A question that won't stop nagging....

[James86]

I've read around about how when people want more power from a 3.0, generally speaking the replies are usually "swap to a 4.0," etc. However, it would seem there are some merits to keeping the 3.0 such as:
-Reputation for long life (300,000+ miles)
-Flex Fuel capability (E-85 is $1.79/gal down the street)
-Fuel economy (me and my friend have 3.0's and can each hit about 24 mpg on gas)

For those of us (like me) who live in apartment buildings and our Rangers are our daily drivers, we may not have time or the facilities to do anything that major or costly at once. So I guess my question is, how much have you guys stuck into your engine swaps all said? From what I've seen at junkyards and such around here, before even figuring in a rebuild or anything, your looking at at least 600 just for an engine and tranny, not to mention how long the vehicle was off the road until you had it running reliably enough to commute to work. Basically I'm trying to balance logically if it easier/cheaper in cases like mine in the long run to do little things here and there like an intake kit, better exhaust, better ignition system and what not, or just pull the trigger and be out a vehicle for a while when doing a swap.

 

[Rearanger]

For those of us (like me) who live in apartment buildings and our Rangers are our daily drivers, Basically I'm trying to balance logically

Keep it stock then and save your money. The add on's you've listed won't give any power increase. Why do you need more power?

-Flex Fuel capability (E-85 is $1.79/gal down the street)

Flex fuel will give less power and less mileage. At 10% ethanol I get a minimum of 10% less mileage.

 

[James86]

Well, for starters, that doesnt really answer my question..... I was more curious to see how much people spend -time and moneywise- on 4.0 swaps. Also, as for my intake kit and the increase from 2" to 2.5" exhaust with a flowmaster did a HUGE improvement on my acceleration and throttle response overall, which is very noticeable when passing. And as for gas mileage, if I get 24mpg on $2.49/gal gas (this morning's price), it averages to 10.4 cents a mile, versus 9.9 cents per mile if I get 18mpg on E-85 @ $1.79/gal., and thats figuring a 5mpg/20% drop. Its usually within a nickel of that in a 15mi radius, and there are 3 or 4 stations with E-85, hence my constant sue of E-85 - its slightly cheaper, and with a ton of city driving, I don't really notice more than a 3 or 4 MPG drop in town. On the highway I've gotten 19mpg joggin down to Rochester (150miles). It's all in how much you use that skinny pedal .

So anywho...... anybody care to tell of their adventures in 4.0 swapping?

 

[Gotta_gofast]

I've owned a 3.0 4x4. I put a lot of cash toward that truck. As for the engine- I installed 1.7:1 roller rocker arms, JBA headers, exhaust, MAC intake, BBK throttle body, ported/polished intake manifold, electric fan, and underdrive pullies, 4.10 gears. It did help some.

Then, one day I seen a 2005 4.0L equipped 4x4 with LOW miles sitting at the dealer with a huge sale tag on it. Out of curiousity I take it for a test drive. The 4.0L in that made me sad. I wasn't sad because it lacked in power. I was upset that I put so much into the 3.0L and it was still a DOG compared to the new truck. So later that day I came home with a new truck! Trust me, keep that 3.0 stock. Get behind the wheel of a 4.0L and you'll see what members are talking about.

I won't be much help to your engine swap. If you decide a 302 is in order, then I can help.

 

[James86]

A 302 eh? lol. I could always consider that.... but how much does it cost? Just ballpark figure...

 

[Jspafford]

Most people you will find don't get anywhere near 24mpg with a 3L.

They usually compare close to the 4L unless it's in a 2WD truck. If your getting a 4WD, get the 4cyl (not made anymore) or the 4L.

 

[JP02XLT]

My Father has an 07 4.0 2wd Ex-cab, It gets almost identical mileage for in town driving as my 3.0, 17-19 mpg. Power wise compared to a bolt on modified 3.0 the 4.0 will eat it alive, If you want killer power from a 3.0 it needs to be SC or turbo'd & you need to replace some internal engine parts to make it live long on anything above 10 psi. Now a 3.0 with some serious head work, internals & say 18-20 psi of boost & you can walk a 4.0 like there is nothing too it, maybe even throw in a few bolt on modded v-8 mustangs just for fun. But bolt on's will not make a 3.0 into a killer.

JP02XLT

 

[Gotta_gofast]

A 302 eh? lol. I could always consider that.... but how much does it cost? Just ballpark figure...

My v8 swap took a year to install and work the bugs out. I have 5K in the engine, 2K in trans/rear end, $700ish in other stuff to fit the engine in the truck. There's more, but as far as the swap is concerned this is roughly what I got in it. Is it cheap? No. Is it done right? Yes. Is it fun to drive? YES. Does it give me a hard-on when I drive it?

I suggest you pick up a second vehicle to drive and researching the subject extensively before you consider this swap though.

 

[Rearanger]

Most people you will find don't get anywhere near 24mpg with a 3L.

Yea, I have to question that number as well. I've never gotten close to 24mpg even on non-ethanol gas and a light foot. I've monitored my mpg over a long period and many fills. Best I've gotten is about 22, but my long term average is about 20mpg, including tanks with the 10% max ethanol mix. I used to get a choice with ethanol in the gas but no longer as BP has caved and withdrawn it non-ethanol regular.

 

[wvfarmboy]

My Father has an 07 4.0 2wd Ex-cab, It gets almost identical mileage for in town driving as my 3.0, 17-19 mpg. Power wise compared to a bolt on modified 3.0 the 4.0 will eat it alive, If you want killer power from a 3.0 it needs to be SC or turbo'd & you need to replace some internal engine parts to make it live long on anything above 10 psi. Now a 3.0 with some serious head work, internals & say 18-20 psi of boost & you can walk a 4.0 like there is nothing too it, maybe even throw in a few bolt on modded v-8 mustangs just for fun. But bolt on's will not make a 3.0 into a killer.

JP02XLT

your right 3.0 and 4,0 get verry close to the same gas millage only thing is the 4.o sure run goood but the newer 3.0s run better than the older ones so if i was you i wopulod be happy with the 3.0 an leave it at that

 

[Tader82]

here is a place to get parts for your 3.0l, and yes the addons help, i have the gibson headers and made my own intake and exhaust, ported the the heads and put 100lbs valve springs in the heads truck runs GREAT and if i can keep my foot off the floor i make about 27 on the high way and 20 in the city

 

[fivespeed3.0]

I've owned a 3.0 4x4. I put a lot of cash toward that truck. As for the engine- I installed 1.7:1 roller rocker arms, JBA headers, exhaust, MAC intake, BBK throttle body, ported/polished intake manifold, electric fan, and underdrive pullies, 4.10 gears. It did help some.

Then, one day I seen a 2005 4.0L equipped 4x4 with LOW miles sitting at the dealer with a huge sale tag on it. Out of curiousity I take it for a test drive. The 4.0L in that made me sad. I wasn't sad because it lacked in power. I was upset that I put so much into the 3.0L and it was still a DOG compared to the new truck. So later that day I came home with a new truck! Trust me, keep that 3.0 stock. Get behind the wheel of a 4.0L and you'll see what members are talking about.

I won't be much help to your engine swap. If you decide a 302 is in order, then I can help.

Where did you find a BBK Throttle body for the 3.0? I didn't think they made one for the 3.0, just the 4.0.

 

[James86]

Tader82, is your's a manual? I was just curious because I wish I got 27mpg with mine. At least its nice to know I'm not the only one with a 3.0 getting well above 20mpg. I drove my father in law's 3.0 1998 with a 5spd and it really only seemed about 200rpm lower at 60mph than mine with an auto. Also, I imagine it helps a little bit that with the vacuum hubs im not turning anything really for the front part of the 4x4 system when I'm driving along. The other thing is that I have a fiberglass topper that actually streamlines pretty well with the cab and my friend with his Ranger has the step side (which has fiberglass sides, not steel-I've seen them break before) and a tonneau cover. A lot of people may be on the fence about the aerodynamic effects of a tonneu or a topper, but even Ford put tonneus on the EV Rangers for aerodynamics. Plus, every vehicle is different too..... I have 106,000 miles, use synthetics and had my tranny flushed plus replaced EGR valve, EGR solenoid, DPFE sensor, plugs, wires, muffler, intake, etc. It's not a firebreathing monster and I don;t expect it to be, but I do try to keep it as efficient as I can. The price thing? I may have $500 in the intake, exhaust and tuneup, which is a tenth of what Gotta_gofast put into theirs, plus the 2K he mentioned for rear end and miscellaneous other things, and nothing I did took more than an afternoon to do. I'm not gloating just saying that I think a person can do some things here and there to make a 3.0 more responsive and feel like they got their money's worth. When you get down to it, yes, a 4.0 DOES have more HP and torque off the bat and yes it DOES have the peak torque at 2400rpm versus 3750rpm (for my year) but I really don't think anytime a person asks about doing things to their 3.0 they should be shouted down all the time. Unfortunately, not to knock anyone, but in the end, the original question of this thread was:

how much have you guys stuck into your engine swaps all said?

I see people ask about swaps in the forums and there are articles in the tech library about swaps but it's useful to hear of other people's experiences and what not. Thats all

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Where did you find a BBK Throttle body for the 3.0? I didn't think they made one for the 3.0, just the 4.0.

I used a 56mm throttle body from a 94-98 3.8L mustang. Bolts up to the 98-00 aluminum 3.0L manifold PERFECT. The only modification is that you must drill and tap two holes to properly mount the throttle position sensor (about 90 degrees from the original holes).

 

[Gotta_gofast]

James86: Believe me, I've wasted plenty of money on the 3.0L to know that its not worth the effort or money. Generally, as performance parts and "gofast goodies" are added, fuel economy will suffer.

Also, my engine swap was done how I wanted it to be. For instance, $1,400 was spent on a C4 that is rated for 800hp and a 3500rpm stall converter. Then $700 was spent on a limited slip unit and 4.56:1 gears. These are all "extras" that I've done. You could find a trans for $200 and use the stock axle. I built my engine with forged internals and the entire short block was blueprinted and balanced. Point is, a drivetrain swap is what you want it to be. As for your original post, you live in an apartment with no place to work besides a parking lot. Its not the place to be pulling an engine and fitting a new one. Best bet is to love your truck, or sell it.... The only worthwhile parts for the 3.0L are JBA headers, 1.7 roller rockers, gears, and a good 91-93 octane tune. But don't expect miracles.