A4ld to M5OD-R1

[cp2295]

Uh yes definitely get the plate, I didn't when I swapped a 4.0 for my 3.0 and learned the hard way. Had to pull the trans because the starter and flywheel got fried, needless to say I got the plate after pulling a trans just to get the plate at the junkyard.


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[cp2295]

Anyways as stated no need to change the tcase x member or driveshaft. Grab yourself a brake/clutch pedal assembly while you're at the jy. I reccomend getting a new master cylinder with the line (I bought a centric one for $50 after mine leaked) get a new slave too not worth the trouble. Obviously a clutch/flywheel/pilot bearing.

Getting sidetracked haha, don't know if there's a plate in the firewall where the slave goes through on autos, may need to cut it out. Locate the wires for the reverse lights and hook them up to the switch on the side of the trans. When you put the rig in reverse the switch just gets grounded btw.

Get a starter too, autos one won't work. Get a new one! Put in too many refurbished ones In at work that I had to warranty.


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[fastpakr]

You can put a 2.9 M5OD on a 4.0 without problems. The issue with those is that they basically did not exist in a 4x4 form. They were about as common as the diesels and twin tanks and a little less so than the 4-cyl 4x4.

Interesting, I never realized they were unusual. AllanD sold me one as a replacement for the blown trans in my old '94 Explorer. Worked great for several years until I eventually sold it.

 

[4x4junkie]

Seems only a few 1990 4WD 2.9L models ever got a M5OD (probably only those that also got the D35 & 1354)... Ford went back to the FM146 for '91 & '92 (the one under my BII came from a '90 Ranger SC 2.9L).

 

[Denisefwd93]

thanks so much everyone! I love forums like this, so many minor questions can get answered.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Decision made! going to dump the A4 and go for manual!

Question. what clutch sizes work? I will get a new flywheel clutch kit of course.

 

[don4331]

Denise, you're losing me.

Don't you just drop in and get the kit for '93 Ranger with 4.0 at NAPA (or equivalent) and it includes flywheel, clutch, pilot bearing and pressure plate. No real choice (ok, there are choices on material, 6-puck, etc, but one size fits most?)

 

[Denisefwd93]

Denise, you're losing me.

Don't you just drop in and get the kit for '93 Ranger with 4.0 at NAPA (or equivalent) and it includes flywheel, clutch, pilot bearing and pressure plate. No real choice (ok, there are choices on material, 6-puck, etc, but one size fits most?)

Hey Don was thinking there are two diameters, available.
8.75" & 10" reading so many related posts gets me a bit over informed I guess.

 

[redhurricane]

I would assume the 8.75 clutch is for the 2.3L variation of the trans, and the 10" for the 4.0L. Make sure you are sourcing for the 4.0L.

What is your plan of attack for the supporting parts like shifter/boot/floor plate/clutch pedal/replacement brake pedal (narrow versus wide on auto)/ Clutch Master cylinder. etc? Buying new parts or junkyard parts?

 

[Denisefwd93]

I would assume the 8.75 clutch is for the 2.3L variation of the trans, and the 10" for the 4.0L. Make sure you are sourcing for the 4.0L.

What is your plan of attack for the supporting parts like shifter/boot/floor plate/clutch pedal/replacement brake pedal (narrow versus wide on auto)/ Clutch Master cylinder. etc? Buying new parts or junkyard parts?

10" yes I looked it up .

I've been connected through a reliable person on the site to young man from the forums. he's parting out a 93 4.0 4X4 5speed with rusted frame, so it should hopefully, have everything I need. block plate and starter, M50D etc.

Need to research the dash and pedal assembly in out which, seems to be the large part of this job. I've questions there!
vac and electric connections for cruise, brake light, etc. Should I "fix" the new old clutch pedal bearing that breaks? Should we do the dash, wiring harness and pedal changes before the the transmission swap? seems so to me.

The plan is for new hydraulics, clutch, flywheel etc. but they may be somewhat new already.. (think he said less then 10K on it (I hear it argued both ways). still new is the way to go from past experience. Like the time the crated Jasper 2.8 GM V6 was all back in and running and the 4 speed locked itself into 2nd gear! a week later we put a 5 speed in.

I've changed dashes in my Pontiac Fieros. with and without the steering wheel on the column. ALWAYS easier with a steering wheel out of the way! Puller required, impossible without!

The site seems low on photo essays of different jobs on the trucks. Sure do love visuals on such things.

 

[redhurricane]

Pedals from a same year truck are a swap in deal, can be done without removing much of anything. C clip on the pivot shaft, and you can slide it to the passenger side far enough to get the brake pedal and clutch installed leaving the gas pedal in place. I BELIEVE (better have a good look) that the brackets are identical for auto and manual. It's just the pedals that interchange. the brake light switch will attach to either. There are no vac lines associated with the pedals, just the brake switch and the NSS switch for the clutch that you will have to wire if you desire to. the wiring should be there, you'll just have to tie into the harness. Pivot bushings are plastic, get new ones or salvage from the donor vehicle. they get brittle. grease them well.

If you're spending the time to do this, new clutch/PP/throw out bearing/pilot bearing are a no-brainer. If you're using a used flywheel, get it surfaced. cheap, and will save you pulling the trans soon if it's not dead flat.

bench bleed the clutch master before installing. If you skip this step you'll NEVER get the air out of the master unless you remove it and start all over.

is your truck a column shift or floor shift?

 

[Denisefwd93]

Pedals from a same year truck are a swap in deal, can be done without removing much of anything. C clip on the pivot shaft, and you can slide it to the passenger side far enough to get the brake pedal and clutch installed leaving the gas pedal in place. I BELIEVE (better have a good look) that the brackets are identical for auto and manual. It's just the pedals that interchange. the brake light switch will attach to either. There are no vac lines associated with the pedals, just the brake switch and the NSS switch for the clutch that you will have to wire if you desire to. the wiring should be there, you'll just have to tie into the harness. Pivot bushings are plastic, get new ones or salvage from the donor vehicle. they get brittle. grease them well.

If you're spending the time to do this, new clutch/PP/throw out bearing/pilot bearing are a no-brainer. If you're using a used flywheel, get it surfaced. cheap, and will save you pulling the trans soon if it's not dead flat.

bench bleed the clutch master before installing. If you skip this step you'll NEVER get the air out of the master unless you remove it and start all over.

is your truck a column shift or floor shift?

Column, My argument is get new for the clutch etc, some argue not.

Yes, I'm kind of an expert on clutch hydraulics bent pedals etc. I've owned 7 Pontiac Fieros since 1986.

Does anyone make a steel clutch push rod? Seems like a nobrainer for the after market!
This thing looks like it belongs in a go kart.

Perfection also comes to mind in this clutch system

 

[Denisefwd93]

Going to slowly resume this thread. Have a engine, trans and T-case coming my way soon! only 62,000 on the donor's OD. I'll be saving the engine since the one in the Beast is still quite good.

Going to start collecting parts like mounts and other small things.

What if any parts would I want from the 98? I have dibs on what's left, Not much looks transferable to my 93. I interior is tan so I don't want that.

WTF did ford do with the intake manifold on the 98? It's ALL plastic!

Should I get a steering column without auto shifter or just the parts needed to remove it?

Anyone have a stock# for AARP flywheel bolts?

Thanks everyone! I'm going to be very thankful for all the help yet to be received here!

 

[redhurricane]

Anyone have a stock# for AARP flywheel bolts?

I had to quote this just for the prolonged laugh. AARP bolts must be very, very old.


NOW, if you are referring to ARP bolts, Unless you were planning large horsepower gains down the road there is no need for ARP hardware in a stock configuration. OEM bolts will do the job well. Spending that much on high strength hardware on a stock engine is just throwing money into the wind.

 

[Denisefwd93]

I had to quote this just for the prolonged laugh. AARP bolts must be very, very old.


NOW, if you are referring to ARP bolts, Unless you were planning large horsepower gains down the road there is no need for ARP hardware in a stock configuration. OEM bolts will do the job well. Spending that much on high strength hardware on a stock engine is just throwing money into the wind.

OMG I did typo that !

I just don't like using used in concealed locations like flywheels

Looks like the newer T-case has to be sold off. no speedometer location.