Added a HD leaf. What to add in front?

[auto117584]

95 Mazda B2300, 2 wd, 5-speed manual, extended cab.

Added a leaf, heavy duty, about 3/8 or 7/16" thick to the back, and retempered the existing leafs. Now the back is 3.25 inches taller than the front. I measured from the ground to the bottom of the body that is between the front and back wheels. In other words, just in front of the back wheel, and just behind the front wheel.

What should I do to the front springs to make the truck level?

Thanks!

 

[Thed]

 

[auto117584]

Don't beat around the bush, just tell me straight up. I can take it.

 

[Thed]

Try to see if you can find a 4WD spring.

Get one with a 1-2" lift to level it or give it a stock 4WD spring to keep the rake from the factory.

But if you lift your front end the TTB's camber will be wayyyy off. You'll need camber eccentrics if you go 2" on us or drop brackets for anything more.

 

[auto117584]

Try to see if you can find a 4WD spring.

Get one with a 1-2" lift to level it or give it a stock 4WD spring to keep the rake from the factory.

But if you lift your front end the TTB's camber will be wayyyy off. You'll need camber eccentrics if you go 2" on us or drop brackets for anything more.

I've never put a wrench to anything "springs".

Here's a pic. The camper weighs 750 pounds, the contents will probably weigh up to another 750 pounds max. Average would probably be around 500 pounds cargo in the camper.

the two stands are set to the same height, roughly 12". The 3 inch difference is visible from top of stand to bottom of body. The front stand is even with the body.

What is TTB?

The second pic shows the camper

 

[auto117584]

I'm thinking if I put in a new spring, the 3" difference will pretty much disappear. I say that because before i had the leaf springs retempered, they had a reverse curve to them. With the new curve and the extra 1/2" of steel spring, i would think new front springs would bring the truck to within a half inch of being lever. This would be due to the 17 year old coil springs being so compressed due to age and metal fatigue. Maybe there's a spring that would be a little stronger than stock that would make up the difference?

If so, do i need special equipment to get those things changed out? A spring compressor maybe? I have no idea...

Actually I need a little stiffer coil in front, because the back is now a little stiffer with that extra leaf spring, a heavy duty one. It's the thick one, second from the top, in the pic.

 

[Thed]

That's what would make a 4WD spring perfect for your truck. Getting one off of a 4.0L would be stiffer because the spring was designed to take more weight.

And TTB = Twin Traction Beam. It's the style of independent front suspension that Ford has been using from the sixties and is still used today in 2WD Super Duty pickups.

So basically, the easiest way to solve your problem is to order a spring from a 4.0L V6 4WD Ranger. But this WILL MAJORLY mess up your camber, as will any lift on a Ranger/B-Series of this age. If you find a good shop you can have camber eccentrics put in for $170 with a front-end alignment. OR you can buy the part for $30 and put them in yourself. And spring compressors aren't necessary, if you detach the sway bar link and shock absorber and you have a jack stand under the frame than the beam will drop (slowly) almost all the way to the ground, giving you PLENTY of room to work with.

Also, doing this will extend the shock too far, and since we have 2WD Rangers, we can just mooch of the 4WD boys and buy a shock from that model too.

 

[koda6966]

Good god.

 

[Thed]

Good god.

He can only do better from here on out, so why not give him a nudge in the right direction?

 

[RavoHimself]

i agree with everything except the shocks. 2wd and 4wd shock lengths are the same. i looked at advanced and it was the exact same part number and everything. so he would need to buy lift shocks or get stud extenders

 

[Thed]

Hmmm, went I went shock shopping Advanced had two different shocks available, one for 2WD and one for 4WD...