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A/C won't work


fartman

New Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2011
Messages
1
Vehicle Year
96
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 96 Ranger with 2.3. The A/C has not worked in the year that I have owned it. So, I put a charge in it. I had to by pass the pressure switch to get the compressor to kick on then wnt on and started putting R 134 in it. At 1st 2 cans ( the small ones ) That din't do it! So, I got a big 180z can at NAPA. It sucks it right down. There are no leaks that I can see and even after the 180z can the gauge still reads 0 PSI. I used the stuff with red dye in it so if there is a leak it should be visable. The sticker near the engine says 2lb.'s. I find it hard to belive it STILL needs more. Any suggetstion??:shok:
 
IIRC, 2 lbs is 2 cans. I think you've over filled it.
 
Last edited:
You really need one of the gauges that reads high and low side pressure to diagnose it properly.

Like this:

8xjwRXptjPu2SwYo1HlysKxDjJtwinvcwTZ2NFSL090fZPRSqU1E1bmeW2WWM_2-4pV9M0yW7XQECpsnhxozeHnF2L9dE-lmYfdCpJxrEDlVE_wgyQPsc4Lgd5VfGHpWz12GWcbX6tkLJxJeu-Vu-Lt0IPtFUeFEOUwn5U3xunTzxluY5Q
 
it could be your actuator door is broken. if you only have heat and teh dial doesnt change it , your actuator is busted . Youtube it 1aauto has a nice detailed vid on it
 
2lb = 32 oz. 2 cans = 24 oz., assuming you're using the "hand grenades". These are the cans that don't come with cheater hoses already attached and are about 4 inches tall. Does the gauge you're using register pressure while you are charging? If not, I'd question the gauge. You should see the gauge register anywhere between 60-90 psi while gas is flowing through the hose. At any rate, a set of manifold gauges would be ideal in this situation as you will be able to read both low and high pressures. This will give you a clearer picture of what's going on. If you still get no pressure, you've got a massive leak you haven't found yet. We're talking garden hose as opposed to hypodermic.
 
Strange but that's waaaay too much refrigerant. I just fixed mine this weekend same year and engine, and the leak was the high side port. Replaced it and bam! problem fixed. The replacement valve is like 6 bucks at any local parts store, just don't get a repair kit or universal kit the rangers don't use the kind with replaceable cores! Anyways run the a/c and pour water over the high and low side ports to see is there's a leak at the actual valve. Also is the compressor clutch engaging at all? Are the A/c lines cold? Hot?
 
Also 2 cans was plenty for my system!
 
If you have to add refrigerant ( R-134a in this case ) then you have a leak.
All A/C- Refrigeration-HVAC systems are closed circuits.
The common places to look on the RBV are the compressor seals, and the fitting seals.
If you just add R-134a to a depleted (empty) system and try to run it with out having the system into a vacuum before adding the R-134a, you will be limiting the life of you system to a very very short life.
 
I concur with Northern. Without a proper vacuum, even if the system works it will not be operating at peak efficiency. Air will usually result in higher than normal head pressures. Also, moisture in the system can chemically react over time and deteriorate the insides of the system.
 

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