ABS light on

[funkingonutz]

my ABS light is on and i dont know why, my fluid is up to level, and im not leaking any brake fluid and the brake pedal is nice and stiff, but when i push real hard on the brake to "panic stop" the right rear locks up, and the pedal does'nt do that abs pulse it should. Could it be the speed sensor in the rear, the one on top of the diff??

someone help me because i dont feel like spending 72.00 a piece on speed sensors if i dont have to

 

[funkingonutz]

yeah its not the ABS speed sensor(in the rear), i replaced it with a new one and the damn light is still on. i checked the fuses and they are all fine, but could it be the diode under the hood in the power distrubution box??
how do you check a bad diode??

i even disconnected the battery and waited a while thinking the ECU would reset itself and turn off the damn thing!

 

[funkingonutz]

am i being too vauge here or no one really knows what i am talking about??

 

[Yellowsplash]

Your abs system doesnt kick in (pulsate) because the abs system is disabled, which is why the light is on in your instrument cluster. Does your vehicle have 4WABS or RABS?

If you do have 4WABS, I would check the front sensors since you've already replaced the rear sensor. I have had the wheel bearing go out and allow play for the rotor to wobble over just enough to score the speed sensor on the steering knuckle. Very messy fix and required a new speed sensor. I've also had dust and other metal shavings/particles interrupt the sensor signal, and although this usually doesnt cause a light, will cause the system to act sporadically. Either way, you have to remove the rotor to check it. Clean off the sensors with some brake clean and a rag and inspect them for any scoring. Also make sure to inspect/repack your wheel bearings and tighten the spindle nuts to spec while your in there.

 

[funkingonutz]

what are the specs for tightening these wheel bearings..i remember reading something on here about the ranger wheel berings being "touchy" i know you have to tighten them down to seat them, and then back off some

im checking the speed sensors this afternoon and spraying them off with brake clean

 

[Yellowsplash]

Instructions for Warn Hubs Spindle Nut Kit directly off the install sheet (with a few tips added)...

1. Install the inner bearing nut and torque the nut to 35 ft/lbs while rotating the front disc hub back and forth to seat the bearing. Note: The inner nut has a pin or post protruding on one side. The pin is to index into the lockwasher.
(And of course should be facing outward)
2. Back the inner bearing nut off 90 degrees (1/4 turn).
(Torque down to 16 Inch/lbs to ensure its not backed off too far)
3. Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the groove of the front spindle. Tighten the inner bearing nut, aligning the pin into the nearest lockwasher hole. Note: The lockwasher hole pattern is offset with the keyway to provide half-position setting by flipping the washer over to obtain closest hole.
4. Install the outer bearing nut and tighten to 85 to 135 ft/lbs using the spanner locknut wrench/socket.
(The outer nut tends to back off, soo do like everyone said and torque it down to 200-250 ft/lbs. Also, make sure not to turn the inner nut as you torque down the outer nut. Its good to have a second hand to position a screw driver in one of the splines of the inner nut as to hold it from turning.)

If you end up changing the bearings, Timkins and National bearings are good, but stay away from the cheap ones. Be sure also that you are replacing the races too with the bearings or your wasting your time as they will end up failing too. Ohh, and did I mention to use some good grease? Valvoline synthetic grease seems to work well for me. Good luck...

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

+1 Do exactly as Yellowsplash says.
Also make sure your inner wheel bearing nuts still have pins in them. Don't learn the hard way, cause it sucks. And if they do go bad on you don't try to "baby" it back to the shop, It doesn't work.

Also my ABS light was on for a while, then I had to put new shoes and drums in the rear and it magically went off. I don't really understand why, but it went off.

 

[Yellowsplash]

Been there, haha. UrbanRedneckKid, hows those polyurethane spacers working for ya? I had those for a while and they ended up deforming and literally collapsing on me. Just thought I'd give ya a heads up...

 

[Evan]

Instructions for Warn Hubs Spindle Nut Kit directly off the install sheet (with a few tips added)...

1. Install the inner bearing nut and torque the nut to 35 ft/lbs while rotating the front disc hub back and forth to seat the bearing. Note: The inner nut has a pin or post protruding on one side. The pin is to index into the lockwasher.
(And of course should be facing outward)
2. Back the inner bearing nut off 90 degrees (1/4 turn).
(Torque down to 16 Inch/lbs to ensure its not backed off too far)
3. Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the groove of the front spindle. Tighten the inner bearing nut, aligning the pin into the nearest lockwasher hole. Note: The lockwasher hole pattern is offset with the keyway to provide half-position setting by flipping the washer over to obtain closest hole.
4. Install the outer bearing nut and tighten to 85 to 135 ft/lbs using the spanner locknut wrench/socket.
(The outer nut tends to back off, soo do like everyone said and torque it down to 200-250 ft/lbs. Also, make sure not to turn the inner nut as you torque down the outer nut. Its good to have a second hand to position a screw driver in one of the splines of the inner nut as to hold it from turning.)

If you end up changing the bearings, Timkins and National bearings are good, but stay away from the cheap ones. Be sure also that you are replacing the races too with the bearings or your wasting your time as they will end up failing too. Ohh, and did I mention to use some good grease? Valvoline synthetic grease seems to work well for me. Good luck...

Excellent advice. A lot of people don't notice this happening (I didn't) and it leaves you with an over-tightened inner locknut.

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Been there, haha. UrbanRedneckKid, hows those polyurethane spacers working for ya? I had those for a while and they ended up deforming and literally collapsing on me. Just thought I'd give ya a heads up...

Mine have been holding up now pretty good for about 8 months. One of my buddys had his crack and fall out in 2 months. His were from EBAY mine are the Daystar ones. And I wheel mine all the time and, his is a street queen. I quess as long as you put the good ones in you'll have less problems. I'll see how it goes, they only gotta last a couple of months till I do my SAS.

Anyways, Pay attention to those wheel bearings!! (anti-thread-jacking statement)

 

[dennis461]

ABS is a mystery

am i being too vauge here or no one really knows what i am talking about??

I think most people don't know the system...
I've been searching the net to turn my ABS light off (and get the system working again).
Problem is, ABS is not standard like OBD-2, so regular scanners won't help, and ABS changed twice around 1996 as far as I can tell. (Manuals show the wrong system for my 1996.)

I'm not ready to buy the $200 software to upgrade my ELMSCAN scanner to do ABS work.

My rear adjuster fell apart, so I suspect the brake pressure got too low and locked out the ABS.
But it is not resetting like it should with the brakes repaired.

The sensors can be checked with an ohmmeter at the connector under the hood. The ABS pump relay can be bypassed briefly to determine if the pump is froze up. These two tests are cheaper than throwing parts at your rig.
As for metal shavings on the sensors, that should not fail the self test when "keying" on the system, so the light should come on for two seconds, pass the self test, and turn off. Then when you start rolling, the ABS would lock out (not work) the first time you step on the brake.

Hope someone smarter than us can post a reset method that acutually works.

 

[Machine]

My ABS light just came on. I was hauling a good size load of logs home and some guys stopped quickly in front of me. I slammed on the brakes and since then the ABS light has been on. I have NO CLUE what to check. I have all brand new brakes in the rear. Anyone have any idea why this would have happened? Thanks.

 

[Beef52751]

Mine came on the other day for no aparent reason as well.

 

[Yellowsplash]

As for metal shavings on the sensors, that should not fail the self test when "keying" on the system, so the light should come on for two seconds, pass the self test, and turn off. Then when you start rolling, the ABS would lock out (not work) the first time you step on the brake.

Yes, it wont fail the self test nor will the light stay on. And it actually won't "lock out" the abs, but rather cause the system to act sporadically when not needed due to the sensor sending mixed speed signals that aren't correct in relation to true wheel speed. While the abs function is working correctly and kicking in due to the variable wheel speeds, the actual "kicking in" and abs pulsation from the pump isn't needed in the situation of easy braking. You'll notice this more as you approach ~5 mph, cause the pedal will drop slightly and start pulsating. If you've ever driven on ice and hit the brakes too hard you know exactly what I'm talking about. But it does this almost every time you come to a stop.

My ABS light just came on. I was hauling a good size load of logs home and some guys stopped quickly in front of me. I slammed on the brakes and since then the ABS light has been on. I have NO CLUE what to check. I have all brand new brakes in the rear. Anyone have any idea why this would have happened? Thanks.

Sounds more like an actual problem with the system itself. Your best bet is to have the system checked out by the stealership.

 

[RobinHood]

l am experiencing the same thing right now... l also replaced the sensor, checked fluid etc...

Finally l had the ABS light checked and it is the ABS Valve. About $100.00 to buy and replacing it is easy. l have a thread going right now that talks about it. But look it up in your manual under RABS valve and you will see what l am talking about.