. you grind them down until they can slip on and off the pinion gear.

and one tool i did forget, that makes things a little easier but isn't totally necessary. a large bearing splitter and puller.

also harbor freight is a good place to get cheap tools, but don't expect quality, and sometimes the precision tools are not precise at all.

what kind of torque wrench do you have? you specifically need a beam style inch lb torque wrench. this is to set up proper pinion bearing preload
 
the punch is for stubborn center pins, and bearing races. i would recommend installing the new races with a BRASS drift.

used gears are ok, BUT you absolutely MUST accurately measure backlash and pinion depth before you take them apart, then when you put them in your case you need to have the exact same measurements (through adjustment) or they will whine/growl. also you have to get a ring and pinion out of the same diff, they are wear mated together.

the rotary file is for what was mentioned above. to file down the inside of another set of bearings so you can set your pinion depth without having to press on and off your final bearings and potentially damage them. you grind them down until they can slip on and off the pinion gear.

and one tool i did forget, that makes things a little easier but isn't totally necessary. a large bearing splitter and puller.

also harbor freight is a good place to get cheap tools, but don't expect quality, and sometimes the precision tools are not precise at all.

what kind of torque wrench do you have? you specifically need a beam style inch lb torque wrench. this is to set up proper pinion bearing preload

All good info, especially on the Harbor Freight tools!
 
While i agree the HF tools suck when it comes to precision or welders, ect..... I also have to say that my HF dial indicator and digital caliper have served me well through about 12 gear jobs over the years. For somebody that is only going to do gears once or twice, its beneficial to only spend $50.
 
used gears are ok, BUT you absolutely MUST accurately measure backlash and pinion depth before you take them apart, then when you put them in your case you need to have the exact same measurements (through adjustment) or they will whine/growl. also you have to get a ring and pinion out of the same diff, they are wear mated together.
so does this mean it probably wouldnt be a good idea to buy someones used gears off ebay?
 
I've never had an issue installing used gears. Never taken before measurements either.

When installing a used gear set the most important thing is to have a dead on perfect pattern on the coast side of the gear. The drive side is not as important.
 
I've never had an issue installing used gears. Never taken before measurements either.

When installing a used gear set the most important thing is to have a dead on perfect pattern on the coast side of the gear. The drive side is not as important.

Correct, IVe installed a few used sets over the years.
 
i was also wondering if anyone can tell me why the guy at the driveline shop told me that the lowest gear ratio i could use was 5.13 even though i see 5.89 and some ratios in the 6.s on ebay?

Is your D44 a Hi-Pinion? If so, that's why.
 

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