A4LD popping out of gear

[99RangerKrazy]

1992 Ranger, 2.9L, auto A4LD, 4WD.

It shifts into second, but once it gets shifted and if I give the slightest too much gas, it pops right out and back into first. This will also happen if I happen to make it to third gear, when it shifts, if I give it too much gas, it pops out and back into first (hello 5k rpms!). Anyone know what I should check?

I've been having issues with it and so far I've checked -

Vacuum leak (none, looking good)
Electrical connections (good)
Vacuum modulator (not leaking any fluid at all, assuming it's good)
Changed tranny fluid and filter

Thanks everyone

 

[cocoasranger]

You may want to check your transmission gear selector cable which runs from the steering column to the trans selector lever located on the driver's side of the trans. Look closely at the plastic cable bracket attached to the metal support arm; they tend to snap and allow the cable to move without fully shifting the trans.

Also check the cable alignment procedure in the Chilton manual.

 

[Bent Bolt]

What happens if you drive it in D ( not OD ) ?? If thats ok, I'd suspect that the O/D one way clutch is failing.

 

[bootleg]

i'd also check the kickdown rod (crap--does an a4ld have one!?)...it could be sticking or it's spring might be missing.

 

[2manyfords]

They have a kick down cable which is adjustable where it goes through the firewall. It might be miss adjusted. The foot feed shouldn't contact it until it's just about full throttle.

 

[99RangerKrazy]

It does the same thing if it's in O/D or not. It still pops out of gear.

But how would I go about checking the kickdown cable? It's on the driver's side of the tranny?

And for checking the gear selector, my dad watched the cable while I shifted into reverse, neutral, drive, etc., and he said there's a definte "click" like it's shifting.

 

[bootleg]

the kickdown cable should run from the accelerator pedal through the firewall to the driver's side transmission (at the shift selector).

once you've located the cable, i would disconnect it at one end and then drive test to see if you have the same problem. if you don't, then the cable needs adjusting (at the pedal).

as 2many stated, the feed should not contact the cable until almost full throttle, and i'm guessing its misadjusted, causing your transmission to downshift at even the slightest acceleration.

 

[99RangerKrazy]

Ok so I disconnected that cable at the transmission, and took it for a test drive. Still does the same thing. Shifts to second, and when you give it gas, it pops back into first. So...crap. What else should I try?

 

[bootleg]

wow...sorry, i really thought (hoping, even) that was it. back to the drawing board. well, i suppose it could still be. it's possible that even though you've disconnected the kickdown, the valve is stuck open or partially open. other than that, i don't know.

the only other thing i can think of is to remove and vacuum test the modulator valve. you've stated you assumed it's good, but are you certain? a modulator valve doesn"t really cost that much it all...and just because it's not leaking, doesn't mean it might not also be sticking...but i'm not 100% sure that'd cause your trans to continually downshift.

 

[Bruce]

Make sure you have vacuum at the modulator..i have seen the port that the hose hooks too at the intake plug up thus restricting vacuum flow or no flow at all..best bet would be hook a vacuum gauge to the line at the modulator and see what it reads..should show full vacuum at idle and when you accelerate vacumm declines.

 

[99RangerKrazy]

I just wanted to thank all of you guys for helping me with this. I did go ahead and replace the vacuum modulator, since it was only $10. And now she shifts like a champ. Thank you all, much appreciated.