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Actual Oil,Air,Fuel Filter Failure


The reason a CAI cone filter system makes the computer set lean codes is because it alters the flow rate of the system. The MAF doesn't read all of the air coming in...

The plastic bag is a diagnostic aid. The fix is to put the factory intake system back in.

Thanks! Elucidated.

Bill
 
filters

Have used the cheapest crap filters on my 86 2.3 ranger for 300k never a problem, put 2 napa gold filters on my wifes 2004 4.6 marquis both had bad drain back valves, out $18 cause napa wouldn't back them up same with other napa parts , I use the motorcraft filters on my wifes car now, no problems yet, no matter what brand you buy there may be a failure here and there, they dont inspect every unit they just do random samplings, thats why you check the filter after startup to see if its leaking, and if the engine rattles in the car after it sits all day and didnt before the filter chage, then it has a bad drain back valve, witch I have found to be more common with the silicone valves
 
I haven't really seen a failed air filter in all the countless vehicles that I've serviced. Usually an air filter has failed from intaking water, too dirty and got suck in, torn seal from improper install, or animals making a nest inside of it.

Oil filters I have seen fail. Usually the anti-draw back valve fails and rattles around inside the can. Fram filters were the worst of the bunch. More worse failures that I have seen is where the filter element has collapsed. But I haven't seen an engine destroyed by this, yet.

I have personally used Motorcraft, Bosch, PureOne, Puralator, and Fram filters. Though currently I choose PureOne as my filter of choice.
 
I was told napa gold and motorcraft filters are both made by wicks
 
The biggest issue I had with filtration was the standard Fram oil filter (orange can of death...I guess...). I used to run them in my 1990 Ranger with a 2.9L. They were mostly ok, but had a couple of filters give me dry starts one winter and decided to switch to Mobil 1. I have not had any issues since.

I have used Fram air filters for years with zero issues as well.
 
Thanks everyone that replied. I knew I would get a few responses to some bad filters. I guess just goes to show you just how much crap talk there is about certain products in the automotive industry. I guess people will just keep on using what they use because it gives them piece of mind.
 
The only failure I've ever had of any filter was actually a case of the filter working properly.... A total rebuild on an engine put a lot of metal in a Purolator Pure One. It was on bypass after startup. The element was completely stopped up when I cut it open. I changed the filter and not the oil after 200 miles... 500 mile oil change and all was good. Still is.

I had a fram gasket stick to the block once... Caused major leakage. That was all me though... I should have double checked, also that can happen with any brand.

My chevy runs higher oil pressure with a Purolator than with a Fram... 20psi at idle instead of 15. The Fram starts out at 20 but pressure usually drops with time. Always wondered if the cardboard wasn't deteriorating and allowing bypass.

I always run Pure Ones in every vehicle and have for several years. It makes me feel better after cutting open several brands... It just makes me feel better so that's what counts.

I usually use fram air filters in stock applications. Wix fuel filters.., no complaints out of either.
 
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My dad and I have always changed our oil ourselves (and if not) have always had Fram put on our vehicles and have never had a problem with them. Oil has always been changed at 3,000 miles.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
The plastic bag is a diagnostic aid. The fix is to put the factory intake system back in.

Or pony up for the supporting tune.

I was told napa gold and motorcraft filters are both made by wicks

Wrong, Napa Gold are made by Wix, Motorcraft is made by Purolator.

Made by doesn't mean a thing. At one time you could buy a new Ford Focus or a Ford GT. They are both made by Ford so does that mean they are pretty much the same thing? Heck no, they are priced very different for very different markets.

When company A makes something for company B it is to company B's specs.

I have one parts store salesman that gets under my skin. I ask for one thing and the reply is always house brand is the same thing. Yes I doubt Carquest makes their own oil but I also doubt Valvoline or whatever other brand I ask for sells the same oil to them for significantly cheaper because it makes them all warm and fuzzy inside to think that people would rather buy their oil in someone elses bottle than their own label.
 
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Got an f-150 in my shop right this minute with a seized engine and a fram filter, and it was the filter that destroyed the engine- sort of. It got loose and dumped all the oil lol. I used to buy mobil 1 filters, but got one with metal filings where they cut the threads once. So now its back to motorcraft filters and oil. I can get full synthetic motorcraft from my parts store, hard to find but they have it.
 
I have used Fram filters both air and oil for many years, I've never had anything fail due to the filter, and I've never had an engine failure period. Seems like the majority of people that complain about the filters are the people who don't change their oil and never do tune-ups on their vehicles.

I just buy whatever filter is on sale at the time, and change the oil at 3000 miles as I have always done with all of my vehicles and have never had a problem. I usually change my air filter every other oil change unless the filter is extremely dirty at the first oil change then I'll change it too, otherwise I just inspect it and leave it alone. Oil filter gets changed every oil change unlike some people who just change the oil and leave the old filter (pretty pointless changing oil in that case) and I'm sure some of the failures are from those types of people as well.

The oil filter on my 2008 Yamaha Grizzly 450 would spin lose if I didn't get it tightened a certain amount. It wasn't a Fram filter. Filters coming lose don't have anything to do with brand, the oil filter on my ATV was a Yamaha filter. Filter on my riding lawnmower would leak oil when I first bought it, turns out someone had cross threaded the filter onto the engine, it was a Briggs & Stratton filter, and had nothing to do with the filter, just someone not paying attention while installing the filter.

I find it extremely hard to believe a filter causes an engine failure. Oil filter spinning lose and dumping all the engine oil out = lack of the driver paying attention and checking fluid levels. An F-150 holds what at least 5 quarts of oil. How do you not notice the huge pool of oil under the truck from it leaking. If driving you'll notice oil all over the back end of the truck. Obviously people just don't pay attention. The rear main seal leak on my Bronco 2 throws oil all over under my truck and all over the back hatch and window. An oil filter dumping all the engine oil I'm sure either happened quite fast if it was really lose, or was done over time, either way it was neglect on the owner's part for not paying attention.
 
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I have used Fram filters both air and oil for many years, I've never had anything fail due to the filter, and I've never had an engine failure period. Seems like the majority of people that complain about the filters are the people who don't change their oil and never do tune-ups on their vehicles.

I just buy whatever filter is on sale at the time, and change the oil at 3000 miles as I have always done with all of my vehicles and have never had a problem. I usually change my air filter every other oil change unless the filter is extremely dirty at the first oil change then I'll change it too, otherwise I just inspect it and leave it alone. Oil filter gets changed every oil change unlike some people who just change the oil and leave the old filter (pretty pointless changing oil in that case) and I'm sure some of the failures are from those types of people as well.

The oil filter on my 2008 Yamaha Grizzly 450 would spin lose if I didn't get it tightened a certain amount. It wasn't a Fram filter. Filters coming lose don't have anything to do with brand, the oil filter on my ATV was a Yamaha filter. Filter on my riding lawnmower would leak oil when I first bought it, turns out someone had cross threaded the filter onto the engine, it was a Briggs & Stratton filter, and had nothing to do with the filter, just someone not paying attention while installing the filter.

I find it extremely hard to believe a filter causes an engine failure. Oil filter spinning lose and dumping all the engine oil out = lack of the driver paying attention and checking fluid levels. An F-150 holds what at least 5 quarts of oil. How do you not notice the huge pool of oil under the truck from it leaking. If driving you'll notice oil all over the back end of the truck. Obviously people just don't pay attention. The rear main seal leak on my Bronco 2 throws oil all over under my truck and all over the back hatch and window. An oil filter dumping all the engine oil I'm sure either happened quite fast if it was really lose, or was done over time, either way it was neglect on the owner's part for not paying attention.

If the threads were not rolled correctly that could cause them to not stay tight.

Driving for several hours at a time could hide a massive oil leak.

I think the "lol" pretty much cleared the filter for a culprit though. :icon_thumby:
 
Doesn't take long for an engine to bleed out. I had one of my oil lines for my oil filter relocater pop off a fitting and within 10 seconds (if not less) had no oil in the engine and was all over the ground plus smoke everywhere. Luckily, was able to pull the truck over immediately and shut it off.

This thread reminds me, I need to do an oil change and air filter change to the tbird before to long...

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 

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