Adjusting Idle on a 2.9....

[holyford86]

i understand that you extended the bracket but that single bolt between that stock bracket and the added piece is going to pivot in the bracket and let the belt loosen up, atleast thats the way it looks to me.

 

[Psychopete]

If the new alternator pulley lined up correctly with the stock, the alignment of the alternator might be slightly off. You might be changing belts a little more frequently, I think that just getting a shorter/measured V-belt and putting it in the stock location would benefit more in the long run. Plus you wouldn't add an extra point that "could" cause a failure later on, though I am not saying that it will, but the alternator is kind of important. Also, the stock bracket has a bend in it which makes it a heck of a lot stronger and less prone to bend. +1 on the pivot. IMO

Pete

 

[mjonesjr]

If the new alternator pulley lined up correctly with the stock, the alignment of the alternator might be slightly off. You might be changing belts a little more frequently, I think that just getting a shorter/measured V-belt and putting it in the stock location would benefit more in the long run. Plus you wouldn't add an extra point that "could" cause a failure later on, though I am not saying that it will, but the alternator is kind of important. Also, the stock bracket has a bend in it which makes it a heck of a lot stronger and less prone to bend. +1 on the pivot. IMO

Pete

The belt lines up perfectly with the crank pulley.


There is NO way the alternator will fit to the stock bracket.

 

[rickcdewitt]

there are a few long bolts holding the alternator together.you can take them out and reclock the front part of the alt so the tab lines up.i've had to do that on stock replacement alt's.although on that aftermarket unit i don't know if it would wind up in the right place.don't pull it apart just rotate it while the bolts are out.
aren't you glad you posted a pic? now you have everyone shaking their fingers at you
nice alt though, pretty enough i almost woulden't want to get it muddy

 

[mhughes165]

there are a few long bolts holding the alternator together.you can take them out and reclock the front part of the alt so the tab lines up.i've had to do that on stock replacement alt's.although on that aftermarket unit i don't know if it would wind up in the right place.don't pull it apart just rotate it while the bolts are out.
aren't you glad you posted a pic? now you have everyone shaking their fingers at you
nice alt though, pretty enough i almost woulden't want to get it muddy

yep, u should easily be able to clock the alt to work with the stock bracket

 

[mjonesjr]

Whenever this bracket setup fails, I will look into other options. Until then, I like this setup.

 

[cocoasranger]

My understanding is that on many of the high output alternators the pulley is somewhat smaller diameter than stock so that the rpm at the alternator is high enough to charge at idle. If it is not, it would be simple enough to put a smaller pulley on the alternator and thus avoid screwing with any adjustments.

 

[mjonesjr]

From what I have read on alternators, there is a specific ration that the alternator internals turn according to the pulley on it. The pulley on my alternator is the same size as the stock alternator. With that pulley, it was factory certified to put out 140A at idle and 200A at 2,300 RPM.

 

[greaseyfingers]

I would re think that alternator bracket, it doesnt look like it will stay tight for very long. I had to do the same kind of thing when I installed my 130 amp taurus alternator (which looks identical to that powermaster). you can check the tps baseline at the center pin at the tps, many people will list the voltage at .9 volts but upon looking it up in shopkey 5 they list .84 volts as the optimal setting, there is a specific procedure to setting it as well, I can get it for you if you would like.

I'd like to check my TPS voltage.. can you explain this in a little more detail, how I should go about doing this..

you mentioned, you can check the tps baseline, at the center pin at the tps.. should I probe the tps center pin, with the voltmeter's positive lead and ground the the voltmeter's other negative lead, on the engine, somewhere.. and then adjust the voltage, accordingly, to .84 volts.. should I do this when the engine is running, or stopped..

how can I test the tps, within it's full range of motion, to see if it's within specs..

 

[Psychopete]

Probe it from the sensor ground, or the ground that's running to it via wire.

I can't remember which is which, with some poking around with a DMM, I imagine you could figure it out.

One is a constant 5v+ for a reference voltage, one is ground, and finally the last is the signal wire to the PCM (which is the want you want to test). Find a single voltage from 2 of the three wires, and there you have it...

I've typically used a DMM to check the base voltage and an analog to verify that the sensor is operating smoothly and consistently.

Pete

 

[greaseyfingers]

Probe it from the sensor ground, or the ground that's running to it via wire.

I can't remember which is which, with some poking around with a DMM, I imagine you could figure it out.

One is a constant 5v+ for a reference voltage, one is ground, and finally the last is the signal wire to the PCM (which is the want you want to test). Find a single voltage from 2 of the three wires, and there you have it...

I've typically used a DMM to check the base voltage and an analog to verify that the sensor is operating smoothly and consistently.

Pete

it sounds like all I need to do is to find the two terminals that isn't the 5v+ reference voltage terminal, and adjust the voltage, to specs, for the other two terminals with my digital multi meter..

since, I don't have an analog to verify that the sensor is operating smoothly and consistently.. can a digital multi meter be used, instead.. how much voltage should my TPS register, when it's opened all the way..

 

[Psychopete]

You'll find it. It's been suggested it's the middle pin (I can't remember), so that might be a good starting point, you would just need to find ground. There's enough room to fit a decently pointed lead into the back of the plug along the wire.

I bought a TPS that has a different A.B.C. marking in the plug in the sensor from what was on the engine. I guessed that it was probably a different wiring configuration, but I don't know, I didn't install it.

Can't effectively use a DMM for testing it. It's sort of has a refresh rate for the screen, it only updates the reading every X milliseconds. The analog shows you in real time. Fortunately they can be inexpensive.

I think mine was high 4v+.

Pete

 

[holyford86]

it would be easy to reclock the ear on the alternator if both of the ears weren't on the same half of the case. below is a picture of my alternator bracket with the adapter that I made.

 

[mjonesjr]

That isn't much different thank mine, minus the second bolt.