A few questions

[Buggyman]

Sorry to keep posting so many questions.

I am about to put my 2000 3.0 flex fuel Vulcan back together. I pulled the heads and the machine shop is about finished, no cracks but the exhaust valves were trashed. Replacing the radiator, its full of sludge, along with most of the radiator hoses, they have 250k miles and they are full of crud. It has a new water pump, thermostat and I have cleaned all the coolent passages I can access on the lower intake. I am also replacing the synchro while its very accessible.


1. I replaced the syncro on my old motor about 6 years ago and I do not recall it being that hard. I have read all the articles but still had a few questions. Can I tell if my motor is TDC on the compression stroke with the heads off? Can I tell by which lifter is up? Ultimately, does it even mater if the motor is TDC if I align the notch that rotates with the vain of the syncro and mark this on the block and install the new synrco in the exact same alignment?

2. Instructions for Fel-Pro call for a small amount of RTV sealer on the lower intake manifold gaskets. What kind of RTV works the best and how much do you apply? Do you go completely around the gasket or just put a small amount on either side of the gasket? Do you use this also for the upper intake manifold and the valve covers?

3. Any advice on bolts for the exhaust manifold? I would like something that is less prone to rusting a breaking off in the future. Also any considerations when reinstalling the exhaust manifold gaskets?

Thanks for any advice,

Philip

 

[RonD]

If old Cam syncronizer is in place now then yes, just mark it and install new one with same base and rotor alignment.
I would rotate crank to TDC mark, doesn't matter if it is compression stroke or exhaust stoke since you are aligning with old unit, it is just for reference.
Remember the drive gear on syncro and cam are angled so rotor turns when removing it and turns when installing it.
After installing the new unit you may need to turn the crank a bit so oil pump shaft drive aligns and then syncro will drop down all the way.
NOW check the alignment of new rotor, after you turn crank back to TDC mark, that's why we did this .

I put RTV(blue) around the 4 water passages on the intake gasket, just on intake side of gasket, not head side, and then across the valley between heads.
Just a little.
And a dab in each corner where head, block and intake meet.

Nickle or copper anti-seize works well in high temp application, great for exhaust bolts and spark plugs.
anti-seize is NOT the opposite of loctite, lol.
anti-seize is used to prevent corrosion between threads, bolt still holds the same if torqued the same, like a high temp grease that lasts longer..
loctite bonds the threads together to prevent them from loosening, like a glue.

Nickle is rated 2400degF
Copper 1800degF

Shiny side goes out on exhaust gaskets, can be a PITA to install with engine in vehicle, try getting center bolt through gasket and into head to start, then one end or the other, get all blots started before tightening any.
You can use correct size screwdriver in one hole to align other hole or holes

 

[mikersoft]

3. Any advice on bolts for the exhaust manifold? I would like something that is less prone to rusting a breaking off in the future..

For the studs, I purchased these from amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-03411-Exhaust-Manifold-Stud/dp/B0063RHGFG/?tag=959media-20

I got the rest from boltdepot.com
Long ones:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=17752
Short ones:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=17746

-Mike

 

[RonD]

Be aware that studs can be better but do offer a bit of a problem

If you assemble an engine out of the vehicle, the studs seem like a great idea, for heads and for exhaust manifolds, and yes they can have better holding power.

Once engine is installed is when the "problem" can arise.
Trying to remove an exhaust manifold in the vehicle may no longer be possible, can't slide it off the studs, no clearance.
So hopefully enough thread is showing to double nut them to pull the studs.

Same can happen with head stubs.