Accuspark

[OkieBronc]

Purchased this, got it wired in and I have my grounds wired in now as well. not getting any spark and have had the issue of no crank from the key so I’ve been cranking it from the solenoid. My question is, did I get the wrong coil? I’m not getting spark but I’m getting 12v to the coil from my ignition feed, and I tested the volts at the spark plugs and they were reading at 10v. Not sure if my system needs a ballast coil and I didn’t realize this issue until after I had bought it. But would like to know y’all’s thoughts

 

[2011Supercab]

not getting any spark and have had the issue of no crank from the key so I’ve been cranking it from the solenoid.

Do you have the ignition key turned to the "RUN" position while cranking from the solenoid?

 

[Uncle Gump]

It says "ballast coil" so I would guess it's internally resisted and don't need a ballast resistor.

Strange because "most electronic ignitions" don't use a ballast resistor... and use a full 12volts to a non resisted coil.

Put and ohm meter across the coil positive and negative. Will likely read 5 to 7 ohms if it is internally resisted.

 

[OkieBronc]

It says "ballast coil" so I would guess it's internally resisted and don't need a ballast resistor.

Strange because "most electronic ignitions" don't use a ballast resistor... and use a full 12volts to a non resisted coil.

Put and ohm meter across the coil positive and negative. Will likely read 5 to 7 ohms if it is internally resisted.

Yeah I’m guessing I may have gotten the wrong coil. I’m getting volts all the way up to my spark plugs just not sure if it’s enough to make it spark

 

[Uncle Gump]

Yeah I’m guessing I may have gotten the wrong coil. I’m getting volts all the way up to my spark plugs just not sure if it’s enough to make it spark

I'd be careful here...

That ignition system may be designed to run an internally resisted coil.

 

[OkieBronc]

I'd be careful here...

That ignition system may be designed to run an internally resisted coil.

there is some accuspark kits that have the non ballast coil, I may just have to double check my wiring. Test some stuff with the volt meter. I’m thinking I got the wrong coil or maybe the wrong kit and just need to go duraspark. Only difference between duraspark and accuspark is the accuspark doesn’t need the module that you need on the duraspark I should’ve specified what I have as well I have the 1985 Bronco 2 2.8 v6 I was trying to get rid of the ecm, old tfi module, and put on a non feedback carb

 

[Uncle Gump]

there is some accuspark kits that have the non ballast coil, I may just have to double check my wiring. Test some stuff with the volt meter. I’m thinking I got the wrong coil or maybe the wrong kit and just need to go duraspark. Only difference between duraspark and accuspark is the accuspark doesn’t need the module that you need on the duraspark I should’ve specified what I have as well I have the 1985 Bronco 2 2.8 v6 I was trying to get rid of the ecm, old tfi module, and put on a non feedback carb

I kinda knew what you were going for... many have done the same thing.

Being they offer that kit with and without the resisted coil... makes me believe that the system requires a ballast. Resisted coil for vehicles without a ballast or resister wire and non ballast coil for vehicles with.

So I'll stick to my previous statement... be careful.

I looked at the schematics for your Bronco II and it doesn't have any type of ballast.

I can post a picture if you need it.

 

[OkieBronc]

I kinda knew what you were going for... many have done the same thing.

Being they offer that kit with and without the resisted coil... makes me believe that the system requires a ballast. Resisted coil for vehicles without a ballast or resister wire and non ballast coil for vehicles with.

So I'll stick to my previous statement... be careful.

I looked at the schematics for your Bronco II and it doesn't have any type of ballast.

I can post a picture if you need it.

thank ya, I can definitely take the loss with the coil and get the correct non ballast coil if that should be the solution. Especially if the stock doesn’t call for one

 

[RangerStruck]

My question is, did I get the wrong coil? I’m not getting spark but I’m getting 12v to the coil from my ignition feed, and I tested the volts at the spark plugs and they were reading at 10v. Not sure if my system needs a ballast coil and I didn’t realize this issue until after I had bought it. But would like to know y’all’s thoughts

Hey OkieBronc did you end up getting the kit without a ballast coil? And did that solve the issue? I want to order one of these kits but don't want to get the wrong one. Any tips would be appreciated!

 

[OkieBronc]

Hey OkieBronc did you end up getting the kit without a ballast coil? And did that solve the issue? I want to order one of these kits but don't want to get the wrong one. Any tips would be appreciated!

I got the one with the ballast actually, was pretty straight forward and easy. I blew up the first coil by wiring it wrong somehow lol. I’ll write up some instructions. For some reason I don’t get a signal from my key to turn the starter over so I just turn the key and ran a switch from the solenoid and it fires right up

 

[ISX_15]

I got the one with the ballast actually, was pretty straight forward and easy. I blew up the first coil by wiring it wrong somehow lol. I’ll write up some instructions. For some reason I don’t get a signal from my key to turn the starter over so I just turn the key and ran a switch from the solenoid and it fires right up

Do you still have these plugged in or nah? I noticed if i had the round connecter unplugged id get a no crank, and im certain red/ light blue is the the start position. Only thing is i didnt see if it actually runs to the starter relay

 

[OkieBronc]

Do you still have these plugged in or nah? I noticed if i had the round connecter unplugged id get a no crank, and im certain red/ light blue is the the start position. Only thing is i didnt see if it actually runs to the starter relay

hmm not sure why it wouldn’t crank without the round plug, plugged in. I believe one of the round plugs are for backup lights, blinkers and what not, the other should go to the NSS or clutch safety switch. The big red wire is the constant 12v to the coil or ballast if you’re using that one

 

[SenorNoob]

I can't speak to anything with a 2.8, but 2.9 and early 4.0 have a clutch switch, neutral switch, and or park/neutral switch. All wired in series so all have to be made for the starter to turn by the key. The red/lt. blue wire goes all those places.

 

[ISX_15]

View attachment 130358
hmm not sure why it wouldn’t crank without the round plug, plugged in. I believe one of the round plugs are for backup lights, blinkers and what not, the other should go to the NSS or clutch safety switch. The big red wire is the constant 12v to the coil or ballast if you’re using that one

Well theres harnesses that run along the frame to the rear, i think those are for rear lights etc, because those plugs i mentioned is just the ignition/power distribution harness. Ill see though my jump box was low on charge so maybe that could been my issue ontop of a faulty ignition switch.
can you confirm though that the red/LB wire that plugs into the starter relay is what signals it to close and drive the starter?
i ask because im tossing my whole wiring harness and doing all the wiring under the hood myself with new conduit

 

[OkieBronc]

Yessir that should be

Well theres harnesses that run along the frame to the rear, i think those are for rear lights etc, because those plugs i mentioned is just the ignition/power distribution harness. Ill see though my jump box was low on charge so maybe that could been my issue ontop of a faulty ignition switch.
can you confirm though that the red/LB wire that plugs into the starter relay is what signals it to close and drive the starter?
i ask because im tossing my whole wiring harness and doing all the wiring under the hood myself with new conduit

yessir the red/Lb wire would be the 12v start position can also test it with the test light while someone is turning the key. I’m thinking my issue is my ignition cylinder. Seeing that I have 2 separate keys that came with the Bronco makes me think it was changed and went out again